I have a 65 f100 with 352 and 3 speed. Trying to make sure everything is in working order before restoring. I have no history on this truck.
After changing the steering column I can now change gears, so I try to start it- here is what I have, Ignition coil, Cap, rotor, and condensor look brand new- rotor turns, but no spark anywhere. I cleaned electric connections, ground too. Triple checked the firing order, it was not right to start with. Would the next logical step be the distributer? ignition switch?
Thanks guys for all your help, I will start taking pictures soon, before, during, after of these projects.
1965 F100 LNB 352 3 on-the-tree amazingly close to original to be restored.
1966 F100 SNB to become a hot rod
Thanks again, OwenB

 

I'm sure you know that firing order is counter-clockwise on the distributor. Right? Just checking. Have you checked to make sure you have voltage to the positive side of your coil with the key on? Have you pulled the coil wire, and held it a half inch away from the distributor with a dry rag while someone cranks the engine over? This will quickly tell you if you have spark. Once you eliminate the firing order problem, and the spark problem, then you need to look elsewhere. Have you had the air cleaner off and pumped the carb linkage by hand? You would be able to see if the carbs getting gas this way. If not, pour a little bit in the carb. Of course you need compression in the mix to make it run, but I'm assuming you do. The only other thing it could be if everything else I mentioned checks out is timing. It has to fire at the correct time to run. I don't know what your skill level is, so if you know all of this, please forgive me. If you need to know how to check the timing on a non-running engine, post back to this board after you check everything else. Somebody will help you out.

 

Steve has hit all of ther points you need to check but I'm going to simplify it a little.
Remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over. Watch the points to see if they are opening and closing. If they are, you should be seeing a spark everytime they open.
If not, you aren't getting voltage at the coil due to several possibilities.
1. Ignition wiring on switch (if disturbed during column install)
2. Resistor wire open or disconnected.
3. Bad coil
4. Distributor connection on coil or points are bad.

I am assuming everything ran fine before you started on the column and now you have troubles. If you rewired your switch to the column, try there first. if not, look under the dash for broken connections due to rooting around under there.

Hope we helped.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 16-May-02 AT 10:59 AM (EST)]Steve has given excellent pointers, and as he said, I certainly do not want to insult your knowledge.
That said, Did the engine fire before in your presence? What has changed that might cause a problem with either spark or with fuel delivery?
Here's a good sequence to follow.
1. Make sure you are getting spark, good spark, and to the right cylinders.
a. Check for power at the points with the key on RUN.
b. Check for spark by using a flat tip screwdriver to gently pry the points open and closed. Take the cap off, take the coil wire off the dist cap, hold it 1/2 inch from the engine block with a dry rag, and don't get bit. (Turn the key to RUN for this step too.) If you do it this way, you can do it by your self, and can save on draining the battery by not cranking the entire engine. If you're not sure about this, write back.
c. DOUBLE CHECK BOTH the firing order AND the cylinder order! Make sure you know which cylinder is 1 and which is 2. I don't have my book with me, so I cannot remember if the cylinder numbering is L-R-L-R for 1-2-3-4, or L-L-L-L for 1-2-3-4. Or R-R-R-R for 1-2-3-4, or R-L-R-L for 1-2-3-4.
d. Check the proper timing of the rotor, so that it points to No 1 at TDC. This can get pretty technical, but we can handle it no problem! All you gotta do is ask.
2. Make sure you are getting fuel to the carb.
a. Look down the throat of the carb and work the throttle 2 or 3 times. If you see gas squirting, you are getting fuel.
b. If not, trace back to the filter, the pump and the tank for the cause. If you can blow though the filter, it's OK. Don't used compressed air!
c. If you can blow LOW PRESSURE compressed air GENTLY through the line from the fuel pump to the tank, you probably don't have a clogged line, or, you just unclogged it, albeit temporarily. You might need to clean the tank and lines out.

Let us know.

