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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 01:17 PM
  #16  
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So I should put 2 hole in each side of the box for the ports right, that will work?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 01:28 PM
  #17  
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From: Greenvile, SC
Originally Posted by 99Trigger3_0
...And its calling out port specs. 3" Dia. by 6.75" long. (simply put)

2-ports per woofer.
2- per woofer / chamber


Yeap!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 01:28 PM
  #18  
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I just talked to my dad and he said that he was going to put like a chrome railing insted of the L brackets and silicone it up would this work? Since it is goin to be ported does it have 2 be air tight around the seams and stuff?? I was also wondering how would we get the wires from the amps 2 the subs and make them air tight?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 01:39 PM
  #19  
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i'd still seal the seams... Jus' wouldn't go nuts with the sealant material.

For getting your wires from point A...into point B (the box) i'd use these.










Commonly referred to as speaker termination cups.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 01:43 PM
  #20  
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You would probably be using the larger gauge speaker wire.

So you may want to find some that accept those larger cables or even banana plugs.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2006 | 01:44 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 99Trigger3_0
i'd still seal the seams... Jus' wouldn't go nuts with the sealant material.

For getting your wires from point A...into point B (the box) i'd use these.










Commonly referred to as speaker termination cups.
Do you think chrome rail and slilcone will hold the box from falling apart from these monster speakers?
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 12:05 AM
  #22  
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Well, if you're making the box purely out of glass, probably not. If you're framing it out with a nice wood, then yeah.

Ryan
 
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Old Jul 8, 2006 | 12:09 AM
  #23  
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he's referring Lexan as to being "Glass"
 
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Old Jul 9, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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I already said that I WAS NOT using glass I was using Lexan
 
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