I happen to have a 65 F100 but am going to try the post here since my year never came with a 360 engine. As is typical the 352 was swapped for a 360 years ago before I got the truck. Naturally the vacuum lines and the like were jury rigged at best and now I am trying to straighten them out. The biggest thing was that the pcv valve outlet had an ordinary breather in it. Got the gommet and valve but am trying to figure out where the line went to for a vacuum outlet. The spacer is one of those with an egr thingys out the back and with a little dogleg on the passenger side to cover an extra opening in the manifold. That means a regular 2bbl spacer won't work because of a big vacuum leak there. I am stumped as to where to hook up the hose so I jury rigged something myself using an old brake booster vacuum fitting attached to the brass vacuum fitting in the manifold. Still I wonder what is the correct way since I've never seen a mid 70's 360 engine...?

 

Some of the FE engines came with a spacer which had the nozzle for the PCV.
Many of the later ones came with the EGR valve on the back of the spacer instead, so most of those had the nozzle on the underside of the carb itself.

Your 360 should do fine without the EGR, so if you can find a spacer with the PCV nozzle, replace it and hook up you PCV that way. Don't overlook other engines; many of them had the same spacer on their intakes.

Maybe you can find an FE intake manifold without the EGR dogleg. Any FE intake will work - or consider an aftermaket one such as an Edelbrock. The cast iron original intakes weigh nearly 100 pounds so you have to be VERY careful! I did this on my '65's 390 out of a '76 F-150. I used the '65 intake on the '76 390 so that I could use the correct carb and spacer.

You can run the PCV valve directly off the intake manifold, but I would only do it out of absolute necessity and get a center feed (under the carb) for it right away. There are several reasons for this:

1. The PCV valve allows extra oxygen into the fuel supply system in the intake manifold. To ensure the mix is spread evenly an equally across all cylinders, the inlet for it is in the center, underneath the carb. (For the same reason, the EGR is in the center of the fuel supply.) An off-center inlet changes the mixture for that one or two cylinders, making them run lean, reducing mileage and causing misfires.

2. The one or two cyinders running lean may run too lean, resulting in engine damage such as burned valves, scorched pistons, detonation, burned spark plugs and pieces of engine floating around inside the cylinder.

3. The power brakes booster, if you have one, depends on a steady vacuum supply to work. When the PCV system is hooked up to it or to the same intake manifold nozzle, the PCV bleeds off the vacuum necessary for proper power braking.

None of these are good.

Good luck!

 

Am keeping my eye open for another carb spacer, but as you know that egr dog leg is a real pain in the buttocks on this manifold. In fact I don't think there is a spacer made with a dog leg but no provision for an egr valve. May have to deal with the manifold and all I can say about that!

 

Are we talking egr or pvc? PVC is positive crankcase ventilation, and is very simple. A hose goes from the PVC valve to the air cleaner (outside the filter but inside the can), putting a light suction through the valve. The idea is to draw the blowby and any pressure caused by warn rings back through the engine. If you place full vacuum there you will create a vacuum leak, and also suck oil into your intake manifold.

ERG is exhaust gas recirculation - and don't even go there. You don't need it, and the old systems did not work very well. Under the correct conditions it takes some exhaust gas and adds it to the incoming fuel/air mixture.

At best, when working correctly, it does not hurt you. If it gets carboned up it can cause a drastic drop in power and gas mileage, and is often the cause of rough idle. You will have a better engine if you remove it - but you do still need a spacer between the carb and the intake to keep the carb from boiling when you shut down. Use one off an older engine, and watch out for vacuum leaks.

 

I use the egr spacer as just that a spacer since it has the bulge to cover the dog leg at the carb mounting position. I took off the Autolite 2150 that was on the truck in bad shape and replaced it with a manula choke 2100 rebuilt by Pony Carb using a correct new thin gasket and new thick gasket just like under the 2150. So no problem there. Now after reading your post I have realized I have solved my problem except that it hasn't arrived yet. The air cleaner on the engine was a piece of crap with holes cut out all over it. So I temporarily put on a '68 289/302 spare I had. Then went looking on eBay for a correct FE air cleaner from the '70s. Found one but wondered what that fitting was on the right side of the air cleaner. That is the point of connection for the pcv hose that you just mentioned. I'm so used to seeing the connection through the carb spacer on older cars that this didn't dawn on me. Thanks, for helping me see what was right in front of my eyes.

