Need some quick help here. Yesterday myb bronco died while idling. No spit no sputter it just died and wont start again. The DTC it is throwing is 320 and thats all. Im out of town and dont have anything but my code reader on my truck and Its kinda vague about what this code is pointing to other than Ignition/distributor. Has anyone got more info on this code.

 

The information I have indicates it is a failed RPM sensor or the circuit for it. If the computer doens't know how fast the engine is spinning it may shut it down as you have experienced.

 

Well I've got her back home now (via piggyback) now I can at least do some better trouble shooting. The sensor your talking about is in the base of the dist. isnt it greystreak. If so thats about what Im down to I've just got to find out how to troubleshoot it. Put in a new coil and icm already to no avail Ive got power to the coil just no spark, and test light doesnt flicker so the circuit is never switching. Reminds me why I hate electical problems so much.

 

I can walk you through the diagnosis of this code using my 1996 CD factory service manual. Here's the description of the code.........

"Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0320 indicates two succesive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.
Possible Cause:

-- Low battery voltage.

-- Loose wires/connectors.

-- Open/Shorted circuits.

-- Damaged distributor cap, rotor, plugs or plug wires.

-- Damaged coil, ICM or PCM."

Here's step 1.....

JG2 CHECK FOR GOOD BATTERY
Is battery voltage greater than 12 volts DC with the key on?
Yes
GO to «JG3».
No
SERVICE battery.

JG3 CHECK VPWR TO PCM
Key Off.
Disconnect Idle Air Control (IAC) solenoid.
Measure voltage between VPWR circuit at the IAC vehicle harness connector
and ground.
Is voltage less than 1.0V?
Yes
VPWR to PCM OK. Go to «JG5».
No
VPWR is always being supplied to PCM. Go to «JG4».

Let me know your result here and i'll post the next step.

 

Fishalot Im good so far. Ready for next step. And thanks for this info.

 

You already answered this one but figured i'd throw it in there.

JG5 CHECK FOR SPARK AT COIL DURING CRANK

Using an Air Gap Spark Tester (D81P-6666-A) or a Neon Bulb Spark Tester (D89P-6666-A) or equivalent, check for spark during crank at coil wire.

Was spark present during crank?

Yes
GO to «JG11».

No
GO to «JG6».


JG11 CHECK FOR SPARK AT ALL WIRES

Using an Air Gap Spark Tester (D81P-6666-A) or Neon Bulb Spark Tester (D89P-6666-A) or equivalent, check for spark at all wires.

Was spark present at all plugs during crank?

Yes
GO to «JG12».

No
SERVICE distributor cap, rotor, plugs or plug wires. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs (REFER to Section 2A, «Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset»). RERUN «Quick Test».


JG12 CHECK PLUGS

Remove and check plugs for damage, wear, carbon deposits and proper plug gap.

Are plugs OK?

Yes
Not an Ignition problem. REFER to «Section 4A», Symptom Flowcharts.

No
SERVICE plugs. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs (REFER to Section 2A, «Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset»). RERUN «Quick Test».

If you still haven't found the problem by the end of this then we'll go into the symptom flowcharts and figure it out.

 

I just reread your post. Do you have a spark at the coil or just power to the coil? If there's no spark i'll post the other test procedures but I think your going to need access to a breakout box to troubleshoot any further. My CD assumes your a tech at a dealership that has access to all the good tools.

 

Fishallot I have her running now. I got it down to the pip sensor in the distributor this morning after reading your post. I found some more info on testing it and wasnt getting my ac voltage output signal from it. Picked up the part and replaced it this evening and she fired right up. Murphys law for me cheapest part, hardest and last to replace and it was the problem. Makes me wonder if the test the parts store did on the icm was right or if it was just to sell the part. I may check it myself before I can it. I am getting 2 new codes now that you may know more about.1351 and 1359 are now showing up I havent driven very far so I dont know If any more will show up but those both came up after propable 5 minutes of driving. Im going to make another post about them if I cant find any info from a search. The help is much appreciated. Thank you! Oh and by the way, it was no spark, just power to the coil.

