Glass box
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
A glass box? I wouldn't dare use real glass for obvious reasons, but you could build a box out of MDF or the like and put a window of plexiglas or a similar material. You can see examples on eBay, etc.
RP
Zach
RP
Zach
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From: Pleasant Hill, MO
People put plexi in all the time, mr. ****... 
I wouldn't make the box out of glass, but I'd use a wooden frame of some kind and mount the glass in if you want to do it that way. Are the subs in a place where a lot of people can see?
Ryan
I wouldn't make the box out of glass, but I'd use a wooden frame of some kind and mount the glass in if you want to do it that way. Are the subs in a place where a lot of people can see?
Ryan
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From: Greenvile, SC
I Love some Lexan... use the stuff nearly everyday. It would also work great for speaker enclosures! You can get really creative with the stuff if you had the time! But if your looking for material easier to work with ....with ordinary household hand/power tools. The MDF would be the way to go!
But if you can get your hands on a Rotozip type of tool (variable speed is much better) and a Good jigsaw....Drill, and a small handful of other tools and supplies the Lexan will give you a bit more freedom (I think) for creativity! 3/8s or thicker Lexan would be what I would use.
But if you can get your hands on a Rotozip type of tool (variable speed is much better) and a Good jigsaw....Drill, and a small handful of other tools and supplies the Lexan will give you a bit more freedom (I think) for creativity! 3/8s or thicker Lexan would be what I would use.
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Originally Posted by 99Trigger3_0
I Love some Lexan... use the stuff nearly everyday. It would also work great for speaker enclosures! You can get really creative with the stuff if you had the time! But if your looking for material easier to work with ....with ordinary household hand/power tools. The MDF would be the way to go!
But if you can get your hands on a Rotozip type of tool (variable speed is much better) and a Good jigsaw....Drill, and a small handful of other tools and supplies the Lexan will give you a bit more freedom (I think) for creativity! 3/8s or thicker Lexan would be what I would use.
But if you can get your hands on a Rotozip type of tool (variable speed is much better) and a Good jigsaw....Drill, and a small handful of other tools and supplies the Lexan will give you a bit more freedom (I think) for creativity! 3/8s or thicker Lexan would be what I would use.
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From: Greenvile, SC
I think if he/you could find some 1/2" Lexan that would be great! 3/8ths of course would be the runner up, you would just have to brace it a bit more to reduce flexing and reverb. As with most boxes you may have to baffle or even port it, depending on the type of speaker.
The quality of the finish product could be as strong if not stronger than MDF if done correctly. And the sound of course mostly be up to the ear of the "behearing" (beholder?).
So to answer your question the best that I can... "I think you could easily get some Realllly Deeep bass out of the set-up if done correctly."
Such as... internal baffling, Square cut corners and the use of IPS weld-on (an industrial Acrylic glue). I would use the glue on 5 of the 6 sides and use a Lexan-safe thread insert for the 6th side accompanied by a gasket of some-sort (thin layer of glued-on neoprene comes into mind). This will let you get in and out of the box as many times (for whatever reasons) as you would like.
There are websites out there to help you calculate the space/size and baffling necessary for a good box. Most will ask for a type or model of speaker being used for proper calculation. If I was spending the $$, I'd do all the calculations too...
The quality of the finish product could be as strong if not stronger than MDF if done correctly. And the sound of course mostly be up to the ear of the "behearing" (beholder?).
So to answer your question the best that I can... "I think you could easily get some Realllly Deeep bass out of the set-up if done correctly."
Such as... internal baffling, Square cut corners and the use of IPS weld-on (an industrial Acrylic glue). I would use the glue on 5 of the 6 sides and use a Lexan-safe thread insert for the 6th side accompanied by a gasket of some-sort (thin layer of glued-on neoprene comes into mind). This will let you get in and out of the box as many times (for whatever reasons) as you would like.
There are websites out there to help you calculate the space/size and baffling necessary for a good box. Most will ask for a type or model of speaker being used for proper calculation. If I was spending the $$, I'd do all the calculations too...
