Fuel Drip
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
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Fuel Drip
my brother-in-law has a 99 7.3 and he has noticed a fuel drip starting under the truck. it is not a lot but it appears that the fuel is coming from a brass or metal drain tube on the passenger side and it may be coming coming from the feul bowl but i cant follow the line up. that is the fuel bowl right below the 7.3 cover right? there was not a full tank and we want to know if this a problem or normal
Thanks
Thanks
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by eric777
my brother-in-law has a 99 7.3 and he has noticed a fuel drip starting under the truck. it is not a lot but it appears that the fuel is coming from a brass or metal drain tube on the passenger side and it may be coming coming from the feul bowl but i cant follow the line up. that is the fuel bowl right below the 7.3 cover right? there was not a full tank and we want to know if this a problem or normal
Thanks
Thanks
He probably needs new O rings for the fuel bowl drain: LINK
Nut
More Turbo
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 603
Likes: 1
From: Plano Texas
If he recently did a fuel filter change and used the drain on the side he might not have it shut all the way or the seal is bad. I would first try shut no shut on the drain. if it still leaks plug the line at the bottom until you can replace the seal.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by eric777
how do you turn it off ??
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Northern Colorado
Originally Posted by PSNut
Good place to start since it includes the entire valve drain assembly.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by guzzle92
Nut, does Garrett's $10 repair kit include the drain valve? I thought it was only the 2 o-rings.
Nut
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 96
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From: South Carolina
Drain leak
I have a 99 with a leak that comes from the valve and ends up in the valley ontop of the block. Do I need the O-rings or the whole valve? Also how difficult is it to do? Can I do it in 30 minutes or so or do I need to allocate more time? Need the truck for the weekend so Need to know whether to take it to the dealer. Thanks so much for your help, this forum is a great tool.
Scott
Scott
New User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3
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Fuel drip to full-blown gusher
I had a problem with a drip and first thing I did was installed a rubber fuel line to the drain tube so the fuel drip would happen below the truck. Then I plugged the line at the bottom. Problem temp fixed? I thought so, but I think it made things worse. My drain valve eventually became a fuel dump situation when the engine was running. Plus, because I had the drain plugged, the fuel was escaping where the tube connected to the drain valve assembly. (not a pressure connection) This made the fuel pool and heat up on the top of the engine block. Needless to say, no more time to delay on this one. Ford had to remove the entire Fuel filter housing to remove and replace the drain valve. No more probems with this one. I did leave the rubber hose only on the drain tube to aid in a cleaner water-draining process.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: South Carolina
Replaced whole valve
I wanted to give some feed back about my experience. I went to the International dealer and they had their part which only had two mounting holes. Their part was $12.08. They told me if it was on a ford that I would have to get the part from the dealer. At this point I'm getting worried about getting the part in time for the weekend, so I went to the closest dealer and they want $66 for a similiar part to the International one. It was the right part so I sucked up and bought it. The ford part had a sticker that covered up an International sticker. The International Part number was 1831198C91 which includes the valve, handle, and o-rings
I got home and found that the only thing that would work in such a small space was a T20 Torx screwdriver bit in a 1/4 socket. I used tape to hold it in because I got tired if fishing out of the valley on the engine. With a 1/4 rachet drive I was very painfully able to get the old valve off and reinstall the new valve in about 1 hour 10 minutes. If there was more room I could have done it in about 15 minutes.
Looks like it fixed the problem.
I got home and found that the only thing that would work in such a small space was a T20 Torx screwdriver bit in a 1/4 socket. I used tape to hold it in because I got tired if fishing out of the valley on the engine. With a 1/4 rachet drive I was very painfully able to get the old valve off and reinstall the new valve in about 1 hour 10 minutes. If there was more room I could have done it in about 15 minutes.
Looks like it fixed the problem.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 177
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From: Bella Vista AR
Changed my o-ring on drain valve 2 weeks ago. Go to Auto Zone and they have a misc oring kit that has the 1/2" od and 1/4 ID 1/8" thickness that you need by 2 kits for $3.50 each. To put it nicely you have zero room to work but with a T20 and 1/4 rachet you will have it fixed in about 1.5 hours. Your hands will cramp and make sure the kids are inside because you will be cussin! Good luck.
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