 

Glad you got her running. Sorry I tried to lead you down the wrong path, I misunderstood what you said about power/spark at the coil. Just for grins and giggles and in case anyone else ever finds this thread in a search i'll post up the procedure for this code if you don't have spark at the coil however you do need a breakout box to follow diagnosis this way. I'll look up the new codes shortly and report back.

JG6 CHECK FOR ICM POWER

Key off.

Connect DI diagnostic harness to EEC breakout box, connect B- lead to negative post of battery, and connect ICM tee to ICM and vehicle harness.

Do not connect B+ lead of DI diagnostic harness to battery.

CAUTION:
Do not connect PCM to EEC breakout box when it is used with DI diagnostic harness.

Make sure PIP OPEN/NORMAL/SPOUT OPEN switch on DI diagnostic harness is in the NORMAL position.

Use DI overlay on breakout box.

DVOM on 40 volt DC scale.

Key on.

Measure voltage between J5 (ICM PWR) and J7 (B-) at breakout box.

Is voltage greater than 10 volts DC?

Yes
GO to «JG7».

No
SERVICE power open to ICM in harness or connector. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs (REFER to Section 2A, «Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset»). RERUN «Quick Test».

JG7 CHECK FOR PIP SIGNAL

DVOM on 40 volt AC scale.

Crank engine and measure voltage between J15 (PIP) and J7 (B-).

Is voltage between 3.0 and 8.5 volts AC?

Yes
GO to «JG8».

No
GO to «JG13».

 

Cool, good Idea to post the additional info, as I didnt find much when searching about this code. That last step is what put me onto the pip sensor no signal out. I did have better luck searching the new codes. From what I have been seeing It may be the new icm I bought from the parts store. Most of the threads I have read point to the aftermarket icm not being quite as good as the oem ones and a couple reported the codes going away after replacing the icm with an oem unit. Im going to measure and test my old one when I get home, and reinstall it if it looks ok. If you have some more info it would definately be usefull.

 

Looks like you'll need that breakout box for these two new codes as well. In any event i'll post up the test procedure in case it helps lead you down the right path. If you want any more steps for these codes just let me know.

Here's step 1 of testing for code 1351....

JG50 CHECK IDM SIGNAL AT PCM CONNECTOR

Key off.

Connect DI diagnostic harness to EEC breakout box, connet B- lead to negative post of battery, and connect ICM tee to ICM and vehicle harness.

Make sure PIP OPEN/NORMAL/SPOUT OPEN switch on DI diagnostic harness is in NORMAL position.

Use DI diagnostic overlay on breakout box.

Disconnect PCM.

DVOM on 40 volt AC scale.

Crank engine and measure voltage between Pin 48 (IDM) of the PCM connector and J7 (B-).

Is voltage greater than 1.0 volt AC?

Yes
REPLACE PCM. REMOVE all test equipment. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs (REFER to Section 2A, «Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reset»). RERUN «Quick Test».

No
GO to «JG51».

Here's step 1 of testing for code 1359....

JG60 CHECK BASE TIMING

CAUTION:
Do not use a remote starter while doing timing check.

Key off.

Install timing light.

Remove SPOUT in line connector.

Run engine at normal operating condition.

NOTE:
If vehicle is a No Start, GO to «JG6»

Is base timing within ± 3 degrees of specified base timing?

Yes
GO to «JG62».

No
GO to «JG61».

 

Thanks for the posts Fishallot but I dont have or have access to a breakout box. And from the prices I just saw I wont be jumping out and buying one soon either I cant find any info on further testing of the icm so I may just hook the original back up and see what happens. Since the pip was the only thing I actually found trouble in. The parts store I went to told me it was bad and I am begining to wonder about his tester.I was desperate to get her running since I was out of town and just took his word for it.

 

Well I have everything squared away now with now codes showing. PIP was the only actual problem aparently. I put the old ICM back on (the one O'rileys said was bad) and now the truck runs fine and tha 1351/1359 code have disappeared. Apparently the new ICM (grey) was the wrong one for my truck and that was throwing the codes. Guestimated that to be the case from searching posts in the forum. Thanks for the help Fishallot and greystreak.