 

I am no mechanic, but have turned a lot of wrenches- these are mine so I work on 'em I should have given a bit more in the first post, The truck has never fired in my presence, I went ahead with the column change so I would'nt have to have someones foot on the clutch while I played with the motor.
I did watch the rotor turn ccw and kept that in mind while taking care of the firing order, I am not sure how to find TDC without disassembly( insert help here).
I went by memory on the piston numbers, correct me if I need it, Driver side front is #1 behind that 3,5,and 7 passenger side front to back = 2,4,6,8.
I know this aint smart, but I saw no spark from the coil wire so I held it my hand- nothing.
I dont even have the fuel pump hooked up right now, afraid of what may be in the tank, so I am pouring it in the carb till I hear it at least try, then I will check the tank.
I'm off to check the coil with the key on, Will keep you posted.
Thanks, OwenB

 

Ok, I have voltage at the coil on both sides with the key on,I need to charge the battery a bit before I try again. Showed 12.1v and dropped to 7.8v when cranking.
I still cant help thinking its in the distributor, but welcome all advice. As soon as I get a definite answer on piston numbers and finding TDC we can play some more.
Thanks, OwenB

 

Owen: Thanks for sharing the info!
First, we need to get you spark: Do you have voltage at the points? Take the wire to the points off of the distributor, and check it for voltage. You should have at least 6V with the ignition switch in the RUN position.
If you have voltage with the wire off, make sure the coil is OK, and that the condenser is not shorting the voltage out.

If you don't have power to the points, look for a resistor in the circuit (they can and do burn out). The resistor reduces 12V supply to 6V to the points. If the points ran at a full 12V all the time, they would quickly burn up. If you don't have voltage to the resistor, then the problem is in the wiring elsewhere.

Once you get your spark fixed, you will need to correct the firing order. 1-2-3-4 are on th passenger side, from fron to rear. 5-6-7-8 are on the right, the driver's side.


Insert help here (for finding TDC): OK, this one is a little complicated, but it really is easy.
Remove the #1 spark plug.
Have a friend bump the engine, or rotate it by hand.
Use a finger or thumb to cover the spark plug hole while he cranks. he must hand crank it in the normal engine rotation direction.
STOP when you feel air being pushed out the #1 cylinder.
Continue to rotate the engine by hand until the marks on the timing pointer and the damper line up.
You're there.
Now, check that the rotor is pointing to #1 cylinder. You should be able to get he engine started now, and adjust it from there. (If you have spark, and gas,etc)
Hope this helps.

 

Owen: Our posts crossed, sorry about that!
Good, you've got volts to the coil.
Do this:
Remove the cap, and the coil to cap wire from the cap.
Turn the key on.
Use a small flat tipped screwdriver, and make intermittent contact between the points. This will simulate the cam in the distributor opening and closing the points, and you should get good spark.
If you don't it sounds like a bad coil, most likely.

 

my 61 did the same thing for me when i got ... the nut on the condensor was off... once that was put back on the truck fires every time... good luck

 

I Thank everyone for their input. Gotta go out of town and wont be able to try all this stuff untill tuesday, will keep you posted.
Thanks, OwenB

 

 

I have spark !
But I dont know exactly how I got it, cleaned and tightened a lot of connections, rewired the spark plug wires again, and charged up the battery- still dont have the fuel pump hooked back up yet, but I got her to sputter ( barely and very few times ) Now I have another question or two.
My opinion is the spark is not a very strong one,( how can I KNOW? ) It has Autolite 35 plugs right now, the ones that were in it. My local parts store does not have the BF 42c that it calls for. Also, I am using a battery that is, more than likely, not OEM specs- 650 amp- 525 cold.
Will these 2 items need to change before I get reliable spark?
I will pick up the right plugs and an inline fuel filter tomorrow.
What plugs are you using?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-May-02 AT 09:23 PM (EST)]I'm using Rf10C Champions, but I like a hotter plug, personally. To get hotter spark, try these pointers (PUN INTENDED! )
1. File your points a bit, both sides, to get a clean surface, but don't file too much! Use a small flat file, or one of your wife's (used!) nail board files. Clean it off after with a squirt of WD-40. Don't use Liquid Wrench or a silicone spray, though.
2. Check your points gap. Should be .17, but I set at .16 to allow for pitting.
3. Make sure the firing order is correct, as we previously mentioned. As you are facing the engine, 1-2-3-4 are on the passenger side, from front to rear. 5-6-7-8 are on the right, the driver's side.
4. Use new wires and plugs.
Good luck!

 

I GOT IT!
It took some trial and error to find exactly where to plug in the #1 plug wire, but then she cranked right up. I wish I could say she ran smooth and did not smoke or clatter, but all in good time.
Thanks to all for the input.
I will start another thread on the breaks, we may just get a little drive time in this weekend.
OwenB