Hello everyone..

I have a 72 Explorer with a 360 and C-6. It has been sitting for over 5 years now, I have been living out of state and Dad didnt start it regularly like he said he would. I am now moving back to the area and want to get it going again. I was in last Thanksgiving and had the carb rebuilt, but was not able to get it started. In the last week, I have replaced the fuel filter and ran most of the old gas out of the line and replaced the points and condenser. Still no luck, even with a fully charged battery, until I started playing with the points. I adjusted them, and it started right up. I had it to where it was idleing by itself and everything! I tried to move it and it died a few times, but started right back up. Now, its dead again and no luck. When its cranked, it goes real slow like the battery is low, but the charger says the battery has a full charge. Ive tried adjusting the points several times but no luck. (I know there is a certain gap they are supposed to be set at, maybe thats the main problem). And, the few times it died, it cranked real slow but did turn over.

What should be my next step? Seems to me that there is something not adjusted right, since the old motor cranks so slow even with a fully charged battery. Keep in mind I dont want it running to start driving her again right away, I am just trying to get it to where I can get it up on a trailer and take it to my new place. If I can get it over there, I will have the time and ability to go through and replace all fluids, do a proper tune up, etc...

Thanks for the advice!

 

Welcome to FTE!
If the engine is cranking really slowly on a full battery, you may want to have the starter checked at an auto parts store, and replace the cables. If the starter is drawing too much current, then it is possible that there isn't enough juice left over for spark to make it run. Another thing to look at is if the spark is too far advanced, then it can cause the engine to drag against the starter. You can check for this by disconnecting the power to the coil, and try cranking it. If it cranks quickly, then turn the timing back down a little bit until it will start, then set it at ~8º BTDC with the vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged.

 

Thanks for the welcome!

I was thinking about the starter...I went out and bought a new solonoid and voltage regulator, figured they were cheap and it wouldnt hurt to replace. It started right up and seemed for a while everything was better. I was able to stop and restart it several times. But, if I let it sit for more than 15-20 min, it does the slow crank thing again and at that point it may or may not start.

I will check the timing on it like you said by disconnecting the coil and trying it. To turn the timing down, I would have to turn the distributor right? Which direction will turn it down? I will try that first, I have replaced many a starter on that truck, not my favorite job. Is it possible that the starter will draw too much even with a new solonoid?

 

id have to double check the book but your point gap is 18 thousands. clock wise retards your timing counter clock wise advances it

 

i'd have to say the starter is weak..have you moves the distributer at all? a starter is probably only about $45 at the most

 

Stupid question time... you said a fully charged battery... is this the battery that has been sitting in this thing for the last 5 years? It may have depleted. Don't run out and buy a new one right away, but throw a digital voltmeter on it and see how much it collapses. I had a weak battery sting me on the '77 MG that I am currently working on... it rolled the starter over very slow, but the ignition system could not get enough juice to do the job. If worse comes to worse, take the battery out of YOUR DAD'S CAR (who promised to run it for you regularly) and try it with that, LOL. Let me know how you make out!

 

DITTO on the battery.

 

thanks for the advice.....i did think of the battery, i took the one out my crown vic and tried it with the same results. Put the old batter in the vic and it started right up.

i am out of town now, but will try the coil thing next time!

 

it probally the starter but check your cables may be corroded or frayed or block ground may be rusted but does sound like a starter

 

finally broke down today and crawled underneath and took off the starter. lord knows ive done that enough, so it was actually out in less than 5 min..lol...

took it to the shop and had it tested, and sure enough, the bushings were bad so the brushes were spinning crooked inside the thing. He had it redone in 10 min, charged me 20 bucks (for the rebuild and a new housing end) and i was on my way....

the old thing turns over a lot faster now, and i am more confident that i can get it off the trailer, so it got loaded up tonight, and will go with me to my new place tomorrow. going to be in a nice garage so i can get it running right again. cant wait!

(although i couldnt resist the urge to drive it around town a little today....smoking and sans insurance, but what you going to do??)

thanks for the advice, this is a great site!

 

cool look forward to see the progress

 

Thread Ressurection!

Hey there....made it to OKC, and have a question. I took the truck in (well, had it towed after it finally gave out completely) for some work. Among other things, they replaced almost the entire fuel system...lines, fuel pump, and accelrator pump. They also did a tune up including plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser. They told me I needed a new carb, but I wasnt going to pay for that since Ive done it before. I couldnt even get it home....idled ok, but died as soon as I touched the gas pedal. I just put in a new carb and fuel filter, and still the same problem! I can start it and it idles, and if I baby it while parked I can rev it up pretty good, but pulled out of the driveway and started down the road and trouble. Almost didnt get it back to the house...only made it a block or so down the road. Got it back to the driveway, and it idles great and can rev it up pretty good, but only in park or neutral. With a new fuel and ignition system, what else is there to replace? Can that carb be out of adjustment from the factory? I had to turn up the choke to get it to start, but then turned it down some before I drove it. Think that is the problem? Would dialing it more lean help? The last time I replaced the carb, the truck ran like a bat out of hell!

 

check your adjusments on the carb but also check te timing chain also check your vacuum hoses and manifold for leaks as well may also do a compression check as well to see if you have a ring stuck after sitting for so long

 

I have to jump in here to let you know about something trivial.

Sometimes on these old trucks the ignition wiring sustains cracking and become brittle causing the strands to faulter. I suggest to inspect all the wiring to the distributor in close detail to verify is is all good.

What happens is any major movement in the engine or truck causes the wire to Lose contact ...then when trying to start..it regains contact ..only to become loose again.

There have been over 20 people this last year in the 73-79 forum that have had this problem figuring it out after spending $$$$$$$ on parts.

 

I checked all the wires to the distributor, they all look good. I actually put that distributor on less than 5K miles ago. I adjusted the linkage to the other hole on the accelerator pump, but no luck. I want to advance the timing some, but cant turn the distributor at all! Im wondering if the shop even adjusted the timing on it, surely if they had, I could turn the distributor easily. I will try again tonight.....I also want to look inside the carb and see how much fuel squirts when the throttle is opened. I was doing some searching on this forum, and it seems like there have been lots of problems with auto parts store rebuilt carbs.