Guage cluster 5 volt regulator
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Rabbit-Hole Researcher
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 466
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From: Middle of Ohio
Guage cluster 5 volt regulator
I posted pictures of the 5 volt regulator in my gallery. I just followed the instructions on-line for the use of an IC. These pictures show how it could be attached to the back of the guage cluster, and give some hints on what printed circuit board traces are used.
This project replaces the vibrator style regulator and resistor coil. I built it on a piece of perf-board, and mounted it to a nut for one of the guages. The heat sink fits just fine back there. Be careful when you install it.
There is another posting thread on this topic. Many cluster pictures are in my gallery. Here is one.
Kevin
This project replaces the vibrator style regulator and resistor coil. I built it on a piece of perf-board, and mounted it to a nut for one of the guages. The heat sink fits just fine back there. Be careful when you install it.
There is another posting thread on this topic. Many cluster pictures are in my gallery. Here is one.
Kevin
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 30,255
Likes: 37
The only problems with the 5V electronic version is it does not have the semi-temperature compensation that works with the old mechanical flasher type system. With electronic regulation the gages will read low when the vehicle is cold and high when it is hot inside the vehicle. Another problem is a short circuit will destroy the electronic unit instantly. Also make sure the electronic circuit input is protected with a transient protector. The automotive electrical system sees 400V transients sometimes.
The main failure mode with the mechanical units is that they lose contact with the flex circuit causing the output voltage to rise and the gages peg high. This is due to oxidation of the flex circuit and creep in the plastic that releases tension on the mounting screw. Usually just cleaning the flex circuit and putting some silicone dielectric on under the tab will fix them up for many years. I usually add a star washer to the mounting screw to better maintain tension. The plastic will eventually creep tho but it takes many years. Low or no-cost replacement units if needed can be found in any old Ford in the salvage yard.
The main failure mode with the mechanical units is that they lose contact with the flex circuit causing the output voltage to rise and the gages peg high. This is due to oxidation of the flex circuit and creep in the plastic that releases tension on the mounting screw. Usually just cleaning the flex circuit and putting some silicone dielectric on under the tab will fix them up for many years. I usually add a star washer to the mounting screw to better maintain tension. The plastic will eventually creep tho but it takes many years. Low or no-cost replacement units if needed can be found in any old Ford in the salvage yard.
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