The steering in my 89 f-250 (extended cab, 4wd, 8 foot bed, 7.3L diesel) has been really loose, lot of play in the steering wheel before anything turned. I narrowed it down to 2 things by watching underneath the truck, and it was the center tie rod end, and play in the steering box. I replaced all the tie rods, and this took about half the play out (down to maybe 1 1/2 to 2 inches to either side before any resistance). I just replaced the steering box today, thinking that it would take out all the play. It made it better, but it still has about 3/4 of an inch to an inch of play to either side before contact is made. (the play I am referring to is in reference to the outside edge of the steering wheel). My parents have a 91 rwd f150 (extended cab, regular bed, 5.0) and that has no play at all, maybe an 1/8 of an inch to either side, there is a very noticable difference between the two. The steering box I put back in was a rebuilt unit from advance auto. Is this something normal, is it a difference between 4wd and 2wd, or do they not rebuild as much as they should on the steering boxes? Any help or thoughts, things to check would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jeff

 

it probly wear in the colum and input shaft to the steering box. have someone turn the wheel and watch the shaft to see what the joints do.

 

The column and shaft all turn as one. If i twist the shaft just above the steering box, the shaft going into the box twists, as well as the shaft all the way up to the steering wheel, which I can see turning when I look through the very bottom of the windshield. Come to think of it though, the coupling there where it connects to the steering box is rubber, is it normal to get play in that?

 

It made it better, but it still has about 3/4 of an inch to an inch of play to either side before contact is made

The shaft from the steering column that slides over the shaft that goes to the steering box is where mine is wore & has slop, (88-250 4X4) it is difficult to see, I tried shimming, it helped a little but still has a some slop, about what you are decribing. I'm going to tack weld it on one side, make it so I can grind the weld off if I need to take parts out. Other than that would have to replace both shafts or do some machine work to get it back to zero play.

 

ok I checked that out, and mine is as tight as I imagine it could be. I can see no visible play at all where the shaft seperates. As far as I can tell, the play is coming from inside the steering box, which seems odd. It was a refurbished box, should I go with something brand new, or did these trucks have play when they were brand new?

 

Check the joint right before the steering box.

Poor tie rods and alignment will contribute to this...

 

be sure to adjust the steering lash too.

 

i assumed the box was properly adjusted. if not new or not it could be set loose. loosen the nut on top turn in the stud and tighten the nut. good luck.

 

theres an actual procedure to do the lash correctly. Search isn't working for me right now so try it when you can.

Tim

 

I did look up the procedure on how to adjust the lash. I did try to do this on the old box, with no good results. I have a question though regarding loosening the nut on the steering wheel. I don't see exactly what this has to do with the rest of the procedure, it doesn't seem like the tightness of the steering wheel nut and the steering box adjustment have anything to do with each other. Maybe I am confused on exactly what is referring to what. Any clarification or explanation would be appreciated. I will check the connection to the steering box as well as the lash.

 

If tightening the old box didn't help. I would replace it with a rebuild.

 

Adjusting the lash is setting the tension or the preload between the gears in the box. To much and the gears wear fast and steering is tight, not enough and it feels loose.


There are normally three adjustments to be made on standard steering gear. Two of these (worm shaft bearing preload and sector gear lash) are made from the outside of the gear housing, and one (sector gear/shaft end play) can only be checked with the sector gear removed from the unit.



An exploded view of a recirculating ball nut steering gear; these parts are normally disassembled during a steering gear overhaul. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company. These adjustments are normally made in the following order when rebuilding a steering gear (1) sector gear end play - as the sector gear is removed or installed, (2) worm shaft bearing preload - as the worm shaft and bearings are being installed into the gear housing, and (3) sector gear lash - after the steering gear has been replaced.


The service manual tells you to disconnect the High Pressure hose before doing it and it is a good idea, if you loosen the lock nut and adjust the screw with pressure on it you can blow out the gasket on the adjusting screw cover then you will have a nice little drip until you fix it.

Hope this helps...

 

ok I checked out all the connections to the steering box, and everything is tight. I adjusted the lash, and it helped a little bit, but it didn't take care of it all. I climbed underneath the truck and watched as someone turned the wheel and the shaft connected to the pitman arm moved sideways, which seems odd to me. I am going to try to get a replacement part, as it seems as this is a defective part, maybe a loose lower bearing? There is still about 2 inches total play on the outer edge of the wheel, where no tie rods move at all. There is that sideways movement of the shaft that I described. There is absolutely no play right up until it goes into the steering box, I can see the small part of the shaft that comes out of the steering box moving with everything else right as the steering wheel moves. the tie rods are all brand new as well, there is no play there. Also, this is play while staying still, so alignment and tire wear shouldn't be making a difference at all. Am I correct in assuming this is a defective part, or is it just late model ford truck steering? It seems odd that my parents f150 is as tight as I have ever seen a car, and mine has so much play. Any thoughts, maybe things I missed?

 

Its more likely a low quality rebuild.

 

the rebuild I got is a cardone 27-7516. From what I've seen while searching, this seems to be a pretty standard name for these boxes. Is this something I should just go exchange in the hopes that it is just a defective part, or should I try to get my money back and look for a better one?