I cut it off... and noticed that the "keeper" had dug itself into the shaft, and I had to really force it to get it off... There's no way I would have gotten it past the ruts it dug with an alen wrench...

Only **** I found at the junkers was for the headlights, but it does fit the shaft, and it's going on there (without that damn keeper)

I'll do some electrical tests in ~15 min... it's freekin hot out right now
~Nate

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/NathanEbert/Truck/Lights01.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/NathanEbert/Truck/Lights02.jpg

ok, I've got the headlights on, and did some testing.
With the headlights on, I have power to everything, except the blue/black wire in the frount right, and the tan? and white? wire in the back left.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...ights01etd.jpg
The wires that I put a white dot on are the one's that I'm talking about.
What does that mean? What do they control, and at which times? I cant read an electrical diagram, only 16, and dont have a clue what it's trying to tell me.

Tks alot
~Nate

 

If you do not have power on the tan/white wire, then that is your problem. The tan/white goes directly to the fuse box. Follow it back in the harness, and see if it's ok. Like I said earlier, several people have wrote in with this problem, and have found the tan/white burnt in two. You should have power on the fuse(I think it as f8?) on both sides of the fuse. The tan/white wire hooks to the fuse and goes to the switch.

 

Is there a better way to replace that wire, then just splicing in a new middle section, and hoping that the old ends are good? If I would apply 12 volts to the tan/white wire via jumper, what would happen?


My plan as of now, it to buy some 16ga wire (white or tan preffered), cut the old one about 2" after the connections (depending on if I can get at the fuse box one), and splice in that new wire...

Is there a better way to do it? Tks alot
~Nate

 

You can do it that way. You can also use your jumper idea just to make sure you are on the right track before you cut the wire.

 

Is there another way of replacing that wire? If so, is it easier or not so much?

I applied 12 volts to the blue and black wire, I did have full running lights.

I also applied 12 volts to the white and tan wire, and had switched running lights...

Guess that mean's that the tan/white wire's fubard, right?
~Nate

 

It sounds like the tan/white is bad. I verified again that it does come from fuse f8.

The easiest way to fix this is to run a new wire like you suggested. You will have to keep in mind though, that if this wire melted in two, it was wrapped together with the other wires, and some of them may be damaged if this is the senario that is causing the power loss. If you run a new wire, just keep this in the back of your mind in case you ever have any other lighting problems.

I was looking for the black/lightblue you are talking about. The diagram shows a black/pink at the lightswitch that turns into a black/lightblue. Diagrams have been known to be wrong, but it think we can assume this is the wire that feeds the domelight circuit. This wire gets power from the lightgreen/yellow going to the switch. The only thing this is for is to light the dome light manually when you turn the headlight switch **** all the way to the left.

So check for power on the lightgreen/yellow wire going to the headlight switch. It comes from fuse f7. If it's dead, and the fuse is good, then you have another wire that is dead, and this would also explain why the domelights do not work.

If this is the case, you may want to unwrap the harness and see what's going on. Before I did that though, I would find these two wires coming out of the fuse box, and pierce the insulation and make sure they have power. Sometimes funny things happen inside the fuse box, and you do not want to go to the trouble of un-wrapping the harness when the problem is in the fuse box.

 

The dome lights did work... I had the battery d/c when I was testing them

Anyways the black and blue wire feeds the clock and radio dimmer... Not sure what else, but it runs through the dash.

~Nate

 

FIXED


After I replaced all of my fuses, from shorting another wire, discussed in another thread... I forgot one, because after I checked continuity on the white/tan wire, and replaced the $20 switch, we took the fuse box off the firewall... Noticed that there wasnt any fuse in the spot for the running lights...

Want to know why I couldnt understand your diagram??? SIDEWAYS TO MY FUSEBOX Ugg, I'm stupid



It's fixed...


Moral of the story?

Check your damn fuses. Not just that they're not burnt, but that they're all there
~Nate