Timing timing timing

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Old 08-27-2006, 11:11 AM
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Timing timing timing

hows everybody doing

I just got done rebuilding my 89 302 new bearing gaskets timing chain to be exact put the motor in wont start i have spark compression when i put the timing chain on i had the two dots lined up. when you put the timing chain in should i have # 1 piston set at TDC ? If someone can please tell me step by step how to set the timing and also the rotor is pointing at #1 piston.

Thanks
Tom
 

Last edited by 1980F1; 08-27-2006 at 11:22 AM.
  #2  
Old 08-27-2006, 11:26 AM
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Sounds like your doing it more or less right. Yes, the #1 should be set to TDC. I make sure it's exact TDC before putting on the head and leave it there. The crank sprocket and cam sproket are keyed, so unless it has multiple slots you can't get it too far off if the dots are lined up.

Sometimes you need to try moving the dizzy around a bit to get it close enough to fire up. With number 1 at TDC, point the rotor at the number one wire terminal, or slightly ahead. It could be off one tooth and not fire. Once you get it to fire up and stay running, you can time it with a timing light. What about the fuel system?

It's probably something simple. My brother had trouble starting up a 351 recently but it turned out that wires were just put on in the wrong firing order.
 

Last edited by P51D Mustang; 08-27-2006 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 08-27-2006, 02:50 PM
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what about being 180 degrees off? you could have #1 tdc on exhaust stroke- not sure if or how that applies but i make sure the intake on #1 opens and closes right prior to tdc so that i know i'm on the compression stroke.

probably not relevant but...
 
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Old 08-28-2006, 08:18 PM
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Yes, it's only relevent if the cam is involved; the rotating assmebly itself doesn't know the difference between the compression and exhaust strokes.

As P51D mentioned, check the firing order and if the dist. has been stabbed properly.
 
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Old 08-29-2006, 04:54 PM
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well i just got the motor running but not very good when i goose it it is back fireing thru the carb

now i was told it is an 89 302 but when i bought a cap and rotor for it didnt match it matched to a 82 302 so i think im in a hole new ball game now

on the heads i seen TG13 TG14< what would this be i found this number in between #2 and #3 is this the identification number if not where can i find it at

also on the rockers there are letters on them ABCD does those mean anything

When i first got the truck he had the vacum line from the distributor to the carb is that the correct spot for it

when the truck idels it dont back fire put it in gear try to drive it back fires and dies out

the rocker arms are the non adjustable or do they have to be adjusted to a certain specification for a 82 302

thanks
Tom
 

Last edited by 1980F1; 08-29-2006 at 05:30 PM.
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Old 08-30-2006, 01:03 PM
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An 82 should also be non-adjustable. From 68 up through 1976 the 302 used adjustable rockers, but after 76 it's non-adjustable, at least in stock form.

Roller cam motors and flat tappet motors do use different length pushrods, and you must have the right ones for the application. Roller cam pushrod length is 6.27" Flat tappet pushrod length is 6.905". For 60's 289/302 with adjustable rockers for solid lifters it's 6.804".

If it's a 82 motor it should have flat tappets. The lifter and cam lobe break in to each other. If cam and lifters are ever re-used they must go always to the exact same cam lobe they broke in on. Otherwise you will have major problems. Some people also feel that the rocker and pushrod must remain in the same positions, and that rockers must also be used on the same valve stems. A new cam and lifter set should be broken in using a special procedure, with plenty of break in lube on the cam lobes before first start up.
 

Last edited by P51D Mustang; 08-30-2006 at 01:09 PM.
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Old 08-30-2006, 07:54 PM
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Thanks for everyones helps Not knowing what year or what kind of 302 it is turns out to be a H.O 302 and didnt know what firing order to use fireing order i used was 1, 3, 7, 2, 6, 5, 4, 8 i was useing the standard 302 fireing order which caused the back fireing and also vacum lines were not in the right place now it runs great but the knock is still there thinking cam bearings now but the knock it had before tear down was worse
this is how it all happen took the truck out friday night just crusing around town ran great and quiet pressure washed the motor saturday drove around no knocking running great parked it listened to the motor no knocking sunday morning woke up started the truck knocking like hell drain the oil water came out first then oil i dont know how water got in the motor checked it all out head gaskets were fine everything was fine im thinking someone was pissed because my truck was better and faster then there chevy and i only know 2 people with chevy trucks that i raced and killed them stock 302 vs stock 350s and i think you all know how pissed of chevy guys get

well thanks again for the help
i got to go destroy some chevys
 
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