Cab repair.....
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Cab repair.....
I final have my truck in the garage and the only thing to remove is the cab.
Besides getting 3 strong fellas to help remove it, has anyone else removed theirs with little or no help?
I welded up a couple of "handles" to bolt where the bottom door hinges go and thay are pretty stout! I just need to figure out how to attach "lift-points" to the rear of the cab so I can set the cab on concrete blocks while I roll the chassis out into the driveway.
On a slightly different topic, has anyone found a way to roll the cab on its back without damaging it? I would feel more comfortable working on the floor pans in a vertical position rather than lay up under the cab to do it. I was thinking to use the rafters of the garage to lift and roll the cab since the weight wuld still be on the floor. Lifting the entire cab using the ceiling is out of the question cuz the wife has way too much stuff up there.
Besides getting 3 strong fellas to help remove it, has anyone else removed theirs with little or no help?
I welded up a couple of "handles" to bolt where the bottom door hinges go and thay are pretty stout! I just need to figure out how to attach "lift-points" to the rear of the cab so I can set the cab on concrete blocks while I roll the chassis out into the driveway.
On a slightly different topic, has anyone found a way to roll the cab on its back without damaging it? I would feel more comfortable working on the floor pans in a vertical position rather than lay up under the cab to do it. I was thinking to use the rafters of the garage to lift and roll the cab since the weight wuld still be on the floor. Lifting the entire cab using the ceiling is out of the question cuz the wife has way too much stuff up there.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,697
Likes: 46
From: Vancouver
Cab repair.....
I had three helpers and we found it pretty easy to move around, but I had the glass out and the doors off.
We flopped mine on its back onto inflated inner tubes to sandblast the bottom.
All of this is easier if you've stripped the cab bare. Good luck!
Eric D
We flopped mine on its back onto inflated inner tubes to sandblast the bottom.
All of this is easier if you've stripped the cab bare. Good luck!
Eric D
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Marietta, GA USA
Cab repair.....
I ran a tow strap under my empty cab and through the interior and then used a cherry picker inserted throught the door opening to lift the cab off the frame. I balanced the cab by using a small adjustable strap from the cherry picker chain to the rear of the cab floor but the majority of the weight was held by the tow strap.
I also used the Home Depot furniture dollies (2 at $25 each)to roll the cab around after getting if off the frame.
My floor wasn't bad so I never needed to put the cab on it's back. Innertubes sound like a good idea.
I also used the Home Depot furniture dollies (2 at $25 each)to roll the cab around after getting if off the frame.
My floor wasn't bad so I never needed to put the cab on it's back. Innertubes sound like a good idea.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 276
Likes: 0
Cab repair.....
I rolled the cab by myself using a come along to the rafters in my garage. Used a stap though the cab mounting holes to roll the front up. I rolled it onto a 3/4 inch sheet of plywood that had 4 casters. If you pick the right castes the top of the plywood will just fit under the cab between the rear cab corners and it will be self guiding. I put a moving blanket over the plywood. This was all done after it was painted.
To sand blast the bottom I originally used the same 4 casters and welded up brackets to attach them to the front cab mounts and the hood spring bolt holes. This way the sand would not collect on the lower cab corners. It also made it a nice height to work on to scrape the under coating off.
To sand blast the bottom I originally used the same 4 casters and welded up brackets to attach them to the front cab mounts and the hood spring bolt holes. This way the sand would not collect on the lower cab corners. It also made it a nice height to work on to scrape the under coating off.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Cab repair.....
Thanks Bill,
I didn't even think about going inside the cab with the hoist.
As per your suggestion, my friend and I removed it yesterday and it was pretty easy.
I bolted a chain to both of the lower door hinge mounts, then to the rear seat mount, making an "X" pattern. then I connected the chains together near the dash to balance the cab. My friend helped to balance and rotate the cab as I backed it off the frame. Once clear, we rolled the chassis into the driveway and set the cab down on blocks until I can mount my dollies tonight.
Now the easy part is over as it usually is in the disassembly stages. the hard part comes when I start putting it all together again.
I didn't even think about going inside the cab with the hoist.
As per your suggestion, my friend and I removed it yesterday and it was pretty easy.
I bolted a chain to both of the lower door hinge mounts, then to the rear seat mount, making an "X" pattern. then I connected the chains together near the dash to balance the cab. My friend helped to balance and rotate the cab as I backed it off the frame. Once clear, we rolled the chassis into the driveway and set the cab down on blocks until I can mount my dollies tonight.
Now the easy part is over as it usually is in the disassembly stages. the hard part comes when I start putting it all together again.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Cab repair.....
I tried to mount the cab on dollies today but realized I couldn't get under it!
A quick trip to the nearest Lowes and 50 bucks later, I fashioned a sturdy stand built of 4-2x4's and 4-$10 casters. The cab rolls easily and there is plenty of room to work on the front floor pans and cab mount braces from both sides.
A quick trip to the nearest Lowes and 50 bucks later, I fashioned a sturdy stand built of 4-2x4's and 4-$10 casters. The cab rolls easily and there is plenty of room to work on the front floor pans and cab mount braces from both sides.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 2
From: San Diego CA
Cab repair.....
My nieghbor has a 53 C$%*y he's working and he put his cab on a twin bed frame with a sheet of plywood. It works well but I don't know how it would hold up under a real truck cab 
.I've also used camper jacks to remove cabs and bodies they work well. Glad to haer about your pregress. Rich.
.I've also used camper jacks to remove cabs and bodies they work well. Glad to haer about your pregress. Rich.Trending Topics
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Texas
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