F250 7.3 PSD

Several days ago I noticed a clicking (from under the dash?) and a delayed start. Today...went out to start the truck...and it just cranked, and cranked, and cranked...never started.

I don't think it is a battery problem because it seems to have no problem turning the motor...for long periods of time.

Is this a fuel pump problem?

Suggestions / input would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

Salty,

This is a common problem. Your problem is probably battery(ies), gummy terminals, cables...

Check out these links for threads involving the very same subject:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=510021

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5097...ad.php?t=509710<!-- / message --><!-- no sigs except when logged in --><!-- controls -->

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=502383

 

Kinda sounds like your CPS went bad to me. Could also be battery terminals. I would check those first, then the CPS.

 

USe a DMM and check the batteries. Clean the terminals and cables and put them back on. When you crank it, check to see if your tach is moving. Could be CPS, but start with the simple things first.

 

I forgot to mention that the tach is jumping while I'm trying to start the truck. What is the signifigance of that?

 

It means you are getting enough juice to cause the tach to jump and electrical functions to come on when you attempt to start the truck, and also signifies that this is probably not a relay or similar electrical problem.

I'd place a bet on a bad battery. Even though your motor is attempting to start, this is probably the case. Diesels have two batteries, and require both of them to start. When you go to start the truck, two things happen. 1) your GPR or Glow Plug Relay comes on to heat the fuel and 2) your starter fires the motor. If you hear a clicking sound before you go to start, that is the GPR coming on. If one battery is bad or doesn't have full connection, the truck won't start. It'll try to start all day long and smoke like hell but no start.

Please read those other threads I linked you to, this has been covered many times before.
Clean your battery terminals, check the charge on your batteries, look for a bad connection & go from there.

 

If I have read correctly the tach moving during cranking means the problem is not the CPS. But something tells me that may be model year sensitive. Someone cleverer than me will get in here soon. If it is cranking over at anywhere normal cranking speed it is not battery related. Why the peeps above said batteries is a mystery to me. In your first post you stated it cranks just as usual.

 

If you turn the key on, can you hear the pump running? If not check your fuses first, then check the elec connections to the pump.

 

If the truck is spinning over normal trying to start but does not I have to go with CPS. I have seen this before.

However if you hear clicking and slow or no turnover I would go with battery. When the starter tries to turn it causes a large amperage pull on the battery and if the battery is marginal the voltage will drop and some of the clicking will be the relays dropping out due to low voltage. When the starter is disengage by release of the switch from start to run, the voltage will come up and the clicking will stop. So if this is the case my $.02 is battery.

Jim

 

I presume the WTS lamp is coming on and then going out before you try to crank, right? I believe this is timer controlled only and will not tell you whether the GPs are actually heating up or whether your GPR is bad. What is your ambient air temperature?

You should be able to hear the fuel pump run when you first turn the key. It is on the frame rail under the driver seat. Can always check for pressure at the filter bowl drain valve.

You can always try jumping it or using a charger.

If you've got fuel, and fire (functioning GPs) then it is likely electrical. (CPS) I don't like the sound of those clicking noises. Check the in depth threads already posted. A bad battery will crank the motor but not be able to start it in many situations.

 

Anybody want to check the oil level in the HPOP if its 3/4" from the top your good. Unplug the ICP sensor if it cranks its bad

 

Have you checked your oil or changed it lately? If its low, she isnt gonna start.

 

Usually in my case when my batteries get corroded or even just a little dirty my voltmeter will go up like normal then I hear a click and it kicks back down. Normally it's a loose cable on the post or something like that. Try to put a jump box on both batteries and let them charge awhile. If that doesn't work I would have to say CPS but that's only from the things I've experienced. Could be something different.

 

Alright, now that we are talking battery cables. Is the junction cable that joins the 2 batteries together at the passenger side postitive battery post known to be problematic? I have a happen every other week or so problem with a no start situation. It has been going on for a year but has always solved itself within a few minutes. What it does is barely turn over and I will release the key and the wipers will cycle one time. But one of these days I am going to be out in the middle of nowhere and it will fail completely. I sometimes suspect the starter (oringinal) as being the culprit. But I flat don't know. Is almost 180k and 7 years more than to expect from either the above mentioned cable, or the starter? I use the starter a lot in the winter time as I spend lots of hours in the truck on construction sites trying to stay warm, but too cheap to let it idle for hours on end.

 

Never had a problem with the "Splice" / Junction Box but dont forget to check the ground lugs where they attach to the frame.

If it is "Barely" turning over That sounds like an amperage problem Which is either a bad battery or a corroded connector