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Has anybody heard of problems with thr Ranger Door Locks?
Both P/W Door Locks failed within a few weeks of each other. Seems like the mech. engages..."buttons" move, a little. But, they don't throw the whole way.
I've gone the route of lubricating the PW Lock Mech but, results were zero...
Will be interesting to hear the inputs on this one, as my passenger side door lock began acting up exactly the same way you describe, this past week & I was about to tear into it for a lube job.
So, maybe it's the ground point for the solenoid, thats loose or corroded up.
Anyone know where ground point G103, for the door locks is located?????
When I bought my 2006 Ranger, I specifically made sure the truck did NOT come with power windows or locks for that reason. After several years, they just stop working.
I've had 3-'99s that had PW PDL with no issues. 1.)traded at 37K 2.)totalled at 745mi. 3.)traded at 182k
Paw Paw, If I remember correctly there is a ground wire that goes back through the door, ...through the Door boot grommet...and secures to a point in that lower kick panel areas. (L & R-side)
I don't have my "Ranger Binder" here with me so I can't confirm..... It maybe worth a look?
i have a 2000 ranger ext cab it came from the factory with power locks but when you push the button you can here the locks trying to work but nothing happens. It does it on both sides. I tried both switches and the keyless entry nothing works. Do you have and sugestions that i could try to fix it?
That would insinuate the actuators are either out of line, not receiving enough current, or they are bad. I put PDLs in on mine and I had to make sure that they were lined up.
My guess on yours, since they are factory PDLs, is that the actuators are bad. Shouldn't be hard at all to replace. Most actuators have 2 wires. One for + and - signal. One for lock and the other for unlock. I would imagine that the same would hold true for factory actuators. You can get generics on eBay for about $5-$10 for a pair, but you would have to do a custom install job that wouldn't be hard at all. Lemme know if that's the route you want to go, and if so, I can help you out with it.
I don't think it's the solenoid...? The door locks move or wiggle when I press the electric button. It just seams like it's tired and refuses to work anymore.
NOt sure, but it cant be too complicated.. But the notion of buying a vehicle without PW/PL because they might break is crazy talk. I have owned numerous vehicles all with PW/PL and none has ever failed, and if the PL failed, you could always use the key...The satisfaction of knowing your PW will never fail (because they are manual) cannot possible compete with my satisfaction of years of rolling down any and all windows I desire in vehicle with only my finger moving..
My old Explorer had a similar problem on the passenger's side door. Turns out a plastic piece that connected the rod to the actuator broke and was catching only part of the time, so it only unlocked/locked halfway. Not sure if you want to take apart your door to take a look...
I don't think it's the solenoid...? The door locks move or wiggle when I press the electric button. It just seams like it's tired and refuses to work anymore.
Mine had the same symptoms. Sometimes in a blue moon if you hit the unlock button 3 times it would open. Ford had a bunch of bad solenoids around those years.
Both P/W Door Locks failed within a few weeks of each other. Seems like the mech. engages..."buttons" move, a little. But, they don't throw the whole way.
I've gone the route of lubricating the PW Lock Mech but, results were zero...
I've been re-reading this post a few times now, this is really bothering me....
By going through and lubricating the "mechanisim" I assume you have popped off door panels already?
If not, I'm curious to see what the internal linkages are doing while you are operating the buttons.
That would be the place I would start. It sounds like the Solenoids/actuators are firing. But it also sounds like you have linkage/blockage issues.
It almost sounds like an B & E attempt gone bad... There is supposedly a "break-away" in case someone uses a Slim Jim or coat hanger and pulls/pushes the wrong way. It really sounds like this plastic or Nylon "break-away" has already broken away.
Edit: For kicks and giggles... have you/ would you pop a door panel off and "disconnect" the mechanical linkage to the actuator? I'm curious to see if it fires w/out any added resistance.
Last edited by FTE Trigger; Jul 24, 2006 at 07:08 PM.
I cant say what the problem is in your case, but I do know what I did on my '99 when the power locks quit working.
I just bought some TV tube cleaner from Radio Shack ($10 a can) and sprayed it into the cracks around the lock/unlock buton and let it seep in. I wiped up the remainder of the spray, and hit the button a few times and it worked like new again, no more problems with it again.
I suppose you can use a electronic cleaner spray too, like for use in cleaning keyboards.