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I got my gauges in today and took it for a run to the store and here is the results.
At WOT tranny temps never got over 150 deg, boost was reading @ 15psi, the pyro got up to 1120. The EGT kinda concerns me, I have the Kwik filter and MBRP 4" exhaust, tranny cooler, but the ECM is stock, I thought the EGT #'s would have been a little lower. Just think what temps I was running prior to the exhaust. My DP F5 should be here any day, I got the 60 tow, 80 econo and 120 race. If i'm already hitting 1120 deg. on stock tune, whats the 120hp tune going to do to EGT's???
Pyro probe is in the drivers side manifold.
Are these #'s normal?
Your boost is a little low for stock WOT - and the EGT's might be a tad high... I'd be checking out all your IC boots for leaks. Low boost would hurt your EGT's cause you're not flowing as much air as you should be...
I went out and checked all IC boots, all were snug, put a few more turns on each just to make sure. Also, not sure if it matters but I have the Garret turbo. Also, when I hit 1120 on the pyro, I let off the gas and EGT's immediatly dropped to about 720.
Anything else I should check out?
What kind of boost #'s should I get out of stock?
i believe the high EGT and low boost have a correlation: the wastegate. you may have a weak diaphragm or spring inside the canister, which is letting the wastegate fall open too soon. try removing the red line that goes into a rubber elbow that goes into a gold canister that is at 1 o clock in relation to the intake pipe of the turbo. plug the elbow on one of the intercooler boot clamp bolts. go for a test drive and see what happens.
I think you are OK, a tad high on the egt and a bit low on the boost. It's hard to watch everything at once and that boost needle moves quickly. 1120 is not dangerous especially if you're really pouring on the coals. The stock fuel system can get it up there.
I don't think you will have much of a problem with the DP chip as from all I've heard, those folks know what they are doing and you still have some leeway, especially for a short romp on it. I can get mine to 1000 real easy if I want too and that's even in the lower settings on my TS. The higher ones just get there a bit quicker but then level off.
I was not aware that my gauge saves the max recording, (BD X-monitor) pretty neat feature. So on the first run EGT's were 1120 and boost was 17.0
I pulled the red line off gold thing like strokin said to do and put it on the end of bolt.
I'm guessing that this disables the wastegate?
Took it for a run with red wire off and EGT's only got to 1013 and boost hit 21.5
So what is the verdict? Whats broke and where is it located?
Can I continue to run it with the red wire off or will this cause problems?
Thanks for all your help!
no it will not cause problems, as long as you run the truck "unprogrammed with a stock tune". i think that your canister may have a weak diaphragm in it. you can remove the canister and tighten up the turnbuckle, making the rod shorter in overall length, thus increasing pressure on the wastegate to hold it closed longer. now with the wastegate unplugged, it will stay closed until drive pressure (exhaust pressure) can overcome the spring pressure holding the valve closed.
if you want a new wastegate canister i have one i took off that works fine, it's already turned in and will go right on.
With the stock turbo like you and I have I don't recommend completly disabling the wastegate like that. What I did was get a pressure guage and install it on a tee fitting with a hose going to the canister. I then adjusted the control rod so that it will begin to open the wastegate at 10-12 psi. Ford specs are 5 psi. The reconnect everything as per factory design. I still get plenty of boost - quickly spooling up at lower rpm and up to 26 psi when pulling a hill. The engine revs a lot more freely above 2500 rpm as well. You can tell the difference when getting on the freeway.
Just so i'm clear on what the problem is. Is it the gold canister that is bad or the spring or both or something else. I was doing a search on wastegates and noticed that some say to disable some say do not, some say adjust rod, some dont adjust.
I have also seen on a sponsers sight, they sell a canister that allows the turbo to make more psi than stock, is a "aftermarket canister the same as adjusting the rod?
My dp chip should be here mon. or tues. so I want to do whatever is safest for the turbo and motor.
Should I replace the canister and adjust the rod or just adjust the rod? Should I get an aftermarket canister and adjust the rod or leave the rod stock.
Kwik, were you measuring the psi on the canister with the engine off? Not real sure on how all that works.
I just put my guages in too, runnin about 150 tranny, 20 boost max, and 10k max egt. All stock. Once my dp comes in the mail on thursday, whats the max boost i should run? (I already know the redline on the pyro)
I got my gauges in today and took it for a run to the store and here is the results.
At WOT tranny temps never got over 150 deg, boost was reading @ 15psi, the pyro got up to 1120. The EGT kinda concerns me, I have the Kwik filter and MBRP 4" exhaust, tranny cooler, but the ECM is stock, I thought the EGT #'s would have been a little lower. Just think what temps I was running prior to the exhaust. My DP F5 should be here any day, I got the 60 tow, 80 econo and 120 race. If i'm already hitting 1120 deg. on stock tune, whats the 120hp tune going to do to EGT's???
Pyro probe is in the drivers side manifold.
Are these #'s normal?
Your gonna love the chip, but you will see the EGT's climb at a much faster rate in the 120 hp setting. No problem, and welcome to the world of one mod leading to another. Check out: