A/C Problems
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: SOUTH TAMPA
A/C Problems
When i first bought my truck..the a/c acted weird.
When i would be at a stop the a/c would be warm but when i start moving it would get colder.. At first i thought it was a fan or something? but sometimes it willbe cold when im not moving too.
Recently the a/c stopped coming out of the vents in front. It for some reason comes out the sides ..on the 99 the driver side points torwards the window and passenger side points strait out. I feel the air coming from there
WHAT COULD IT BE?
When i would be at a stop the a/c would be warm but when i start moving it would get colder.. At first i thought it was a fan or something? but sometimes it willbe cold when im not moving too.
Recently the a/c stopped coming out of the vents in front. It for some reason comes out the sides ..on the 99 the driver side points torwards the window and passenger side points strait out. I feel the air coming from there
WHAT COULD IT BE?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Sounds like two problems. You have a vacuum leak or failing vacuum pump. I don't think 99s have ESOF, so thankfully, it's not your hubs or lines leaking there.
The part where it gets warm when idling is probably low refrigerant. Have someone with gauges check your pressures. Could be your clutch gap on the compressor too.
The part where it gets warm when idling is probably low refrigerant. Have someone with gauges check your pressures. Could be your clutch gap on the compressor too.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
If there's a vacuum problem with the hubs (if he has ESOF), it should only rear its ugly head if he's going into or out of 4wd. I say "should" because if the solenoid is kaput, then depending on what's wrong with it could lead to it being open (or somehow not fully shut) which could bleed off the vacuum.
The intermittent cold/not cold could be a A/C clutch issue. I don't have the link, but somebody will probably chime in if they have it. If not, you can do a search for it (A/C clutch shim) and I'll bet a lot will come up about it. I've not had that problem yet so I haven't read much into it.
The intermittent cold/not cold could be a A/C clutch issue. I don't have the link, but somebody will probably chime in if they have it. If not, you can do a search for it (A/C clutch shim) and I'll bet a lot will come up about it. I've not had that problem yet so I haven't read much into it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
He has no ESOF, so that's out. He'll have to check his vacuum system for cracks or breaks, or the pump itself...
To test the rest of the system, you really need to get gauges on it. If the compressor keeps disengaging, you can CAREFULLY tap the front of the clutch pack and see if it holds in. If it does, you'll have to find the thread Brian is talking about. You can remove shims from it to reset the gap (which is also given in that thread).
To test the rest of the system, you really need to get gauges on it. If the compressor keeps disengaging, you can CAREFULLY tap the front of the clutch pack and see if it holds in. If it does, you'll have to find the thread Brian is talking about. You can remove shims from it to reset the gap (which is also given in that thread).
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 290
Likes: 5
From: Greene County,TN.
I've never heard of them checking an a/c...and if they did, I don't think i would trust them anyway. 
Theres more to diagnosing an a/c than plugging a scan tool up and reading codes.
Pop the hood, crank the engine and turn the a/c on.(this is best to do on as hot or warm day) "MAX A/C, high bower and MAKE SURE the doors are open and windows are down. Look at the a/c clutch and see if it is engaged while idling. Then run the idle up a bit and see if the clutch cycles on and off. If it is fairly warm outside and the clutch is cycling, most likely the freon is low.
If the a/c coil is getting power and the clutch is not engaging, either the coil is to blame or the gap on the clutch. Power can be tested by using a simple 12 volt test light.
Theres more to diagnosing an a/c than plugging a scan tool up and reading codes. Pop the hood, crank the engine and turn the a/c on.(this is best to do on as hot or warm day) "MAX A/C, high bower and MAKE SURE the doors are open and windows are down. Look at the a/c clutch and see if it is engaged while idling. Then run the idle up a bit and see if the clutch cycles on and off. If it is fairly warm outside and the clutch is cycling, most likely the freon is low.
If the a/c coil is getting power and the clutch is not engaging, either the coil is to blame or the gap on the clutch. Power can be tested by using a simple 12 volt test light.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
From: Vashon, WA
In addition to your probable vacuum leak and AC clutch adjust, the other common problem with our AC's is the fact that ford has the system set up so the heater core is always on. Your air box has a simple flap valve to direct the air over AC coil or heater core or a mix of two.
You can buy a valve (itp has them) that goes in-line with your heater hose and config it so that when you go to max AC the heater core no longer receives hot coolant. This worked for me.
Not sure why you need Ac right now but glad to hear that you do !
You can buy a valve (itp has them) that goes in-line with your heater hose and config it so that when you go to max AC the heater core no longer receives hot coolant. This worked for me.
Not sure why you need Ac right now but glad to hear that you do !
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 434
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From: San Antonio, Tx.
They have you going in the right direction.
Here is Marv's writeup on the clutch shims: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4464164
if the clutch is out completely, let me know, I have a writeup somewhere on replacing and recharging from when I did mine in August.
Edit, just saw the post on the valve. They sell a manual one for the old rangers you can put in line, I have one somewhere in the garage I could send to you if I can find it.
Here is Marv's writeup on the clutch shims: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4464164
if the clutch is out completely, let me know, I have a writeup somewhere on replacing and recharging from when I did mine in August.
Edit, just saw the post on the valve. They sell a manual one for the old rangers you can put in line, I have one somewhere in the garage I could send to you if I can find it.