48-52 Bed Installation Question
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
48-52 Bed Installation Question
I'll be starting on this soon. I looked through the bed installation (ProsPick) instructions and see nothing about any kind of pads or lacing between the bed crossmembers and the frame. With my truck being an F-3 that has been shortened for an F-1 bed, the first thing I noticed is that there are no locating holes for the rear bed crossmember and I will have to drill them. I may also have to drill the crossmember holes for mounting the middle two(don't know for sure since I haven't got that far yet). The instructions suggest I start with the rear crossmember but it looks like the front crossmember locating holes might be already there and possibly the same as for an F-1 so probably that's where I should start as far as determining exactly where to drill the holes for the rear one. I was thinking there might be something that goes between the crossmembers and the frame to possibly prevent squeaks or insulate in some way? There was nothing like that in the installation kit. Can someone enlighten me on this? Also, do you guys who have been through a new bed installation (or replacing an old one for that matter) have any tips to offer??? 
Vern
Vern
Last edited by GreatNorthWoods; Jul 30, 2006 at 07:12 AM.
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From: NM
Yep, there's a set of square rubber cushions that go under each crassmember. Personal opinion, they ought to be made of a higher durometer (harder) rubber than I got thru "the usual sources". Anti-squeak cloth/webbing would work if it were wider.
I've never done the frame shortening trick for a bigger truck, but my concern would be that the center crossmembers are made to fit on either side of the hump over the axle, and end up with their top surfaces at exactly the same height as the front crossmember, and flat. Before you drill anything, I'd lay them out and run a straightedge across the tops.
I think Northern Classic is saying to start at the rear because you can't change anything on that without a lot of grief, but in your case (having changed the frame) you do want to make sure the front of the bed doesn't end up too close to the cab. Can you put the assembled bedsides with front and rear panels on the frame?
BTW 48-50 is significantly different in attachment method at the rear than 51-52, at least from what I've seen on BobbyTNM's truck. Do you have a steel floor bed?
I've never done the frame shortening trick for a bigger truck, but my concern would be that the center crossmembers are made to fit on either side of the hump over the axle, and end up with their top surfaces at exactly the same height as the front crossmember, and flat. Before you drill anything, I'd lay them out and run a straightedge across the tops.
I think Northern Classic is saying to start at the rear because you can't change anything on that without a lot of grief, but in your case (having changed the frame) you do want to make sure the front of the bed doesn't end up too close to the cab. Can you put the assembled bedsides with front and rear panels on the frame?
BTW 48-50 is significantly different in attachment method at the rear than 51-52, at least from what I've seen on BobbyTNM's truck. Do you have a steel floor bed?
Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Jul 30, 2006 at 09:47 AM.
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From: Canada
Anti-squeak cloth/webbing would work if it were wider.
Just to add a suggestion note on the above. If you were to take a length of Fire Hose, and these can be picked up at some of your local Flea marts, or Army Surplus outlets.
Cut to length soak in a container of oil and creosote mix for a few days, then apply to the top of frame where needed.
Just a suggestion that may do the job for you.
Just to add a suggestion note on the above. If you were to take a length of Fire Hose, and these can be picked up at some of your local Flea marts, or Army Surplus outlets.
Cut to length soak in a container of oil and creosote mix for a few days, then apply to the top of frame where needed.
Just a suggestion that may do the job for you.
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Another member says he has the rubber cushions and they look like they are made from tires. I've located where the front crossmember will mount and it looks like it won't be too close but how close is too close? As long as the front bed panel doesn't touch the cab I should be okay...right? My plan was to mount the front crossmember in the existing holes and then use the bed side panels to locate the mounting holes for the middle ones and rear. I'm hoping the middle holes will already be there and in the right place since the only portion of the frame I cut was eight inches between the cab and the front crossmember mounting holes and twelve inches off the rear. This is a 48 truck but I'm using a 51-52 bed and rear fenders so I will be using a wood floor. 
Vern
Vern
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From: Austin, TX
I could be thinking about this too much, but doesn't the connection of the running boards and rear fenders kinda "set" where the bed goes, especially if the holes for the rear fenders are already in the bedside? If you have no rear fender holes you can "free lance" alittle more.
I used the bed to frame pads sold by the various vendors. Seems to work just fine. Seems to me if you used something as thick as old tires you raise the height of the bed and the holes for the running boards to rear fender bolts won't line up.
I bet I don't have a half inch between the back of the cab and front bed panel. I would like a little more space but that would be a chore and repaint of the bed because you would have to relocate the rear fender bolt holes
I used the bed to frame pads sold by the various vendors. Seems to work just fine. Seems to me if you used something as thick as old tires you raise the height of the bed and the holes for the running boards to rear fender bolts won't line up.
I bet I don't have a half inch between the back of the cab and front bed panel. I would like a little more space but that would be a chore and repaint of the bed because you would have to relocate the rear fender bolt holes
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Fleet Mechanic
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From: Minnesota
If you are over thinking it we both are, I was thinking the same thing. A peice of sidewall from a radial tire would work good as a pad. When I got my F3 the bed wood was rotten and I made a couple of peices to hold the bed up and in place so I could fit up where everything went you might want to try it here also. Maybe cut a couple peices of 2 x 4 to fit.
