power door locks
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Bumpety Bump With A Fix!!!!
I agree, it sounds like a faulty ground for the system.
I began having the same problem with my 99's passenger side electric door lock last week. It's since cleared up, so I'll just have to wait for it to act out again, to begin my troubleshoot.
My system wiring pictorial shows the ground point to be G-103, but doesn't give it's location. Also noticed other things are also listed for this ground point, so it must be a common spot somewhere in the front of the cab, likely behind the dash on the firewall, or behind one of the kick panels, but does anyone know exactly where the ground point G-103 actually it is?????
I began having the same problem with my 99's passenger side electric door lock last week. It's since cleared up, so I'll just have to wait for it to act out again, to begin my troubleshoot.
My system wiring pictorial shows the ground point to be G-103, but doesn't give it's location. Also noticed other things are also listed for this ground point, so it must be a common spot somewhere in the front of the cab, likely behind the dash on the firewall, or behind one of the kick panels, but does anyone know exactly where the ground point G-103 actually it is?????
After trouble shooting the problem some more yesterday & not finding any ground, or voltage drop problems I began a search for more info.
So with a search late last night I turned up this 26 page thread, with a rework, if we want to do it, rather than drop $42 or more for a new actuator.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...s-fixed-1.html
The first & last page (26) sorta sum it up.
The other pages have photos & other approaches to the fix outlined on page one & how to reseal the case.
Be aware that shorting out the troublesome thermistor, that increases value/resistance over time & thus causes excessive votage drop to the lock actuator motor, causing it to become so weak it cant operate the door lock mechanism, may serve more than one purpose.
Normally it would provide current limiting to the motor, so if someone held the lock/unlock button down too long, it wouldn't overheat, but it may also provide EMI/RFI interference protecton for other onboad circuits, so when we do the fix, which is to short the themistor out, we may experience some other circuit problems elsewhere.
So far others have had this fix in place for two years now, without other reported problems, so use it at your risk.
BTW, there is a how-too, for removing the Ranger door panel in the "Tech Info" thread.
Junior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
sorry I missed this earlier fellas, let me see if I can help. The wiring system used in the locks is similar to the windows and is called a 5-wire reversing polarity system. Ford likes this system as it does not use any relays, but does suffer from some problems if there is a bad contact anywhere in the system.
There are two switches, a master(drivers I think) and a slave(passenger then). If any of the wires looses contact which can happen at a number of places, the master switch will loose all operation and the slave will only work in one direction. I am willing to be that you just have a dirty contace at on of the switches and it is killing the rest of the system. Not sure if you can clean the contacts, but otherwise replacing the switch would probably help as well.
There are two switches, a master(drivers I think) and a slave(passenger then). If any of the wires looses contact which can happen at a number of places, the master switch will loose all operation and the slave will only work in one direction. I am willing to be that you just have a dirty contace at on of the switches and it is killing the rest of the system. Not sure if you can clean the contacts, but otherwise replacing the switch would probably help as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BIG-COUNTRY
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Nov 27, 2005 06:14 PM
