I did Pop off the panel...The mechanisim operates...but, your correct...there seams to be a linkage problem, because "things" are moving in the linkage...just not enough to throw the locks. Odd thing is that the more I work the buttons, the actuator; actuates less each time I press the button. Almost like when a battery is running out...I have to wait a few moments for the Locks to "charge up" again. This seem a bit odd also.

 

Dang Hd410 that kinda sounds like a weak battery, or poor electrical connection to me!!!!

Is the engine cranking speed ok, or does it sound like the starter motor is slow & struggling some, when trying to start????

If so, how is the state of charge on the battery????

With a digital volt meter, it should have a unloaded voltage reading of 12.6 volts DC or more, to be at full charge, 12.06 volts = 50% charge, 11.9 volts = 40%, 11.75 volts = 30% .

If the battery state of charge looks ok, check for undue votage drop to the lock solenoids.

If you find a sizeable voltage drop to the locks, back up & begin looking for connector contact coorosion, loose connectors, or damaged wires, all the way back to the fuse, for the door lock circuit & it's ground point.
If that checks out ok, look to contact problems in the door lock switches.

My 99 Rangers locks began working just fine yesterday, for no reason, so I suspect I have an electrical connection/contact problem in the passenger side system somewhere, so now I'm going to wait until it acts up again, then begin wiggeling some wires, or opening & closing the door until I get some reaction, so maybe I can narrow it down some, before taking everything on the passenger side apart.

I dislike the thoughts of pulling door & kick pannels to try & run down a intermittent problem, but sooner or later I'll just have to bite the bullet I suppose. lol

 

Thanks for the input! it sounds just like its working but just doesnt have enought power to unlock the door.

 

This sounds like another thread that was going sometime earlier this week? Let me look...

EDIT!.. Here it is... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=511356

 

And exactly what does that do to help fix this users problem??

Both of these posts sound like a bad common ground. When it opens up the doors will be somewhat grounded through the hinge/latch and cause the same
effect.
Dave

 

I agree, it sounds like a faulty ground for the system.

I began having the same problem with my 99's passenger side electric door lock last week. It's since cleared up, so I'll just have to wait for it to act out again, to begin my troubleshoot.

My system wiring pictorial shows the ground point to be G-103, but doesn't give it's location. Also noticed other things are also listed for this ground point, so it must be a common spot somewhere in the front of the cab, likely behind the dash on the firewall, or behind one of the kick panels, but does anyone know exactly where the ground point G-103 actually it is?????

 

PawPaw forgive my memory, I don't have any ford wiring doc's any more. But I think the grounds your looking for are one of two. One is behind the driver side kick panel where the emergency brake release mounts. The other is under the center console where the RCM mounts, but I seem to remember it has more to do with gauge grounding, then the first one. You may want to check them both. The ford wiring book has the clearly called out, if There anyone left on the board that has information rather then opinions.
Dave

 

TRY This!......

 

I' guess I'll resurrect both....

 

...Merged threads>>>>>

 

Cool the button does Work! Thanks Tim!

 

OK, good post on location of the ground points!!!

Just in time too, as now both door locks began acting up just as Hd410 described above. The more I tried them the weaker the action got. Wit a minute or two & they would be stronger. didn't make any diffeence if I used the remote or door switches.

SO, that should be a clue too.

Looked for the ground pont on the drivers side inner fender, thats supposed to be the ground for the passenger side lock.
It's just where it's supposed to be, mid way, high up, just about inline with the front end of the power distribution box.

My connections were clean, bright & tight. There were two lugs there, (black wires), I burnished/cleaned both lugs just for grins, with a "eraser stick" & reinstalled the fastner, who's threads were in good condition too, no corrosion at all, as were the fastner threads it screwed into.

SO, no change in operation for me so far.
Heat & humidity got so bad I had to give it up for today.

Tomorrow, I'll pull the kick panel & check that ground point too.

With them not working well with the remote either, kinda makes me suspect a bad ground, or wiring, rather than a votage drop through the door switches, we'll see.

 

today i looked into fixing the problem but i still found nothing. i found something inside the dash it seems to be a relay of some sort. its right next to the a/c ducts int the center of the dash when i press the buttons to unlock the doors i can hear a noise coming from hear and if i put my hand on it i can feal something inside of it?does anyone know what this does? is it for the alarm or just the locks?

 

Hey Nascarfan (dude) The Thing A Ma Gee Is The Relay For The Electric Door Locks. I Found It Too But Could Only Touch It With My Finger. Couldnt Figure Out To Take Off The Panel Below The Stero, Where I Can Gain Access To The Relay. I Cant Think All Of My Doors On My F-350 Crew Cab 2001 Can All Go Out At The Same Time. I Have The Same Kind Of Reaction You Do With Them Trying To Work And Sometimes Do. There Is No Way We Have A Bad Ground????? I Think Its In The Relay Under Dash And They Points Are Old And May Need To Be Cleaned Or Replaced? Can U Tell Me On A 2001 How To Take Off The Panel Right Below The Radio. The Ash Try Is Attached To It. Found The Two Screws That Hold The Slide Out Ash Try, And The Two On The Bottom Of Panel , But Cant Seem To Get To The Top Ones To Remove The Panel All The Way. Thanks For Your Time. And The Dude That Has To Move The Windows By Hand Why Dont U Just Use A Dial Phone At Home And Dont Use The Garage Door Opener Or Your Stove , Or House Heater, Or Bathroom, Just Go **** In A Outhouse? Get With The Modern Stuff??? Ha Ha Just Kidding?

 

I did find out that it was not the relay in the dash that was casueing my problem, it was the actuators themselves. I got new set of these for my birthday in february and put them in. now the locks work just fine. if you have the keyless enrty remote fob and it still works for the panic button, then the relay should be fine. its probly just bad actuators. I asked the dealer and he said that its not to rare of a problem for the actautors to go out.