On my 390 I have been running a Crane xri, a Mallory resistance coil with a full 12 volts for two years now w/o any trouble. When I test drove it after getting it installed my engine woke right up and laid rubber like never before.

 

That Mallory coil must have a built in internal resistor to limit current, same as a standard low ohm coil powered thru Ford's resistance wire or a external ballast resistor. All the above still limit your primary and secondary current. If you use a coil with too low of resistance like bypassing ballast, resistance wire or a coil with too low of resistance like a performance coil you'll run a short while with a higher secondary current, overload the ignition module until it lets the smoke out. The XRI and XR700 work great when operated within their limited current switching capabilities.

.....=o&o>.....

 

I bought the Pertronics only because it was the only one that didnt have to be specially ordered in. I put in it and had the truck running 10 minutes later purrs like a kitten but i didnt replace the coil and i bought one just to replace it i dont want to be stuck because of a bad coil when i was right there changing stuff. They gave me the wrong coil anyway i found out they gave me a .6 ohm one a flame thrower 2 i went back got a flame thrower and it had 1.5 ohms this is what the flame thrower ignitor asks for. but i was kinda hesitant about changing the coil since it was talking about a ballast resistor i couldnt find out does anyone know where one is on a 1969 ford f100 2wd auto 360 v8 on the coil i had a little round thing stuck on top looked like a radio static thing and then a red wire going to the firewall these were both on the positive terminal on the stock coil then i had a black wire going to the points from the ground side of the coil all very simple so simple i donnt know if i should just stick on the new flame thrower 40,000v 1.5 ohm coil since now the stock one is running with a red wire from ignitor going to red on coil and black wire from ignitor going to black on coil then a red wire from the red on coil to the ignition switch. and also what was the origional voltage of these coils 6v? 12v and what was the output? this new one is 40,000 is that gonna be too much? sorry for the long post any answers would be appreciated or even someone routing me to a pic to where the ballast resistor is and what it looks like

 

they should have had a ballast resistor with the coil but when i got the one with my accel coil it was just a ceramic piece with a connector sticking out of either side of it. you simply plug in your red (12v+) wire to one side and it lets 6-7 volts out the other side. not sure about the 69's but on my 72 the positive wire to the coil runs a full 12 volts. the black wire that you mentioned is the ground wire that fires the coil. as far as the higher voltage output from the coil you can open up your plug gap some to allow for the hotter spark with mine putting out more i opened my plug gap to i thnik 4o thousandths.

 

im not tryin to sound contradicktive here but whats wrong with a dist from 76-79 with the goodold tryed and true duraspark II box heck 60 bucks for a new dist and 20bucks for a new box so for 80bucks every thing would be new and they easy to wire up in an old truck idid it on my 71 in about 20 min and my ol 65 both with 460's even run nos on both and it still fired it mabe im just old fashoned i like to have a cool ride that dont cost me a mint to build

 

In one of the other posting sessions about ignitions, I went to Summit on line and found the XR3000. So, I ordered a catalogue in hopes to mail in an order as I don't do credit cards. I couldn't find it in there? What gives? Is it only available on line or did I miss in the cat? I still plan on getting it. Just waiting for the Xmas bounus to "treat" myself.

 

The Summit catalog doesn't show eveything they have available. Have you checked Jeg's? I purchased my XR 3000 years ago at a local speed shop thru an employee at his cost.
My Summit catalog shows Crane HI-6 only. They show what makes them the most money in this case high dollar MSD units.
I see now on line (Summit) they show for the XR3000 pt# CRN-3000-0231 for $132.39, a universal unit with extra shutter wheels. They didn't show the standard unit with only one shutter wheel for Fords, with it you save app $16 on useless shutters unless you plan on installing on your Buick, Dodge?
Don't forget to order that LX91 coil for street not the LX92 for race, that will add $49 to your purchase.
Before you install this would be a good time to disassemble clean and lube the centrifugal advance unit, check vacuum unit.
Good wires also help if your due for replacement.
With the crappy electrical and ignitions on Rover Disco's I installed 8.5mm FireWire by Crane at 25 ohms per foot. Universal kit then cut to fit your application.

 

Yes. I also got a cat from them, ( JEGS ) and it's not there. There again, I guess you have to look online and search the full inventory. BTW, Summit's also showed a the same unit at approx. $119.00 Is that the one you mention for Ford? Seemed to have less parts in the photo.

edit: thanks for the heads up about the LX 91

 

What's strange on the photos comparing both units is they added more shutter wheels (0231) which you don't need but they did not show mounting brackets for the optical unit. Then again on the (0226) $119 unit with fewer wheels but show a few mounting brackets. You should be good to go with the $119 unit but first call Summit to verify. I would mount the coil and control box on the inner fender to stay away from engine and radiator heat. Heat kills electronics.

 

the parts mags never show it all their online inventories are complete though and you can still use the mail form just get the part # form online and double check spendy stuff with the tech guys before you buy it and if you order universal fit wires count them when you get tehm i ordered a set of accel 300+ race wires didnt bother to count em when i first got and when i got the rest of my parts in and went to install them i had 7 plug wires and a coil wire. called up the customer service and they sent me another set next day air at no charge. but it was still a pain in the butt.

 

Wizzard, haven't you heard? Duraspark isn't a sponsor and you can't recommend them on this site........At least that's what I was told when i recommended a company awhile back on a different subject. ;-)

All humor aside, the Duraspark is one of the better electronic ignition systems out there. Plus, unlike some other aftermarket kits, parts are available at all auto part stores AND your local Ford dealer. The Duraspark also retards the timing during startup unlike the GM HEI ignition.
The Duraspark is real hard to beat in terms of reliability, performance and price. But, once again I'll probably get spanked for recommending a product that is not a site sponsor.

 

Then why was there an article showing how to add GM parts to a Dura-Spank system to eliminate module failures which seem too common for me?

Standard points dizzy with XR700 and now XR3000 without any failure over 30 years use.

 

Back in the 70s I replaced a few wheel-well mounted Ford ignition modules, but most of that has been corrected since then. There are a few poorly made aftermarket Duraspark modules. However, I've also replaced a lot of HEI four-pin modules and a lot of HEI pickup assemblies. With that being said, how many posts are there saying "My Pertronix ignition system failed......"?

Nothing lasts forever.

 

I bought the Pertronix kit with the 1.5 coil last week and the instuctions said a ballast resistor was built into the coil, They also gave a test to do to determine if the truck already had one installed,my 1970 CS did not have it. I'v used the Pertronix kit in my 74 and 72 CJ5's with 304 V8 and my 69 VW beetle and have been very happy,in the beetle I just look at the key and it's running