i did mine a 1/4 turn too, and i didnt notice a single difference. im not going to go tigher in fear of locking it up as i have heard. i will try a dual steering stabilizer setup after new wheels and tires.

 

As long as you dont go to much at once you should be OK strokin. I have seen a few that took a couple of full turns (1/4 turn at a time).

 

My search function is not working or else I'd find my write up for this. The original procedure calls for a small inch/pound torque (on the steering wheel nut) to set the right preload on the steering box allen screw. What I did was to jack the front wheels up and put them on stands. Then I loosened the allen screw's lock nut several turns and then I lightly seated the allen screw (to find where it bottoms out) and then back it off and lightly seated the screw again. Then I turned the steering wheel "lock to lock" to check for any rough spots or binding. If it's all smooth, then tighten down the lock nut while holding the allen screw. This will pull the allen screw away from bottom and should be good to go. It's been a year since I did it and all is good. It also made a world of difference in my steering!

 

I just finished trying this.

I tightened the stud approximately 1/4 turn. Test drove around the neighborhood and while it does feel a little tighter it does still have side to side play.

Am afraid to try this again due to the fact that people have told me that going to far can be disastrous to the steering box.

Maybe it's time to go to the front end shop.

 

This is the procedure copied from the book.

Adjust total on center load to eliminate excessive lash between the sector and rack teeth as follows.
With the engine off, turn the steering wheel from full right stop to full left stop at least once.

Remove steering wheel hub cover.


Disconnect the steering gear sector shaft arm from the steering gear sector shaft using Pitman Arm Puller.


Attach a newton meter (pound-inch) torque wrench to the steering wheel hub nut and determine the torque required to rotate the power steering gear input shaft and control back and forth across the center position (± 90 degrees).


Reset the meshload only if the measured torque for total on-center load is less than 1.5 Nm (13 lb-in). If reset is required, loosen the adjuster lock nut and turn the sector shaft adjuster screw until the measured total on-center load torque is 2.0 Nm (18 lb-in). Hold the sector shaft screw in place and tighten the lock nut to 48-61 Nm (35-45 lb-ft).


Recheck torque readings and replace the steering gear sector shaft arm. Tighten the pitman arm-to-sector shaft nut 230-310 Nm (170-228 lb-ft).


Verify no binding condition in steering throughout full stop-to-stop travel.


Replace steering wheel hub cover.

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="70%" border=1><TBODY><TR><TH vAlign=bottom>Item</TH><TH vAlign=bottom>Part Number</TH><TH vAlign=bottom>Description</TH><TR vAlign=top><TD>1</TD><TD>—</TD><TD>Outlet Port (Part of 3504)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>2</TD><TD>—</TD><TD>Inlet Port (Part of 3504)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>3</TD><TD>—</TD><TD>Identification Tag
(Part of 3504)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>4</TD><TD>—</TD><TD>Sector Shaft Adjusting Screw (Part of 3540)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>5</TD><TD>3580</TD><TD>Steering Gear Sector Shaft Housing Cover</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>6</TD><TD>—</TD><TD>Lock Nut (Part of 3540)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>7</TD><TD>3575</TD><TD>Steering Gear Sector Shaft</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>8</TD><TD>—</TD><TD>Control Valve Housing
(Part of 3568)</TD></TR><TR vAlign=top><TD>9</TD><TD>3D517</TD><TD>Power Steering Gear Input Shaft and Control</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Thanks for posting that. We will try it again.

 

I recently had alot of play in mine as well. I actually had someone move the steering wheel back and forth while I was under the truck looking at the steering assembly.

Turned out where the pivot arm bolted to the power steering box (stearing gear sector shaft), the large nut that holded that in place was 1 turn loose. Tightened it back up and it re-loosened again a week later, So I took that bolt and lockwasher completely out, dried everything up and applied loctite, seems to be doing okay now but I still have play. Not as much as I use to though. I have a spare tie-rod end that I might be replacing soon. I might even try what markadeck posted.

I have a question though, for those of you guys that have a 4.5 lift or higher with bigger wheels and tires, when you are at a standstill, and you go to turn the steering wheel, does it seem like you have no power steering? I am debating whether my power steering is going out or not. Seems to be good when I am moving though. Power steering fluid is good. any advice appriciated...

 

I have a 4" lift and 33" tires and yeah, sitting dead in the driveway the steering is tight. Once we start rolling it's back to normel but with too much play.

 

We finally found the source of the play in the steering of our truck. Turns out the Pitman arm wasn't torqued to the proper spec when the truck was lifted and that was allowing the arm some free play which we were feeling in the wheel. Went ahead and removed the Pitman arm, ran the procedure that Cuda_jim posted and then replaced and torqued properly. It drove much better. Had it aligned yesterday and now it drives like new.

Thanks for all of the advice from everyone.

 

did you have to remove the airbag to do this procedure?

 

Yes, not that big of a deal though.

 

I just went outside and tightened mine a little. Held the stud while loosening the lock nut. Then turned the stud about 1/4 turn. Then held the stud while retighting the lock nut. Took it out down the highway for 1/2 mile or so and came back.
Did seem to work for me.Steering does not seem as loose. Seems to have made it a little more sensitive and responsive.
Can't wait for a true test while running down a straight road on a windy day. Also steering did return to center very easily so I guess I did not overtighten the stud.
Cool........Very Cool..... Learned something else from this site.....Again!!!!!

 

i had the same problem as you on my 2000 psd. heres a link on how to adjust your steering box and tighten up the steering play

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/419941-steering-problems.html?highlight=steering+problems

 

It took three 1/4 turns and my wheel play is gone.

 

I was getting alot of side to side movement on the steering wheel. So bad it actually seized a couple of times. Took it in yesterday and was told that this is a fairly common problem with this truck ('97 F250 HD). They said that people pull on the steering to assist getting into the truck.

Fix, they told me, was to replace u-joints, bushings and bearings on the steering assembly. Estimated cost...$600.00! ($300 parts - $300 labor). The service manual shows the process to be pretty involved.

Don't pull yourself in the truck by the steering wheel!