Koeo test resulted in many a code. Im relying on others to help why this is a problem.

605 pcm rom test fail

1274 Cyl #4 High to low side open

278----cyl 6 contrib balance fault
281----cyl 7 contrib balance fault
284----cyl 8 contrib balance fault

buzz test initiated and then failed for? i have no clue what this face it but it looks cool


what is high to low side open? I just fixed my uvc harness earlier last week on the pass side. How are the cylinders arranged? Is 8 pass side cab and 1 Drivers side core support forward with alternation?8642pass side-----7531drivers

 

Hey it took me only a few seconds to find this


7.3L DI Engine, Cylinder and Fuel Injector Location
[img]file:///C:/TSO/tsocache/KENNEDYS_3376/VYC~us~en~file=A0008012.gif~gen~ref.gif[/img]

 

12. Cylinder Contribution Tests
Purpose:
To test individual cylinders and injectors to determine if all are contributing equally to engine performance.

Note: Only California vehicles will set a Continuous Misfire DTC. Both 49-state and California vehicles will set a KOER Cylinder Contribution Self Test code for a low or non-contributing cylinder. If any CCT or misfire DTCs are set, GO to Pinpoint Test NA to diagnose the fault.


[img]file:///C:/TSO/tsocache/KENNEDYS_3376/VYC~us~en~file=DA1494B.gif~gen~ref.gif[/img]



Recommended Procedure:
The A/C must be off and engine oil temperature above 21°C (68 °F) to run Cylinder Contribution Self Test. This test will determine if all cylinders are contributing equally to engine performance. The PCM will test all eight cylinders continuously during the test; there is no change in engine speed or operation that can be detected by the technician. The test checks for cylinder-to-cylinder decrease in speed and sets a code if the decrease is too high. A fault must be present at the time of testing for the KOER Cylinder Contribution Self Test to detect a fault, so the engine operating condition at which the idle is worst will produce the best test results. If a fault is detected, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be output on the data link at the end of the test when requested by a scan tool. Only a hard fault code (DTC) will be displayed.

Possible Causes:
Failing this test could indicate mechanical engine problems such as:

• broken compression rings
• leaking or bent valves
• bent push rods
• bent connecting rods
• damaged rocker arms
• faulty injector assembly

Go to the workshop manual for base engine diagnostic procedures.

If the base engine condition meets specifications, the injector may not be functioning correctly and will need replacement. The solenoid and wiring should have been checked in earlier tests. Verify KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test passed.

 

O I guys you all cant see what I cut and paste opps.

 

Look Im talking to myself and Ive narrowed down my own problems. Go me. Im wondering if Im going to be able to talk myself into fixing them. Arg.

 

i would go over the wiring again to make sure nothing has come loose but my guess is some of the injectors are getting worn

 

Yeah if the injectors are worn, I should not have a electrical issue right? Hmm just should be gushing fuel into cylinder.

 

kennedy your cylinder number is backwards i believe. evens are drivers side, odds passenger, number starting from front of bay. I feel for ya, I've got a 7.3 I'm rehabbing as well. what worries me most is that pcm rom fail. the rom is what holds the programming. if that's hosed, all bets are off about the validity of the other codes (IMHO), I would research that code a little, I don't have my service manual open to help right now, sorry, would have to boot up another computer. Just my $.02
Chad

 

Thanks ccg, I found it all out in the moments while I posted. Now here is an update. Did all the pinpoint tests tonight. Pulled the Idm plug and tested all the Ohms for all the injectors. Before that I pulled the valve cover on the drivers side. I believe the problem was right there since that UVC harness was completly missing its clip too. I greased with dielectric, put in new clips pulled all ohms greased other side and so on. In the process of playing around I undid the abs plug and put back on. Now for the ride home of 5 miles

Abs light comes on, speedo freaks out and quits, overdrive light starts flashing.....WTF now?

 

had same problem on my truck. ensure your abs plug you fiddled with is good. if it is replace the vss/rabs sensor on the top of the diff pumpkin. $20 part (got mine at o'reillys) it is a hall effect sensor that counts the passing of ring gear teeth i believe. it is used to measure rear abs breaking function, along with the speed. i forget the borg werner part number statrs rabs***. don't look up a vehichle speed sensor, it gives you something that looks like it should go in the tranny. it is a rear abs sensor. orielly's dude had to actually get the paper manual to compare pic with part in hand for me. 10 minute fix. that explains the abs light and od lights and speedo. your od light is your "check tranny light". since they all depend on this sensor, it's a good bet that is where your problem lies. just check connectors first though. from what i understand this sensor is right up there with the CPS for fail rates. appearently magnetic hall effect sensors don't like thermal cycling in the long run. hope this helps.
Chad

 

Thanks Chad,
I got her fixed at 1:40 this morning. The green grommet on the abs slid out and was between the red prong covers and the connectors. Disassembled, put back in its place and all is well.