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I've got an 82 f150, but there isnt much action in that forum...
Anyways, I was labeling the wiring for the radio, and I shorted the radio wire... Replaced the fuse, and now I have power to that wire.
I'm not sure if it's coincidence, but my interior lights, cab lights, corner markers, and brake lights dont work (brake lights do light up when i'm braking though) My headlights do work
Basicly, when I pull the switch out to the first position, nothing happens...
I dont have any power at the fuse box, for the interior lights, going directly from the terminals to a ground (with a tester). I have power at all other circuts, so I know that my ground for the tester is good.
Make sure fuse F8, 15 amp is good. If it is, pull the headlight switch out, and make sure you have power on the tan/white wire going into the switch. If you do, make sure you have power coming out of the switch on the brown wire when the switch is pulled into the first position.
How do I get to the backside of that switch? I have power to all of the fuzes, except the 5 amp that controls the interior lights (and I did try checking directly to the terminals, but no such luck)
Fuse F8 feeds the running light circuit, and also feeds the interior light fuse. So that's why the interior light fuse is dead. There is a problem upstream with F8, or the tan/white wire. The tan/white wire is famous for melting in two.
To get the headlight switch out, go out and disconnect the battery + wire. Pull the headlight switch **** all the way out to the farthest position. Reach under the dash and feel the switch on the side opposite the wires. You should feel a small button. Push this button down, and then pull on the switch ****. The whole **** and rod should come out. Then loosen the nut and the switch should come out.
on the switch body under the dash you should feel a flat metal surface with a small button on it towards the dash end of the switch body,if the button is missing you should be able to find the hole where it was,if you find the hole first unhook the negative battery cable to keep from shorting anything else out then use a small thin object such as a nail to insert into the hole to release the **** and shaft
Yes, in order to get the light switch out, one must remove the dash bezel... in order to do that, you must remove the ***** on both the headlight and wiper switch...
I just noticed that when I turn the dimmer all the way, my dome light doesnt come on...
I'll check the wire with a continuity test, so that might rule it out.. What are the symptoms of a bad light switch?
I've tried pulling with a small allen wrench, and I cant get it to hit anything.
There's two places I tried pulling... With the **** in the off position, there's a flat spot in the shaft that leads to the ****... Then, with the **** on the full on position, there's a small cutout in the **** itself.
I tried pulling with a small allen wrench in both spots, no such luck
which area should I be pulling on, and is there anything else I should know before I cut the damn thing off???
I'll try the junkyard, but jeeze this is a ton of hassel for a stupid ****
~Nate
I have had trouble before myself. The keeper should be in the flat area of the shaft. One time I could not get mine, and had to sort of force it. I was afraid of damaging the switch, and it did get a little bit of play in it, but it still works ok. I think that was my first attempt at getting it off, and after that I had to bend the little tang back around. It's easier to get off now though, so I must have did something to make it easier.
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