cooling/system-tem gauge help
<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1>


<HR style="COLOR: #666666" SIZE=1>OK you flat hed gurus,im new to the flathed scene,i have a 53 239,that had an over [font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif][font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]heating[/font][/font] problm,i flushed rad and coolingsystem and installed 160 degree [font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif][font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]thermostats[/font][/font],my temp gauge reads just past half way to 3/4 -so far hasnt gone all the way to hot,[font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif][font=verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif]truck[/font][/font] is not "bulbling over -or seem to be over heating,maybe afaulty temp sender?? whre should gauge read??

 

OKlet me try this again,my 53 239 flat head had over heating issues,replaced all hoses,installed 160degree thermostats,flush radiator and ehgine,temp gauge reads between half and 3/4 hasnt gone all the wat to hot but has gone to 3/4
truck does not seem to be over heating,and noo coolant is bubbling out-where shold gauge read??

 

Hey HOTROCKSURFR -

If their a chunz that yu cud prufreed ur posts? Maybe id we unterstud it, wecud help.

 

Don't mind Randy Jack, he drives new stuff. OHV engines are just another fad that'll soon pass along. Flatheads forever!

Here's a copy of what I posted in the flathead forum:

Welcome to flathead insanity - you'll get hooked if you're not careful.

The stock gauges are notoriously innacurate. They give you a general indication of where your temp is relative to your truck. Mine runs just above 3/4 normally and bumps about halfway between 3/4 and H when I push it hard or climb a mountain pass here.

You should run a 180 T-stat. 160 won't let the engine get warm enough to evaporate the contaminants in the oil and causes sludge buildup and increased wear in the engine.

Keep the coolant level about 2" below the top of the rad neck - it needs some room to expand. It'll puke the extra out the overflow tube until it reaches its own point of equilibrium.

If I read your note correctly, you don't have coolant loss or any other signs of overheating. Did you assume it was too hot just because of the gauge reading? If that's the case, put it back together and drive it! If the gauge ever pegs on the hot side, stop immediately and find out why. Otherwise I doubt it is too hot.

If you have access to an infrared temp sensor check the head, hoses and rad top tank for actual temps. Then you'll have a better picture of whats going on.

Hope some of this rambling helps. If not, ask away and we'll keep trying.

 

SORRY,I WAS POSTING AT WORK,AND WAS TRYING TO POST FAST!!! CAN ANY ONE HELP ME?? WITH MY OVER HEATING PROBLEM???

 

OK, OK, I HEAR YOU !!!

From your initial description, it seems the overheat problem might be handled, since you're not boiling over as before.

If your question is really about the gage being correct or not, try warming it up with the radiator cap off and inserting a thermometer into the radiator water. Compare that reading with the gage so you'll get an idea of what 3/4 on the gage means, etc. I use a meat thermometer with a probe. I just don't tell the "Old Lady" what I did with it.

 

I did what Randy Jack did, except I used a cheapo temp gauge from autozonedropping the bulb in the radiator. What I thought was overheating (ran almost to the H) was actually only 167 in the top of the radiator. Block would probably be a little warmer but not much. I did find when I took the temp gauge out (51 F1), you can adjust/calibrate the gauge with a small screwdriver through small holes in the back of the gauge.

Scott