When installing a turn signal switch, are the wire going to have to be cut and spliced?

 

Unless you have the right column to just feed it through the slot in the shifter cowl then Nope, you remove the wire connectors at the plastic connector.

There is a special tool.

I hope you can see this.

 

So I have to have that tool and push all the wires out of the plug, and then crimp new connectors on the wires and push them back into the plug?

 

Nope, You unsleeve the metal connectors from the plastic holder making sure you write down their position before you remove them.

Hang on, you are replacing the whole switch.
You don't nee to be careful with the old switch.

Which means you can cut the wires on the old switch then remove the ends from the plastic connector, and after threading the wires through the column replace the cut wires one at a time into the plastic connector making sure they are correct ...because the same metal connectors on the new wires are already there to be inserted.

You can now buy a multi-size terminal connector for $5.00 from Lisle tools.

 

If you are in a hurry, or cannot find the tool, a dental pick works wonders also.
This is easy, and takes about 5 minutes or less to do all the wires, but you must be patient.
The retaining clip is punched out of the pin itself, and must be pushed back in to allow the wire to release.
Gently pull on the wire, and use the pick or similar tool to push the retaining clip back into the pin, just enough to release it.
The wire will come right out.
To re-install (you did make a diagram first, right??) first make sure the retaining clip is bent back out just a tiny bit.
Insert the wire into the hole, and the clip will spring back into place to retain the pin.
Done gently enough, the pin retainers will not require any bending at all.

 

The metal connector looks something like this in the plastic connector with the left side of this diagram being the back side of the plastic connector.
The ---- is the wire
The ==== is the metal end inside the plastic.

--[/=======]

That little barb {/} is holding the metal end in the plastic.
you have to go in from the front (right side where it connects) and push that bendable barb in and pull lightly on the wire to allow the wire/metal end .....to slide out the back.

 

okay dumb question if you have replaced several turn signal cams ( just the plastic pieve the arm screws into ) and they keep breaking is the whole switch the best way to try to fix the problem. or should i wait till after converting to power steering??

 

When you replace the cam, lube it with dielectric grease. If you leave it dry it can break. Lube it on the tabs that keep breaking off and it will last.Nope is right. Your current switch has a plastic harness plug on the end that all the wires snap into. You'll want to re-use that plug. It mates up to a another on the truck harness. You'll be pulling the pins out of the switch plug and inserting the new wires. The metal ends are already crimped on. You don't need the tool either. I used a tiny screwdriver.

 

A piece of brass or aluminum tube from your local hobby shop or hardware store. Just big enough ID tom slide over the pins and compress the barbs for removal from the block. Use a pull line to pull the new switch leads back thru the column. "Special tool" tube, app $0.79. Watch you wire colors as newer switches changed colors.

.....=o&o>.....

 

http://blueovaltruckparts.com/catalo...ducts_id=11722

click the above link to see a NEW TS switch.

Then Click to enlarge the pic.
Seeing this should make more sense when you see the pic ...having viewed my illustration above ,.....and see this connector that holds the wires on the steering column.

 

That depends on the quality of the replacement cam.

There are some that are inferior and some that are of better quality.

There should be better quality in a new switch than a cheap cam replacement.

 

Okay, I think I see now. My switch should be in tomorrow so I'll see how it goes.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I have the new turn signal (cancel cam) and I am just about to begin this job myself...mine did not come with the plastic connector, just wires, so I guess I have to insert them into the connector as you said...so I have a dumb question.....

How do I get into the switch? I dont see any bolts or screws...do I have to take off the steering wheel?

 

First off the plastic connector doesn't come with the switch (as per my link to the picture of it at the very top of post #10).


First disconnect the battery. Then remove the steering wheel


Now....If you are absolutely sure that TS switch can't be repaired then cut the wires for the switch about 2" from the connector.

Make sure you unplug the connector first so you don't cut the wrong wires

If you think it can be repaired by someone (because sometimes they can) then remove the ends like we showed you .

Make sure you make a diagram of how they are located in the connector before you start removing them.

Maybe like this with more curve

 

I assume your new cancelling cam came (like most) with wires that are about 1-1/2" long. If so, you're not going to be dealing with the connector at all. The switch has two separate pieces--the cancelling cam and the switch itself. The cam is an aftermarket deal, but the switch is still a Ford part. Unfortunately, you have a PITA in front of you.

Like Mil1ion said, disconnect your battery and remove the steering wheel. Pulling the wheel's not difficult--once you get it to come free after decades in place anyway. Once it's off, remove the stupid clip that's holding your current cam in place. Try not to lose this as you may need it later (the aftermarket cams come with even crappier clips).

You'll have to cut the wires to the old cam. Try to cut them as close to the cam as possible (just make sure you leave enough to tell which was green and which was blue). This is to give you as much wire as you can muster to mess with later (in case you have to splice it more than once--experience speaking here ). You'll have to splice the new wires into the old. Find the narrowest splicers you can. A thin (red) butt-connector works. Even better is a bare one that you can wrap with a layer of tape (yes, I know it sounds half-arsed, but there's just no room in there). The best alternative if you have the setup is to make a solder connection and cover it with heat-shrink tubing.

Once the new wires are spliced in place, the fun really starts. Coat the new cam contacts with dielectric grease. You'll have to get the new spliced wires to fit into the same space under the TS switch where the old ones used to run (with the connectors)while positioning the new cam on the shaft. This is not as easy as it might seem because if your switch is getting pressure from underneath it won't work right (if you have too much leftover wire to deal with, you can always try to pull some of the excess through the steering column).

Be careful to make sure all wires are clear before you tighten anything down. I've cut one of the wires in half by not getting it positioned right before and mashing it under the switch. Also on this, make sure the horn wire is free and not pushing up against the TS switch (see above).

Once everything is in place, you'll have to secure the new cam with a clip on the shaft. Most aftermarket cams come with a push-on o-clip. This thing flat sucks. Ideally, try to find a c-clip that fits the shaft and covers the space. To set it, you may also need to pull up on the turn signal lever to get the shaft to clear the top of the cam enough.

Once it's all back together give it a complete check-out of all lighting before calling it good. The whole TS deal is probably the worst thing I've ever ran into with an old Ford. Huge PITA for no good reason. I think I've covered it here, but I'm pretty drunk right now so could have it all cocked up . If you have any problems, just holler.