Hi,I'm new to this forum but not to Fords. Already have a '68 Mustang, '68 Cougar, and '67 Parklane to play with. Just got a '65 F 100 to help get some yard work done and also satisfy my restoration habit. The first thing I have found out is that getting parts is nowhere as easy as it is for my Mustang/Cougar. One part is especially vexing for me and parts people in my area. I am looking for the correct vacuum modulator for my HD Cruiseomatic transmission. What a pain in the neck. Took several days to just stumble across the an ATP number for gasket and filter. Does anybody know of a manufacturer who makes the correct modulator for this tranny so I can move it in and out of my driveway and free my Cougar from the garage???

 

tbm3fan Welcome to FTE and the 61-66 forum.

You want Ford truck information? You have come to the right place.
You have me scratching my head on this one. The mod. aids in shifting but should not stop you from moving the truck. Place the selector on the green dot and the truck should pull forward if the tranny is working.

One of our more knowlegable members in this area will be along shortly with more help.

John

 

Actually it may not matter anymore. I thought I would drop the oil pan to clean out debris and the like that had to be down there based on what my valve covers looked like inside. Previous owner apparently didn't believe in oil changes. Well there is a 360 in the truck now and I thought there might be a little difficulty but turns out it is a major problem now. The pan will only drop 1 in. no matter which way I try it and the cross member doesn't help. A basic schematic seems to show that the oil pump is down in the pan and not just the oil pickup. I'm screwed. Can't get it off and can't put it back so now I have a dead truck in the driveway.

 

Hi and welcome.

If I remember correctly you have to raise the engine and remove the oil pump or remove the tranny to take the pan off, or maybe both.

The oil pump is bolted to the drivers side of the block at the front.

I havent messed with my 65 F-100 except for a carb rebuild in almost 30 years.

Wow, time flys, I am the second owner of my truck, my Uncle bought it new in 1965.

Someone will chime in soon with an answer for you hopefully.

Regards.

Richard...

 

welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about your engine.

with the mod valve, I went to napa. they have 2 that can fit it. one has a green line, and the other has a blue line..lol one of the 2 is correct I suppose. the man at napa told me to go ahead and turn the adjuster screw on it, and when I did mine started shifting like mad. It always went into 1'st and 2nd though even before the adjustment. That trans (according to my 69 ford manual) is an FMX. as John said, that mod valve should not stop you from moving it, it didnt stop mine. lol I drove it home about 20 miles in 2nd. Those driving behind me was p***ed..lol

Good luck on it, you will figure it out. they are great trucks

 

TMB: You are correct about the pump and pickup in the pan, but it isn't that hard to remove.
You will need to jack up the engine just enough to put a piece of 2x4 underneath the engine mounts. That's all it takes.
Watch for the following:
REMOVE the accelerator cable from the firewall. (You'll break it otherwise).
You have an automatic, so you don't have to worry about clutch linkage issues.
Watch for a fan shroud, radiator and fuel hoses, but you can often get away with not removing any hoses.

Once you have inserted the 2x4s under the rubber mounts (not the threaded studs), you will have enough room to get to things.
With the pan on the crossmember, remove the pickup tube, and leave it in the pan.
Remove the pump, and leave it in the pan.
NOTE THIS IMPORTANT ISSUE: FE engines use a distributor driven oil pump. The hex shaft must be re-inserted correctly, to prevent future troubles. Note that there is a tight (but moveable) retainer on the hex shaft. It is designed to keep the shaft in the pump when the distributor is removed, and prevent the distributor from pulling it out of the oil pump the next time you remove the distributor. Be sure to note that the retainer goes UP.
If you don't put it back in right, then the shaft will fall down into the pan next time you pull the distributor.

Now you can remove the pan and pump.

Installation is the reverse, but be sure the hex shaft is in the bottom of the distributor before you bolt it all together.
Also, you should be able to fully seat the pump against the block by hand; do not use bolts to draw it up tight. If it won't seat by hand, something isn't right.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

 

Well after 6 hours of painstaking removal of the old oil pan gasket through 1 in. of space I was able to get a new gasket around the top of the pan. Raising the engine was not possible given the lack of anything to raise it from above and the fact that I also had nothing that could reach it from underneath. So far, after running the engine a bit things look good there.

So today was spent swapping out the dirty altenator for the one out of my '68 Cougar which was in much better condition since the Cougar was upgraded. Then put in the new alternator to regulator harness which was much needed. Also fabricated a battery tray from a couple of pieces to make a whole one and now await my spot welder to finish it besides putting in the patch panel under the tray.

As for the modulator that is still a problem. The truck drove home with all speeds available except 3rd. So I drained the fluid, removed the pan, saw no filter, added one, adjusted the front band and then sealed it up. Put on the new modulator and nothing happened. Since the modulator is the only new part it would seem to be the culprit. Maybe it needs the screw adjusted badly only which way. Can't seem to find any info about why you would go clockwise vs. counter clockwise. It is definitely getting a vacuum signal from the manifold though.

 

Turn the screw on the mod valve 1/2 turn clockwise at a time and test it. go a max of 2 full turns. that is the advice I got from a guy at napa.

How does it shift? i mean does it seem to shift too easily into 2nd?

FMX are very touchy transmissions. Some of them will stick because they are mad from setting still. I wonder why it would not have a filter on it.

Check the kickdown rod adjustments! fmx can be very touchy transmissions with kickdowns. also make sure it retracts fully. make sure to have a good spring on it. levers can be in kickdown position and look almost normal and cause you to be driving it in second. unhook the rod at the trans and test drive it if in doubt. at the moment i dont have a kickdown lever on mine. I didnt trust the spring, and can never seem to think to get one while im out..lol it does shift into all gears though.

Be sure and put it in the green dot when driving it. I really dont see the purpose of the first D unless your driving it in the snow. seems to start out in second in that position. If for some reason you dont have the selector on yours, here is the actual order
P R N D D 1

hope this helped a little. Let me know how it goes. Sorry if I typed this a little weird, i should be asleep at the moment.

 

Isn't there supposed to be a rod about 1/8" dia that goes in the transmission end of the modulator? If the filter was missing maybe the rod is too.

 

Well the rod was present and it is a long one at that. There is also no kickdown rod on this setup since the previous owner mated a 1974-76 360 2bbl with the Cruiseomatic. I'll have to check that lever out to see where it is at the moment. When the truck was driven home I realized it used only 1 and 2 while in the large green dot. Figured there was a problem with the modulator and being 41 yeras old decided to replace it.

That is where the problem starts since there may be a modulator made for it but no one has any books around here that go that far back. Every parts book says see another book and it is that book no one has. If I had a part number, which is why I have a log book for parts numbers, then I could tell them and get one. Example, the gasket and filter set from ATP is part # B-41, which we found by chance. So that number goes into the log book along with 2 spares at home now. There is a NOS one on eBay which I will get but unfortunately the Ford number doesn't help at Napa or Monument Auto.

As for clockwise there didn't seem to be a lot of slack there. There was more counter clockwise yet still only seemed to get something for a moment. Either that or I have one hell of a high speed stall converter in there.