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From: Bixby, OK
Personally I think 3/4 MDF is about the best sound for sub-applications. It gives a nice sturdy sound, if it's built right. I wouldn't use tempered glass, if you get in the right kind (or wrong, depends on how you look at it) of wreck that tempered glass would shatter with violent force and tear everything apart. Lexan would be a better deal if you're wanting to show it off. There was a guy on ebay that was selling his custom box with a one-off MTX sub (this was about a year ago) and he was using 1" Plexi-glass with a sealed enclosure. Then again.. he was running 1500wRMS to it. But if you do the 3 ****'s, remember to make each sub have it's own chamber of air.
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Originally Posted by RomerB2
Personally I think 3/4 MDF is about the best sound for sub-applications. It gives a nice sturdy sound, if it's built right. I wouldn't use tempered glass, if you get in the right kind (or wrong, depends on how you look at it) of wreck that tempered glass would shatter with violent force and tear everything apart. Lexan would be a better deal if you're wanting to show it off. There was a guy on ebay that was selling his custom box with a one-off MTX sub (this was about a year ago) and he was using 1" Plexi-glass with a sealed enclosure. Then again.. he was running 1500wRMS to it. But if you do the 3 ****'s, remember to make each sub have it's own chamber of air.
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From: Greenvile, SC
Well right off the batt..The specs are callin' out for
2.4 cu.ft. of vol..
And its calling out port specs. 3" Dia. by 6.75" long. (simply put)
2-ports per woofer.
After running the "curves" with the spec. 40Hz.
This speaker can do some "goofy looking" things on the graph with some of those and other specs changed.
I have a PA rep. sending more details via. e-mail so I hope I can get / crunch more numbers to get the lowest these speakers can put out.
What is going to be powering these monsters?
Thought about all the amp wiring, locations and potential Good grounds nearby?
2.4 cu.ft. of vol..
And its calling out port specs. 3" Dia. by 6.75" long. (simply put)
2-ports per woofer.
After running the "curves" with the spec. 40Hz.
This speaker can do some "goofy looking" things on the graph with some of those and other specs changed.
I have a PA rep. sending more details via. e-mail so I hope I can get / crunch more numbers to get the lowest these speakers can put out.
What is going to be powering these monsters?
Thought about all the amp wiring, locations and potential Good grounds nearby?
Last edited by FTE Trigger; Jul 7, 2006 at 02:30 AM.
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From: Bixby, OK
Yea you would have to put up a sheet of "glass" in between each sub and make sure that it's sealed off (think: silicone). If you're doing this whole thing with the Lexan, it would also look cool if you had some stuff etched in the surface and then ran LED's around the edges so that the etched surface would glow.. pretty cool stuff.
BTW - I don't have a link to that site.
BTW - I don't have a link to that site.
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Originally Posted by 99Trigger3_0
Well right off the batt..The specs are callin' out for
2.4 cu.ft. of vol..
And its calling out port specs. 3" Dia. by 6.75" long. (simply put)
2-ports per woofer.
After running the "curves" with the spec. 40Hz.
This speaker can do some "goofy looking" things on the graph with some of those and other specs changed.
I have a PA rep. sending more details via. e-mail so I hope I can get / crunch more numbers to get the lowest these speakers can put out.
What is going to be powering these monsters?
Thought about all the amp wiring, locations and potential Good grounds nearby?
2.4 cu.ft. of vol..
And its calling out port specs. 3" Dia. by 6.75" long. (simply put)
2-ports per woofer.
After running the "curves" with the spec. 40Hz.
This speaker can do some "goofy looking" things on the graph with some of those and other specs changed.
I have a PA rep. sending more details via. e-mail so I hope I can get / crunch more numbers to get the lowest these speakers can put out.
What is going to be powering these monsters?
Thought about all the amp wiring, locations and potential Good grounds nearby?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,392
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From: Greenvile, SC
Rockford! Good Choice..!
I would... (port'em)
I'd also make sure that your newly picked "real estate" location in the truck for this Beast has some pretty decent air movement.
Simply put... you wouldn't port a box... and have that port backed up to a wall or something similar in the truck.
So how soon till we...
?
I would... (port'em)
I'd also make sure that your newly picked "real estate" location in the truck for this Beast has some pretty decent air movement.
Simply put... you wouldn't port a box... and have that port backed up to a wall or something similar in the truck.
So how soon till we...
?