Another 'Not Starting" Issue
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From: fulton, ny
Another 'Not Starting" Issue
With the key out, I have 12V on both sides of my soleniod as well as at the same post where the ignition switch signal comes from. Which I thought was strange. I took the lead that goes directly to the starter off the soleniod, and put it on the battery and nothing. I would have thought the truck would start. Took starter off, had it checked, it is fine. Replaced soleniod, same symptoms with 12V across both posts. Battery checks out. Had it checked with the starter Any thoughts? Could my battery have shorted? Had it checked two weeks ago and it checked out fine. Did have a fuel pump put in a few days ago, but seems to me that is unrelated. Maybe the cable from the soleniod to the starter?
91 bronco
302, 4e0d tranny.
91 bronco
302, 4e0d tranny.
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There should be 4 or 3 terminals on the solinoid. 2 big ones and two small ones, or maybe just 1 small one. The big one closest to the battery should be hooked to + on the battery. The big one farthest from the battery should go to the starter, and your alternator is hooked here also. The 2 or 1 small post are for the coil it's self. I think its the small red/blue wire thats the + trigger from the ignition switch that activates the coil and connects the two big posts directly toghether. The back plate of the coil acts as a ground, so the second small post doesn't need to be connected to anything. The small red/blue wire should not have a voltage on it when the ignition is off.
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From: fulton, ny
All that checks out. I am not sure how I can have 12V (tested to ground) on both sides of the soleniod with the key out, and the starter isn't turning. I do have 12V at the small ignition post as well. To me, these should cause the starter to rotate....Electricity is weird.
Last edited by althund; Jul 2, 2006 at 11:08 AM.
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Sounds like more than one problem. First if the ignition wire is always +, the relay will always stay engaged. Thats why your reading 2v on both sides, because with the reylay engaged, those are the same electrical point. Your igition switch is bad, or you have a short into the ignition wire somewhere thats making it stay hot. Now there is a few reasons why the starter may not be running, various sensors, corrosion,ect. I would take care of the ignition problem first, and then start checking things like the wire harness that plugs into the tranny.
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From: fulton, ny
hhhhhhmmmm. Could definitely be the issue. I had to replace the linkage in the column that actuates the ignition switch about 2 monthes ago. In doing so, the shift column no longer locks when the key is removed.
My mechanic happens to have replaced a few loose bolts on my tranny linkage when he replaced my fuel pump (twice in 4 monthes) a few days ago. I am starting to wonder if this is going to be the issue...
My mechanic happens to have replaced a few loose bolts on my tranny linkage when he replaced my fuel pump (twice in 4 monthes) a few days ago. I am starting to wonder if this is going to be the issue...
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From: columbus oh.
you might check the amps on both sides see if the starter side is very low amps then if it is lower its not enough to start. bad silinoid will do this and 12 volt dc positive can travle threw the same metal as ground its called bussing. not likely but have had it hapen in couple of older models due to short in collum traveling through body and engaging the starter on its own . we thought the truck was possesed ! does this veh. have a seliniod on the starter allso?
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From: fulton, ny
Put new soleniod on this AM have same issues.
Found another interesting issue. When I turn the key to start the truck, all power dies. To get it back, I have to disconnect battery and then reconnect. man oh man.
I can't jump the soleniod either to start truck. same issue arises as turning the key.
Have to tell you guys, the wife is giving me the 'get rid of the truck eye'.
Found another interesting issue. When I turn the key to start the truck, all power dies. To get it back, I have to disconnect battery and then reconnect. man oh man.
I can't jump the soleniod either to start truck. same issue arises as turning the key.
Have to tell you guys, the wife is giving me the 'get rid of the truck eye'.
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From: columbus oh.
well check to make sure you got a good switch and relays man your in a heck of a battle . and does it have a silinoid on the starter allso? a bad conection will break under load but key switch like massey said sure could be one of the problems! dont want to throw to much that way and have you chasing rabbits .double check all connections from collum out.
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From: fulton, ny
The small post on the starter relay (from the ignition). Should it read zero volts with the key off and 12V with the key in run? or is it the other way around? I would think it has to be the former.
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From: fulton, ny
did that, nothing. Put brand new wire to starter. Took lead that normally runs to relay and attached it to my battery charger. Attached charge negative lead to frame. Put charger on 40A and turned it on. Nothing. I did notice that the meter on the charger pegged passed 200A (did same with 2A setting). I am starting to thing my motor is seized. Nothing out of the ordinary (noises, performance, etc) has happened with the motor. But to go directly to the starter with power and not have it spin (knowing it is good).....can't be a good sign.
If I leave the lead to the starter off the relay and turn the key, the relay clicks like normal and the power to the vehicle does not go dead. Like it does when the starter lead is connected to it.
This isn't good.
If I leave the lead to the starter off the relay and turn the key, the relay clicks like normal and the power to the vehicle does not go dead. Like it does when the starter lead is connected to it.
This isn't good.