Help! Engine Won't Start...
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Surprise,Az
Help! Engine Won't Start...
2001 7.3 PSD refuses to start. New fuel filter (canister was full of fuel), pusher pump runs when ignition switch is on, engine cranks at normal rate (not fast or slow), it just will not start. I shot ether into the intake and the engine stumbled as if it wanted to start. PCM says no codes/no problems when scanned. Oh yeah, I just filled the tank too. Please help, I'm ready to jump!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Whoa, hope you had those batts tested before replacing. Let me check your sig for vehicle info and perhaps you could provide some background on the truck and the problem in the meantime.
BTW, welcome to FTE. Hopefully we can have you up and running soon.
BTW, welcome to FTE. Hopefully we can have you up and running soon.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Surprise,Az
2001 f250 psd 7.3, manual trans, 4x4, extended cab.
About six months ago, stopped at a drive-thru, turned it off so the lady could take my order and it would not start. Waited half an hour and fired right up. It has done this 4-5 times since then. Friday night it did it but started right up a minute later, got home and now will not start. One battery was indeed bad, but replaced both anyway. Had already bought CPS, so installed that today. Replaced fuel filter too. With ignition switch on, can hear feeder pump running, and the filter housing was full. Checked all the blade fuses under dash and checked maxi fuses under the hood- all good. Checked the inertia switch in passenger foot compartment and it was not tripped. I am stumped. Was told it could possibly be the ICP sensor, but I do not know where that is. Thanks for any help.
About six months ago, stopped at a drive-thru, turned it off so the lady could take my order and it would not start. Waited half an hour and fired right up. It has done this 4-5 times since then. Friday night it did it but started right up a minute later, got home and now will not start. One battery was indeed bad, but replaced both anyway. Had already bought CPS, so installed that today. Replaced fuel filter too. With ignition switch on, can hear feeder pump running, and the filter housing was full. Checked all the blade fuses under dash and checked maxi fuses under the hood- all good. Checked the inertia switch in passenger foot compartment and it was not tripped. I am stumped. Was told it could possibly be the ICP sensor, but I do not know where that is. Thanks for any help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
OK Mike, has it ever started with the new CPS? If not, try putting the old back in and give it a shot. Based on your post you seem to have some mechanical savvy so it shouldn't be that tough. Wouldn't be the first DOA CPS but also could have a faulty connection.
Now that trying to start on ether is another story. Not at all related to the computer refusing to fire injectors because it does not know what the crank is doing. That ether will not start and keep an engine running with no fuel. I'm thinking CPS problem right now. Check all your connections. We'll be here.
Now that trying to start on ether is another story. Not at all related to the computer refusing to fire injectors because it does not know what the crank is doing. That ether will not start and keep an engine running with no fuel. I'm thinking CPS problem right now. Check all your connections. We'll be here.
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If your oil level is alright I have to lean towards the CPS in one way or another. Electric contact cleaner spray every connection you can get to. Also, my last episode with symptons like yours finally ended up being my Superchip. Just removed it and drove it stock til I got a new one. Let me tell you, that was one long week. You say the cranking revs are the same as usual so you can pretty much rule out batteries, when it does crank does the tach react......damn I'm a poet.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Surprise,Az
Oil is full, tach moves when cranking, cables are clean and tight, all sensor connectors are sprayed, and just attempted to start with the ICP sensor disconnected and it still won't start. I read in another thread that with the ICP sensor disconnected the PCM should go into a limp mode, but it still didn't start. I don't mind the challenge of all of this, it's like a mystery novel, but it was 119degrees today. This little problem may spell the end of me. Too hot to play shade tree mechanic... The only mods to the truck are straight pipe in place of muffler, and a K&N cold air set up. No tuners and no chip. Thanks again for all the suggestions.
Last edited by PSDmike; Jul 24, 2006 at 01:12 AM.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Surprise,Az
Has not run with new CPS installed. I thought by spraying it with ether would let me know if I had some internal breakage not allowing it to run. The fact that it attempted to turn over on ether tells me that all is OK except for the fuel supply/delivery system. Now I just need to know why those injectors won't spray.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
So put the old CPS back in and give it a whirl. That's the last thing that kinda worked, right? That's what I've been trying to say.
I had an another Ford vehicle that had a CPS with intermittant problems. That old CPS would always work, eventually. PITA, but it would eventually work. Just want to make sure the new CPS is not the problem. You don't have a chip or tuner do you?
I had an another Ford vehicle that had a CPS with intermittant problems. That old CPS would always work, eventually. PITA, but it would eventually work. Just want to make sure the new CPS is not the problem. You don't have a chip or tuner do you?
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Surprise,Az
No chip, no tuner. I'm afraid I may need to send it to the Dealer (it pains me and my wallet to say that). The CPS is an IH unit and was brand new, but before we go to the dealer I'll try putting the old one back in. Is there a chance I could have sucked some air into the fuel system when I changed the filter? Also, maybe this is unrelated but at this point...back around December I attempted to upgrade the sound system by adding an amplifier. I popped a fuse and didn't have a replacement so I wired the ignition hot wire for the radio directly to the constant hot to the radio. It worked great for about four minutes, and then it popped too. I replaced both fuses and everything worked well for about ten minutes and then it was all over. I re-replaced the fuses to no avail...still no tunes. In addition, now when I start the truck there is a delay before any accessories will function; i.e. start it, wait for a chime about 25-35 seconds later, and then you can roll down those windows. This is like confession.