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As most of you know, my mechanic skills are "basic" at best. When driving straight down the road, my steering wheel is turned to the right about 15 degrees. How do I adjust this?
Been too rainy lately to drive it much, so I thought I would tinker with it awhile. Yeah, I know it is a "daily driver", but our well-water has so much iron in it, it makes my blue truck look orange when I wash it!
Try getting a front end alignment. That may cure the listing wheel. If not you could pull the wheel off, make sure the front wheels are straight and reinstall the wheel.
Drive the truck straight for a short distance to make sure the truck is driving straight. If you have a long driveway that's great, if you don't, park the truck without turning the steering wheel, mark the position of the steering wheel in ralationship to the column using a white crayon, or something else that is easy to remove. Drive to a place you can remove the steering wheel, park the truck making sure the two hash marks line up, this way you know your front wheels are straight. Remove the steering wheel, turn the steering until it's in the straight position and reinstall.
Thanks, fellas. Removing the steering wheel was the obvious solution. I thought someone might suggest a way to adjust the shaft in relationship to the steering box. Either way has the same outcome, though.
Another rookie question related to this: How do I remove the horn button without scratching/damaging it?
So I pulled the 1" nut off the shaft last night and the steering wheel is still solidly mounted. Tried pulling, jerking, cussin--all to no avail. Decided to break out my old shop manual. How hard could removing a steering wheel be? Well, in my shop manual, it shows them using a special tool to force it off of the shaft. What the...? Anyone make one of these tools, know where to get one, or know of a different solution?
Some times the steering wheel can be removed by pulling up on it hard (with your knees) while a buddy hits the center of the steering shaft with a punch and hammer. Be sure to have the retaining nut ON about 6/7 turns or you maybe seeing stars for a long time when the wheel pops off and hits you in the head!
Most of the time using a puller is best and the safest. I bought mine years ago and while I don`t use it often it was a good buy as it can be used for some other applications such as the harmonic balancer, ect.
Before you leave to pick up the puller look inside the hub of the steering to see if there are two holes on either side of the shaft. There should be two 5/16 fine thread holes, you might not see them, a lot of times they fill with gunk over the years. Some wheels don't have the holes at all and you will have to drill and tap the holes. Either way you'll need two 4"-5" bolts, and maybe a tap, so you mise well get them when you go out to get the puller so you don't have to make two trips.
Before you pull it, note whether your wheel has play at the top bearing (move the wheel side to side, don't rotate it). I added a washer to the top side of my upper bearing and it made the whole steering system much less sloppy. Not sure why but it appeared there was a missing spacer, it had almost 1/8" of clearance between the wheel and bearing cone. This isn't a way to take up slop in the steering box, just in the upper column.
On any vehicle I've seen (my F-1 included) with a solid front axle and drag link, there is a toe adjustment on the tie rod, and a steering box center adjustment on the drag link. After setting the toe, the steering wheel is likely off center, and so is the steering box. The threaded adjustment on the drag link is for correcting that. Block the front wheels so they can't turn and adjust the drag link until the steering wheel is straight. That is part of a correct wheel alignment, but many techs today don't know or care to center the steering wheel. FWIW, setting the toe in and centering the steering wheel on your truck is easily done at home.