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Moisture is introduced in many ways, thru the dispensing and storage process.
Electrically connect a steel or other metal part to your piston and soak them in some fresh E85.
Isolators or insulators help with galvanic or electrolytic corrosion. Grounding produces a return path for the electrons produced by the movement of ions thru the solution, thus accelerating corrosion.
To perform "scientific" tests some scientific knowledge helps.
The people that perform testing of the type done in labs and automotive research centers have degrees in many areas of science for a reason.
Last edited by Torque1st; Jul 10, 2006 at 10:55 PM.
Someone mentioned "switching" to aluminum fuel filler nozzles?? They've been aluminum pretty much forever to remove the risk of steel on steel sparking. Before Al became readily available [pre WWII] brass was the material of choice.
Copper for a fuel tank? Could be done but it would be a [hate to say it] stupid choice. It's too soft, too weak, and is not cheap [much less available in the needed thickness] unless you stumble across a brewery getting rid of a big tank. To make a Cu tank strong enough to hold a normal 18+ gallon load, it would have to be VERY thick. Even then you would still have problems with metal fatigue and cracking. Galvanized steel is all you'll need, and if you're super paranoid you can have the tank sealed with an appropriate alcohol resisting epoxy.
E-torque, I had planned on hooking the ground wire to a sacrificial magnesium annode in the center of the bottom of the tank. Do you think I would be better off with the tank insulated from any other conductors ? If the tank is insulated, should I skip the magnesium annode ? The aluminum tanks I have weren't cheap, and I wouldn't want to damage them if I could avoid it. DF, on lunch @ work
When fermenting grains sulphides are created, these sulfides react with the copper and form sulphates and sulphites. While this isn't good for the lifespan of the still the removal of the sulphides from the distillate results in a much better quality alcohol if the alcohol is intended for drinking. This is why stills used to make beverage alcohol are traditonally built from copper. As far as alcohol for fuel use is concerned stainless steel would be a better choice for the tank and probably for the still as well. I know you allready ruled out copper for your tank but just figured I'd add this to the knowledge pool anyways.
How hard would it be to add a water separator to the fuel lines. I think diesel engines have these, (I know the ones in John Deere cotton pickers do) but that might be a way to avoid water getting to the engine. I know its a little off subject but that might be another way to narrow it down to just having to worry about corrosion in the tank and not the engine.
This Question is for the Ethanol & Methanol crowd. I was wonderiing since your comon metal to construct a still is copper, brass, or bronze sheet why then couldn't you construct a feul tank from it rather than SS. Since you can get copper alloys in strengths comparable to aluminum and Its superior to a Poly tank. I have read about the arguments against using copper lines for feul but if done right you could build the tank from copper and still afford the SS lines.
Also its far cheaper than SS So why not?
Will the alcohol attack the copper?
John
A couple of things. Stainless steel is not necessarily more expensive than copper. When you talk about copper alloy strengths you have to consider what you mean by "strength". Do you mean tensile, torsion, hardness, durability? Copper is subject to metalurgical attacks that aluminum and steel are not. There's nothing wrong with using steel for a gas tank, it doesn't even have to be "stainless" steel. There's nothing magical about methanol or ethanol.
Older vehicles and tractors had a sediment bowl to separate the dirt and crud, as well as water from the fuel.
On the price of stainless vs copper, stainless scrap price is considerably lower than copper... about 30 cents a pound vs 2.30... bought any wire lately?
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