 

WillyB; I must repectfully disagree with your description of how the positive crankcase ventilation valve is setup.

Quote: A hose goes from the PVC valve to the air cleaner (outside the filter but inside the can), putting a light suction through the valve. .... If you place full vacuum there you will create a vacuum leak, and also suck oil into your intake manifold. End quote.

If I understood your post correctly, then this is an incorrect description.

A hose does indeed go from the air cleaner as part of the PCV system, but is is not connected to the PCV valve.

The correct description is like this, with 2 PCV hoses:

1. One is connected to the PCV valve, which sits in the rear passenger side valve cover, with the other end connected to full manifold vacuum ( ideally, under the carburator).

2. The second hose is connected to the side of the air cleaner, just as you described. However, it goes to the top of the oil separator-oil fill cap, which is in the front driver's side valve cover.

Perhaps I misunderstood your post?

 

I have been wrong before and I will be again. I like the respectfully part, but the important thing is to correct the information before someone spends time and money doing something wrong.

I stand corrected, I looked it up in my shop manual and you are right - I don't know what I was thinking. I didn't have a system in front of me, I was going by memory and my memory is about as long as my nose. Getting old does not make you any smarter, just quicker to acknowledge when you are wrong.

Sorry for the mistake, and glad banjopicker pointed it out.

 

Oh well, back to square 1 as I sat here wondering that too. Well I disconnected the pcv valve since there is no place to connect it directly under the carb and the one fitting would favor #3 and #4 cylinders only. On the original 2150 the outlet is in the actual carb mounting base, drivers side back.

 

okay i have a question for tbm3fan if you have a 410 isnt that basically the same motor? why not set up the 360 like the 410??

 

The 410 is, of course, a 1967 motor versus my '72 360. The 360 has a slight dog leg next to the venturies that only gets covered up by the special egr spacer. If I kept the worn out 2150, with electric choke and solenoid, then I could attach the hose to the base like it was originally done. Instead I wanted a manual choke 2100 which I now have and works fantastic but without that fitting at the base. The only vacuum fitting in the manifold is right over the #3 & 4 runners which would skew the mixture as mentioned above. My 410 4bbl, with a 4300, has a standard carb spacer with the typical opening for the pcv hose in the back. In order to use a standard 2bbl spacer I would need an 2bbl intake manifold form a 60's era car in order to avoid the dog leg cutout.

 

What about this?

Take the EGR valve off the spacer. There will be two holes in it, one leading into the exhaust crossover passage below, and one for the intake.

Plug the exhaust hole with JB Weld or something similar. You could probably tap it for a threaded plug too. Be careful, though, with the tap. That aluminum is old and heat stressed; it breaks easily.

Tap the intake passage (in the EGR spacer) for a larger vacuum connection, screw in the nozzle and run the PCV from there.

You can use the doglegged spacer without a problem then.

 

Check on the rear of the intake manifold for the vacuum port.
You can buy metal vacuum tees which screw into manifold and will provide vacuum to PCV and future Brake Power Booster.

You can do away with the spacer and add a phenolic spacer. Then install the 2 barrel carb of choice.

 

i have a 360 that i just overhauled and bored 30, so pretty much stock. but what i did to solve the problem with the hole on the carb spacer was put a freeze pluge there just a screw in fitting with thread tape and got the all in one carb spacer, has the gaskets on both sides and is a 1/2" or more thick. and then ran the pvc on the passenger valve cover to the back of the carb and took out all the other egr so the intake is clean just left the heater hose and that was all.

 

The only vacuum outlet on my manifold is right over the junction of the #3 & 4 runners and that would mean the air/fuel ratio would change for those two cylinders. I have seen manifolds with the outlet directly behind the carb base which would split the gases among all 8 cylinders, but I don't have that.

As was mentioned, and I forgot to say, was the idea of a block off plate with an outlet for the pcv hose is what we came up with on the weekend. Will use the machine shop aboard the Hornet to fabricate the piece to fit. Although a second idea mentioned here could use a look see.