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My sheet metal supplier does only sheet metal, not moldings. I get molding from another source.
Question: Do they have their own factory or are they farming it out?
Case in point, the company that "produces" the sheet metal for the big 53-56 big window kit doesn't actually produce them... another company, one that actually specializes in Chevy sheet metal, does the actual manufacturing.
Good answer, I guess 20 years ago when some of these older players got into the game, we were so glad to get parts, we didn't care who's basement they were made in. Ken if you had a rad. support for a 66 and you made it 20 miles up the road, I'd surely look at buying yours, because I need one. Asking where you made it wouldn't cross my mind.
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
Great news on the floor pans! I have pondered that interchange myself, since a 1967 carpet kit was an exact fit for my '66 but I never took the time to measure. Too bad the radiator support panel won't interchange with others!
Your truck's even rustier than mine! That new floorpan looks really nice. What tools did you use to form the bends and curves? I just have a bench vise and a BFH so I may have to wait for Carolina Classics to come out with the complete pan...
I am new to this group. I followed earlier the email lists. More of me and my vehicles You will find www.dlc.fi/~teros .
There is some floorpans for 61-66 trucks listed in Spectrum Rubbers website www.spectrumrubber.com.au in Australia. I don't know do these fit to 61-64 trucks.
Yes the truck is very rusted and is a challenge. It originally was just suppose to be a parts truck for my '66 because the bed is fine. I found a bed for the '66 that was in great shape. Somehow the '63 became a restoration project. Funny how these trucks grow on you.
I ran the sheet metal through a beader using two beader mandrels to tip the metal defining the bowl outline. I then used a rounded mallet and shot bag to bowl it out. For the bend I used a sheet metal brake doing multiple small bends. On each of the bends I spaced the bends more on the outside edge than the inside since I didn't believe that the radius on the outside was as tight as the inside. This was speculation on my part since everything was rusted away I could only guess. The brake leaves definite bend marks rather that a smooth curve so I layed the piece on the bench like a V and hammered along the bend with the rounded mallet. This smoothed it out and didn't take much of the bend out. By hand I could restore the proper angle. Poor mans slip roll. I still need a little more work on the right side. The piece should have a 90 degree edge to it on the left where it spot welds to the body and kick panel. I made that as a separate piece last weekend using a shrinker and stretcher. I've spent about 5 hours so far and I think it will take at least another 4 hours to cut the old out, fit this piece properly and weld it in. I butt weld stuff in so it takes me a long time to fit the pieces in. I still have to make the circular indentation for the cab mount.
For the bend you might do it this way: Lay the sheet metal flat on your bench with it overhanging the edge. Take a pipe or round bar stock, lay it over the sheet and clamp the pipe to your bench close to the edge. Back the overhanging part of the sheet metal on the bottom side with some stiff angle iron and use it to bend the sheet metal around the pipe. Just make some cardboard profiles of the original bend and then futts with it until it matches. I think you would be suprised at how close you can get it to the original. I was going to do it this way but didn't have a pipe handy. If you don't have to make the bowl shape, the outside edge and any of the beads you can make a cheap replacement piece. Fitting and welding in the new piece is more difficult and you have to do this if you could buy replacement sheet metal. You could also flange the edge of your new piece and flange weld it in. Much easier.
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