97 expi won't remain started
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97 expi won't remain started
I have a 97 Expi, with just over 200k miles. My latest problem, is that I was getting into the vehicle to leave, I put my key into the ignition, and theft light continuously flashes, and the engine won't stay running. I realize that it is probably not reconzing my key, so as soon as I get the opportunity later today...I am gonna see if it the spare. If it doesn't, where do I need to start next? Has anyone out there ever
experienced this problem. My vehicle is currently stranded at a local shopping facility. I am hoping it is just my key!!!
experienced this problem. My vehicle is currently stranded at a local shopping facility. I am hoping it is just my key!!!
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Missouri
From what I understand, it sounds like it wants to start, but dies immediately? It sounds like a bad fuel pump to me.
Here's a test. If it works, it means it's definitely a bad fuel pump, but if it doesn't, don't rule it out.
Put the key in the ignition and cycle the key 5-6 times between off and on, without trying to start it.
Once you've cycled the key a few times, try and start it. If you get a second or two of running, it is definitely a bad fuel pump. Turning the key to on pressurizes the fuel system. Doing it repeatedly builds more pressure in the fuel system, which you wouldn't need if you had a good pump. It's like pumping the gas pedal with a carb under the hood. Try it out, let us know what happens.
Here's a test. If it works, it means it's definitely a bad fuel pump, but if it doesn't, don't rule it out.
Put the key in the ignition and cycle the key 5-6 times between off and on, without trying to start it.
Once you've cycled the key a few times, try and start it. If you get a second or two of running, it is definitely a bad fuel pump. Turning the key to on pressurizes the fuel system. Doing it repeatedly builds more pressure in the fuel system, which you wouldn't need if you had a good pump. It's like pumping the gas pedal with a carb under the hood. Try it out, let us know what happens.
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Thanks for all your input and suggestions. After I posted yesterday, I let the expi sit for a while, and then I went back and was gonna try starting it with my spare key, instead I thought that I would try it with my key, just for the heck of it....guess what..It Started, and hasn't given a minutes trouble since. But I think there is still a problem, though.. I talked to a guy last night, who is a manager of an O'Rielly's Auto Parts, he said that there is a little sensor in the ignition that reads the key, and it is probably wearing out.. this does make since to me, because the vehicle is almost 10 years old. Is there anyway to disconnect the anti theft system? Thanks again, everyone!!!!!!!!!!
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If the sensor was wearing out, why isn't the same problem cropping up while you're using the spare key? The sensor should be giving trouble regardless of which key is in the ignition. I would drive with the spare key for awhile. If the problem is gone, I would lean towards replacing the first key.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: north carolina
If you have two working keys, you can program a third yourself, and save the ridiculous cost for programming at the dealer. And, if you do a search on EBAY, you can find the blanks for about $10, along with the instructions for how to program. Just take the blank and one of your original keys and have it cut. Then, follow the instructions to program the new one. Don't remember the exact sequence for programming, but its pretty simple.
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I have a 2000 Epedition with a bad IAC valve. The car starts only if I have my foot on the gas once I release it the car dies. However once the car is warm it works just fine. It only fails me in the morning during cold starts. I would like to try and repair it myself would anyone recommend it? Has anyone ever repaired an Idle Air control valve on an Eddie Bauer Ford Expedition 5.4 engine?
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From: Pullman Washington
Originally Posted by monopoly
I have a 2000 Epedition with a bad IAC valve. The car starts only if I have my foot on the gas once I release it the car dies. However once the car is warm it works just fine. It only fails me in the morning during cold starts. I would like to try and repair it myself would anyone recommend it? Has anyone ever repaired an Idle Air control valve on an Eddie Bauer Ford Expedition 5.4 engine?
Brad
Tuned
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From: north carolina
Monopoly
Symptoms suggest IAC, but check the codes first just in case some other symptom has been flagged by the PCM.
If indeed it is your IAC, check out this thread, which gives you a picture of where to look on the 5.4 Triton:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...t=iac+pictures
This is a simple part swap-out, but you can also try cleaning your old one before replacing. I have done this a few times by cleaning with SeaFoam and a old toothbrush to remove carbon build up and sticking of the valve. The Haynes manual also gives you an electrical test procedure for the IAC to make sure the circuit is still functional. Can't remember the ohms resistance target off the top of my head.
Hope this helps you.
Symptoms suggest IAC, but check the codes first just in case some other symptom has been flagged by the PCM.
If indeed it is your IAC, check out this thread, which gives you a picture of where to look on the 5.4 Triton:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...t=iac+pictures
This is a simple part swap-out, but you can also try cleaning your old one before replacing. I have done this a few times by cleaning with SeaFoam and a old toothbrush to remove carbon build up and sticking of the valve. The Haynes manual also gives you an electrical test procedure for the IAC to make sure the circuit is still functional. Can't remember the ohms resistance target off the top of my head.
Hope this helps you.
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