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Tracking down a short!! Battery going dead!

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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 01:20 PM
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Tracking down a short!! Battery going dead!

Hey guys. I have a short somewhere and was hoping you guys can help trace it down. My battery keeps going dead every day and a half if I dont start it. I was told to pull the negative wire off of the battery terminal and put a 12v light tester between the wire and the battery. If it lights up, there is a short.
Well, I did that and there is a short. I pulled each fuse until the light went out to narrow down my hunt. It is fuse #110 I believe in the power distribution box under the hood. I pull that fuse, and the light goes out.
In the manual it says it is the trailer tow electric brake. When the fuse is pulled, my dome lights, door chime, radio, and brake lights dont work. I am a little confused. I messed with everything trying to find the short. No luck. Do you guys have any suggestions?
Ive unplugged the radio, unplugged my brake controller, checked my bulbs for my brake lights.......no luck!!
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 03:46 PM
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Check your radio, they will often do that. Always the first place I'd check when the battery goes dead after a couple of days but has no problems when driven daily. Although I've only ever seen it in cars with CD players.

Guess I should have read more closely you've already eliminated the radio
 

Last edited by jspence105; Jan 19, 2013 at 03:48 PM. Reason: not so samrt
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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sounds like that fuse also controls the GEM
 
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Old Jan 19, 2013 | 10:30 PM
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Had the same problem a while back. Check the wiper on the rear window. Mine was seized and could not park. It was trying to park all the time, even when the key was off.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by wcj
Had the same problem a while back. Check the wiper on the rear window. Mine was seized and could not park. It was trying to park all the time, even when the key was off.

Good suggestion I'm adding that to my list of things to check when it happens.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 07:59 AM
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Also put your hand on the alternator before you start it and see if it's warm, sometimes it is a drain. I think the starter does sometimes too.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 10:01 AM
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Go back and double check that fuse number and function. F110/Elect Trailer brake sounds like it's wrong.

See owner's manual..
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Go back and double check that fuse number and function. F110/Elect Trailer brake sounds like it's wrong.

See owner's manual..

It didnt sound right to me either. I did just double check it, the cover for the distribution box under the hood is easy to miss read. Its fuse #105 which is the Junction Box Battery Feed. Not sure where to go to find the cause!! Any other tricks to narrow down a short??
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wcj
Had the same problem a while back. Check the wiper on the rear window. Mine was seized and could not park. It was trying to park all the time, even when the key was off.

Not the cause this time, but I will have to remember that!!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2013 | 08:40 PM
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F105 is the main feed to the sub-panel under the dash.

When testing for parasitic draw, you do need to give the battery timer in the GEM module 40 minutes to time out before accepting a reading of current draw as accurate.

Repeat the previous test using an ammeter and pulling the fuses in the under-dash fusebox.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 04:49 PM
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Check the "Power" lighter in the dash...that is a constant on battery feed, although it is fuse #24 (i think) - maybe someone jumped that to get power for something and it is draining your batteries.

I know....
 
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Old Jan 22, 2013 | 10:17 PM
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Also make sure none of your overhead lights, under hood light, etc. are activated or on. Say if the door is ajar or the hood is open? make sure all your doors are closed and the hood switch is depressed when testing.
These will give you a false short reading and light up the tester with the method you are using to test.
 
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