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Well, while I'm trying to troubleshoot the engine I looked over the fuse box such as it is (4 fuses, I think total) and found the turn signal fuse blown.
The left rear turn signal wiring was completely gone/corroded at the light so I ran two new wires from the bulb and had it (so I thought) taken care of.
What it does now with a new fuse installed:
Headlights OFF: Left/Right work OK, but bulbs under speedo light in time with blinker.
Halfway position (running lights) Right turn signal indicator stays ON, nothing on the left.
Headlights ON: Seems to work fine.
Any ideas? Figure on some kind of short, since the fuse was blown...
I think the ground wire for the instrument panel is broken. Should be black and screwed to the top of the pedal support and bayonett connector to the instrument panel. Along with the new wires for the tail light, install a new 1157 socket. These are cheap, available at any auto parts help shelf. I solder mine in. Be sure the tail light housing is grounded. You can solder a wire on it and use a ring connector and screw fasten it to the body. The blowing fuse indicates a short, you will just have to find it. Look for frayed, bare wires especally where the wire harness crosses a sharp edge. Also any connection that is warm or HOT, is bad and needs cleaning or repair.
William in Atlanta
Could also be a (hot)wire begining to rub through the insulation anywhere along the chassis. This kind of electrical problem can work fine for a while, then blow fuses, then work fine. I aggree that a bad ground could also be the problem. Visually inspect each wire in the circuit and check for small cracks or abraisions that could possibly be contacting metal.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Jul-02 AT 10:12 PM (EST)]OK, thanks. Much appreciated. I cleaned the garage out completely, and washed ole blue good to get psyched up for this, heh. Boy she looks good. I've got can of carnuba wax that she'll get treated with once I get the turn signals straightened out.
The head/light switch is also supposed to dim the dash lights (or act as a rheostat for you technical minded folks.) It don't do nothin' as it were, but lights come on and off OK. I might try removing that and hitting it with contact cleaner, anyone have any luck with that?
I'd invest in a new headlight switch. Removal and installation is EASY. Push the spring loaded release button on top of the switch, pull out the switch **** and shaft, remove the bezel and pull the switch down and unplug the harness. Inspect the harness for burnt contacts, clean them good, coat the switch contacts with dielectric grease, plug it in and wrap a plastic wire tie around the switch and harness. Re-install the switch and ****. I'll wager your lights work after that.
William in Atlanta
Hm, the 64 model is a bit different. The **** is friction fit, and the bezel and switch is held to dash by a slotted nut. Still easy to remove though after looking at it for a bit. The headlights worked OK, it was just the dimmer that was inop, and I can see why. It's just a coil of resistance wire, nichrome or something like that was all horked. Can't put the toothpaste back in the tube on that one. Found one for 19.95 here in town I'll pick that up monday. I'll run through all the turn signal connections here in a bit, shouldn't be a big problem, corrosion is my guess at the connectors plus prolly a short somewhere.
Boy do I feel stupid. After checking the wiring carefully all the way back to the tail lamps, and checking all the connectors at the firewall (they needed cleaning anyway I guess) and under the dash, I started to check at the front running lights/turn signals. I'd narrowed the problem down to the front and right wiring harness I figured. Turned out to be the cheap chinese bulb had loosened from the socket and shorted out. Bingo, problem solved. Jeez. Works great now.
Replaced the light switch ***'y, 19.95 from Standard Electric here in town, so I got dimming capability now, woo-hoo.
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