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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

48-52 Bed Installation Question

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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 07:32 PM
  #31  
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Dogbones are the rear cab support links, they look just like dogbones. Any wear in the rubber bushings and it changes the ride height of the cab noticeably (because they are at an angle). You can change them without removing the cab. (Repro ones are actually the ones used stock on '53-56 I think, they are cast iron instead of stamped metal and much stronger)

I agree, none of that "cab off" stuff for me! That's exactly where I drew the line!
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 07:39 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Tim, just curious, have you drilled a bigger hole at the bottom of the stake pocket for drainage? I wonder why they closed it at all?
I didn't drill 'em. Maybe the old rancher I bought the truck from did. It's the original bed but certainly some "customizing" over the years wouldn't surprise me. Maybe that's one reason it was in such good shape.

My bones were replaced. I'll have to scope it out if it ever cools down. Are the bones adjustable?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 09:58 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by f1fordguy
My bones were replaced. I'll have to scope it out if it ever cools down. Are the bones adjustable?
Nope. There are also two rubber blocks that get stuck in with the bones that are essential to keeping the cab centered.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2006 | 10:58 PM
  #34  
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This article came up just in time for me. I'm going to put the finish on my wood this week and install next month. Sounds to me that maybe it is best to get the fenders and running boards assembled and then worry about the gap. I know my frame was for a longbed and cut down for a shortbed. Hope that doesn't cause many problems.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 05:16 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Delzell
This article came up just in time for me. I'm going to put the finish on my wood this week and install next month. Sounds to me that maybe it is best to get the fenders and running boards assembled and then worry about the gap. I know my frame was for a longbed and cut down for a shortbed. Hope that doesn't cause many problems.
My frame was also for a long bed but when I shortened it I was careful to leave the front mounting holes for the front cross member thinking that would give me a great starting point for centering the bed on the truck. As luck would have it those mounting holes were useless in my case. Perhaps you will have better luck. Yes, it is best to get the running boards and fenders assembled first. The only reason I did not do that is because I'm still waiting on them from Bebops and wanted to get a jump on the bed installation. What kind of finish are you using? I am thinking of using some kind of marine application for mine.

Vern
 
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Old Aug 6, 2006 | 05:23 PM
  #36  
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I'm goimg to use a UV resisstant tung oil. I would hope to get away from stripping and finishing. I think sun is the real killer and I would try to get a cover on any finish to keep it lasting longer.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 11:53 AM
  #37  
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Vern,
I can take some measurements off of my bed tonight. I've been out of town and havent had much of a chance to mess with the truck. I kept the front x-member on my bed and used the original mounting holes. I don't think I have 1 3/8" gap between the bed and the cab. I was a bit concerned about my bed mounting as I made my own mounts. I made rubber mounting pads out of some 3/16" reinforced rubber that I got free from a local rubber and gasket supply outfit.
I mounted my running boards and all the holes lined up with the fenders front and rear so the bed must be at the right height. I do have about a 1/2" gap between the top of the running board edge and the lower bedside. Is this normal?



Do you still need any measurements?

Bobby
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:10 PM
  #38  
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Bobby,

Nice color combination lol! Yeah, I think that 1 3/8 gap is bogus. I believe I have mine pretty much positioned where I want it but I had to re-drill the front cross member mounting holes an inch further to the rear. I wouldn't worry much about the 1/2 inch gap between the bed and running board. It will hardly be noticable. The Pros-Pick bed installation instructions tell you there may be a gap there. If it's excessive they suggest you take a measurement of the opening, make a sketch of it and have a filler piece made up by a local sheet metal shop.

Vern
 
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:38 PM
  #39  
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Vern,

I think Pros-Pick need to update their instructions. You would think that with as much as a new bed costs they would be courteous enough to give you detailed instructions (with pics) of how to put it all together.

Yup, my old truck is mighty purty ain't it? Once I get done with all of the modifications I want to do then I'll consider blowing it apart for paint. (I guess it give me plenty of time to figure out how to do body work)

Bobby
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 05:43 PM
  #40  
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Hi guys, I'm planning on updating my '50 F1 metal bed (over wood) with wood. Any link to a detail tutorial or DIY video you can direct me too would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
JP
 
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Old Feb 20, 2020 | 06:07 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by jeep642
Hi guys, I'm planning on updating my '50 F1 metal bed (over wood) with wood. Any link to a detail tutorial or DIY video you can direct me too would be much appreciated.

Cheers,
JP
JP, welcome to FTE the best Ford truck forum on the world wide web! I think it'd be best to start your own thread with a specific title.

For quick replies we suggest, no demand, that you post pictures of your truck!
 
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