Hey,

I am in the need of a welder. I need a welder that is best for farm machinery with metal thicknesses of, at most, about 1/2" and for, you know, the fun stuff, workin on the trucks. I have no idea which one is best for what. Would I need a TIG, MIG, Arc,? About how much do they cost, and would my local TSC handle them (gotta love those commercials...lol)?

TIA,
-Stormin Norman

 

A MIG would probably be the best for you, TSC has them, but I would get a good used one. For what you'd spend on a new machine, you could take at least two steps up with used.

 

O.K....is there a better brand than the others to buy? I'm not lookin for a cheap heap, I want one that'll last many many years
Thanks.

 

If your looking for something that will last, stay away from TSC and the box stores. Find a Miller or Lincoln dealer and buy a unit from them. Most of the box store welders are 2nd hand junk from Century, just relabeled. My personal welder is a Millermatic 251. Its a 300amp welder that will handle 1/2 steel in one pass. My opinion for the serious welders is to only buy 220V units. They are more $$, but will do more and better.
You didnt mention anything, but what is your welding experience?


Stryder

 

what stryder said. Millers are really good. Secondly, when machinery breaks out in the field, a small portable buzz-box is the ticket. I forget the name off hand, but there's one that mounts under the hood of a pickup which also has a 110v inverter built in. These were/are the rage of the four-wheeler/rock-crawler crowd back in the mid-90's.

 

YOu can't go wrong with Lincoln Electric or Miller. Both are top quality machines.

I have two Lincolns, a 135 that runs on 120V (thus convienent) and a 175 that runs on 220V for the thicker stuff. For the most part, I use fluxcore because of convienence - pop in the spool of wire and weld away. No bottles, hoses, or regulators. This is an easy way of learning the process with a minimal cost. I do recommend you make sure your machine of choice (if MIG) can be upgraded to use gas, because then you can make much better looking welds as well as strong welds when you're ready.

 

If you really want a excellent farm welder, and dont care about how much it will cost look into a welder generator like the Miller Trailblazer. These are great units and can be mounted in the back of a truck or small trailer. Set is up for stick and Flux Mig and you can weld anything, even in the middle of a field.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/...blazer_275_dc/


Stryder

 

Stryder, I have no experience with welding. I'm prolly gonna take a class or something like that. About that generator thing...I already have a PTO driven generator that puts out 35,000 watts. Would I be able to mount it on that? It has all the different outlets you need.
Thanks for the replies.

 

I would definitely recommend taking a welding class. If your serious about it, take a couple. I'd also recommend taking the classes before you buy a welder. In most farm related welding, your life may depend on it. Not something to take lightly.
Yes, the PTO generator you have will run a 230V welder with plenty of power to spare.
Feel free to ask for help, even during class. There a few professional welders, including myself, on this site who would be more than happy to make sure you do it correctly.


Stryder

 

Thanks, I fell better about this. I'm still planning on taking the classes but I want to know a little about welding before I take the class (so I won't get confused & behind) like the basics of welding, adjustments (if any), and how to do the actual welding.

Remenber, I'm still gonna take the class.
Thanks for the help.

-stormin

 

ESAB has a pretty good informational site. Havent had time to read all of it, but what I have read is good.

http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/OXY_handbook/589oxy1_1.htm


Stryder

 

stryder, you took my welder brand and model from my reply, Miller 251 with 30A spoolgun. Best welder so far after going thru 5 Mig units.
For little weld jobs the old style Miller 350 Synchrowave is waiting in the garage.
As posted by stryder take classes.
Learn the correct way to weld as bad welding habits are hard to break.
In class you'll get a better feel to the size (amperage) welder you'll need for your projects as well how many bells and chimes.
Try to use types of welding, stick, Mig and Tig then practice, practice.
Get a good helmet, I like the Speedglas 9000X auto dark with a wide field of wide, a bit of a pain going dark before welding outdoors in the sun.

stryder, what did you pay for your 251 out the door with accessories if any and when?

.....=o&o>.....

 

I gave $1700 cash and it came with the Stars and Strips auto-shade helmet. I didnt have any extra cash for the spool gun, but the only use I had for one would be aluminum. The rest of my $$ went towards buying the gas cylinder.
I've used most other brands and stages of welders (linde, century, esab, lincoln, hobart; 110V, 230V, and 3 phase 460V) and love Millers. That doesn't mean that the others are bad, they each have the right machine for certain applications.


Styrder

 

I purchased the welder in 8-02, 251, 30A, twin bottle base, two flow regulators (some reason they gave me two?) out the door cash at $2,506. Came back following weekend and they cut $75 off a Speedglas 9000X hood.
This shop was 21 miles from home, local Miller shop at 2 miles away wanted $826 dollars more for the welder and wouldn't budge on their price. They also wouldn't budge on the hood, there loss but I use them for gas. I owner own two 250 fu/ft bottles, argon and C25. A 250 bottle is about the max on the 251 with the single bottle rack as the front control end is light on it's wheels.
Hate those single stage orifice flow regulators vs two stage and floating ball, a friend at the Livermore Lab gave me two nice regulators and flow meters. Call it my tax dollar return. I have to get my own tri-mix bottle as I borrow a friends time to time and want to build and modify kegs for a home brew system, "got Bier?" The 251 and Synchrowave 350 (fully loaded in 1992 including spot weld) paid for by scrap copper off big job sites I worked on, i'm a 595 electrician.
Last big job they gave me 250" each # 8, 6, 4 and #2 SOO cord with 100 amp and 50 amp cord caps. On the Tig I used a Procon stainless pump, radiator and tank and built my own cooler system. All the above is hobby equipment not my daily money maker. With Bridgeport and lathe I have the toys to build special tools but need a plasma torch and Dake saw next.
Hows that 38 truck project coming along?
You check into the Miller Welds forum under Ask Andy?

.....=o&o>.....

 

Farmboy:
I revisited the Miller website (been awhile since i took time to browse) They have a technical library online: http://www.millerwelds.com/education/library.html


Beemer:

Sounds like you have all of my other dream toys! Yeah, my dealer tried to get me to buy the spool gun, but I prefer the standard gun. It gets it to those hard to reach/fit places. Nice score on the regulators/meters!
Ok, I have to give you a hard time, do you have any idea how much you could have resold that copper for? The price of copper is getting outrageous. $130 for 250' 12-2 w/ground around here.
My project vehicles have been temporarily put on hold. A 6 month old baby girl will do that to your budget and free time! The '38 was my Dad's project that I recently aquired from my older brother. He had no plans for it, so I talk him into giving it to me instead of selling it. Its basically just a rolling chassis. I'll get some pics posted in my gallery one of these days (I have more idle time due to the baby). I'm hoping start work back on my Mustang this winter. Its been one of those 10yr+ projects, so there is no hurry.


Stryder