Originally Posted by f1fordguy
I could be thinking about this too much, but doesn't the connection of the running boards and rear fenders kinda "set" where the bed goes, especially if the holes for the rear fenders are already in the bedside? If you have no rear fender holes you can "free lance" alittle more.
I used the bed to frame pads sold by the various vendors. Seems to work just fine. Seems to me if you used something as thick as old tires you raise the height of the bed and the holes for the running boards to rear fender bolts won't line up.
I bet I don't have a half inch between the back of the cab and front bed panel. I would like a little more space but that would be a chore and repaint of the bed because you would have to relocate the rear fender bolt holes
I used the bed to frame pads sold by the various vendors. Seems to work just fine. Seems to me if you used something as thick as old tires you raise the height of the bed and the holes for the running boards to rear fender bolts won't line up.
I bet I don't have a half inch between the back of the cab and front bed panel. I would like a little more space but that would be a chore and repaint of the bed because you would have to relocate the rear fender bolt holes
Last edited by Christopher2; Jul 30, 2006 at 06:29 PM.
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Brett Foote
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Both my old pads and the repro pads were 1/4" thick at most. A piece made from a tire would seem to be too thick. You're absolutely right about the inter-relationships of the bed, fenders, and running boards!!
I'll have the Roast Duck
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From: Northshore, MN
I would assume that whatever height the bed is set at, the cab would also have to move to keep everything lined up with the running boards. Even a 1/4" difference is noticeable to the naked eye 20 feet away. Atleast it is on the 76 F250 I've been helping on. Also, even though my bed is original, the front panel is bolted to the sides. If the front is too close for comfort to the cab, I'd suggest moving the front panel back a bit, redrill the bolt holes, and metal work the edges to make it look right. However, since yours is aftermarket, it may already have the closeness taken into perspective. My 2 cents. Good luck.
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My 48 had the 1/4" x 2" square rubber cushions the box frame sat on. When it went back together I cut new ones frim the sidewall of an old radial passenger tire. Only thing I had to watch for was the radial sidewall was too thin in some places - like 3/16". Everything fit together fine so it must be close.
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
I have some room to "free lance" since the bed comes without the holes for the rear fenders. Both the running boards and rear fenders are fiberglass and without mounting holes.
Vern
Vern
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From: Austin, TX
Originally Posted by GreatNorthWoods
I have some room to "free lance" since the bed comes without the holes for the rear fenders. Both the running boards and rear fenders are fiberglass and without mounting holes.
Vern
Vern
Tim
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From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Originally Posted by f1fordguy
Infinate adjustability. So, how much space you gonna put between the bed and cab?
Tim
Tim
Good question. I worked on it some more today and found that the original mounting holes for the front crossmember put the front bed panel too close to the cab. How much room should there be between the bed and cab? I don't know. Also, should the distance between the cab and bed be constant from top to bottom? As it looks now the front bed panel is closer to the cab at the top than at the bottom. I suppose I should raise the bed up some so that it's the same distance from the cab from top to bottom...right? The mounting holes for the two middle crossmembers seem to be located in the right place.
I am somewhat puzzled about the bed wood. It looks like the space where the bed wood should fit is 75 3/4 inches but the boards are 80 inches long. The instructions said nothing about cutting the boards so I am wondering if I have the right sized boards or if I've put something together wrong. Does anyone know exactly how long should the boards be or would that depend on the bed kit? I have a stock 49 F-1 and there's no way 80 inch boards would fit that bed.
Vern
Last edited by GreatNorthWoods; Jul 31, 2006 at 02:33 PM.
Roast em' if you got 'em
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Vern,
I built my own cross members and substructure on my bed. I called a local rubber and gasket shop and they let me have a pice of 3/16" thick reinforced rubber sheet. I cut out some 1 3/4" squares and took a gasket punch and punched a hole in the centers to make the pads that go between the x-mambers and the frame. I also used some angle washers between the bed and the frame at the areas where the bed bolts to the frame where it kicks up over the axle.
I had the angled washers left over from my cell tower days, they are used to bolts stuff to the flanges on "C" channel. I've also seen then at army surplus stores.
I just installed my running boards yesterday. I have about 1/4" gap between the running boards and the bed side. I havent decided what to do about it yet.
Good luck. It sounds like you are making tons of progress
Bobby
I built my own cross members and substructure on my bed. I called a local rubber and gasket shop and they let me have a pice of 3/16" thick reinforced rubber sheet. I cut out some 1 3/4" squares and took a gasket punch and punched a hole in the centers to make the pads that go between the x-mambers and the frame. I also used some angle washers between the bed and the frame at the areas where the bed bolts to the frame where it kicks up over the axle.
I had the angled washers left over from my cell tower days, they are used to bolts stuff to the flanges on "C" channel. I've also seen then at army surplus stores.
I just installed my running boards yesterday. I have about 1/4" gap between the running boards and the bed side. I havent decided what to do about it yet.
Good luck. It sounds like you are making tons of progress
Bobby