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I'm kinda limited on header selection with my Ranger though.
Oh, you noticed that too, huh? Kind of a tight fit...! I have a lot of old headers that I tried, and most of them seem to be oval port flanges which worked out well since I'm using GT40p heads. The ones I chose to use, the pass. side was almost a perfect fit but I had to rebuild the driver's side header almost completely. And I'm still not happy with it. Thought about getting the tri-y headers, I read that they're a good fit, Just didn't know how well they'd work with the P heads.
But yes, they've been building oval port headers to fit square port heads for years, so the oval ports are definitely bigger. Helps create an anti-reversion effect.
Last edited by TigerDan; Jul 16, 2006 at 08:33 PM.
Oh, you noticed that too, huh? Kind of a tight fit...! I have a lot of old headers that I tried, and most of them seem to be oval port flanges which worked out well since I'm using GT40p heads. The ones I chose to use, the pass. side was almost a perfect fit but I had to rebuild the driver's side header almost completely. And I'm still not happy with it. Thought about getting the tri-y headers, I read that they're a good fit, Just didn't know how well they'd work with the P heads.
If you're talking about the 5.0 in a Ranger, The tri-Y's fit better than than the Headman swap headers. Or at least with a small bellhousing trans. I can't say they'll fit the "P" heads though. They fit my Canfields with their raised by 1/2" ports and they fit the E7's, but only after grinding the bottom of the flanges at an angle to clear the head where it comes out past the port face. The left header fits the steering box and shaft like it was made for it, instead of an early Stang. The right header takes some "finagling" to get it into place, but clears the frame by a fraction of an inch. If you want more flow, they may not be for you. I'm extremely happy with em. Best $85 I ever spent ( used Ebay specials, nickle chromed too)
Last edited by TigerDan; Jul 16, 2006 at 08:34 PM.
I had mine carefully(!) fitted when I did the mock-up on a parts truck, and then when I did the actual install in my '89 I had a slight steering shaft clearance issue. I still had the steering shaft from my Mustang donor car which was smaller diameter and was a perfect fit...problem solved! I'm doing vacuum lines and such right now, just installed the upper manifold yesterday.
What mounts are you using? I used the 85-93 'vert mounts in mine. Engine's as far back as I could get it with the thermactor tube across the back of the heads. I;ve since removed that. But if you're still using it, the best one to work in a Ranger is the E150 tube. The backfire check valve is centered between the heads in the rear of the intake, it doesn't wrap around the pass. side head like the Stang one does.
The P heads aren't drilled for a thermactor (the Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 didn't use a smog pump) so I'm not using one. I decided to build my own mounts to locate the engine exactly where I wanted it, which was as low and as far back as possible.
I think the "low and as far back" statement in some swap manuals implies that stock mounts don'tget the engine low enough. With the 'vert mounts I have I've fit both a Vic Jr, Holley carb and 3" tall filter on a 289 Hi-po cleaner assembly under the hood. Ditto for the repro 3x2 setup which is also a high rise dual plane, 3 Holley 2 bbls, and the cast aluminum aircleaner assembly, also with a 3" K&N filter. In fact I fabricated a new base for this, in oder to swap ends on it to move the filter top away from the firewall. It too fit under the hood without problems. There's a lot of space top to bottom in there. The main problem is the motor's overall length.
Yes, it's a bit tight in there...but I've seen worse. Compared to the Tiger there's a ton of room! Now if we were swapping in a 460...but who wants to have to rebuild the whole front end on a daily driver? I like to do fabrication, but there was enough involved already without all that!
I'm using the EFI and long style serpentine drive and I still have plenty of hood and good radiator clearences. I have an aftermarket aluminum radiator set in the stock location and didn't have to set it up under the core support. Not enough room for a fan though so I'll run an electric pusher. I opened things up a bit in front of the A/C condensor for more room between it and the grill.
I've split this off from the original thread since we took it so far off track...
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