Starter Help
If your engine is not locked-up, your battery has enough voltage, no loose wires anywhere, and the starter selinoid (spelling?) is new - sounds like to me your starter is locked-up. Sometimes you can beat on the starter body with a hammer while someone else is in the driver's seat holding down the key and it will start.
Or you can take starter off motor and hook jumper cables from battery to starter. Safety first - first connect the cables to the starter (- to the body, and + to the bolt) then to the battery for 1 second. If starter spins (might move around garage floor a little bit), it is good. If it does not spin, it is bad.
Inline 6, huh? You have the worlds best gas truck engine (factory timing gears, no chain....much more good stuff about that motor...) - the 300 cu in/4.9L. This one should be easy to change out the starter. Most of the external engine parts are the exact same model as for most Ford V8s of the same year.
The new vehicles have the starter and starter selinoid (spelling?) all in one unit, for example Ford 4.6/5.4 V8. And costs $130. When 1 part goes out - you must replace the whole thing. And it is a pain to get to all 3 bolts - the top 1 is the hardest. Need a 1/4" drive, flex head, fine tooth ratchet for this job. Just be glad yours is not like this. Anyways....
Thats my $0.02 worth.
My 95 F150 I6 starter had been cranking slower and finally just clicked, the battery checked out OK.
It has the 2 bolt smaller body permanent magnet gear reduction (PMGR 4") starter with 4 brushes in a holder. The pair of brushes that connect to the solenoid lead were visibly too worn down.
I saw brushes and holder listed seprately in online catalogs but could only find the PMGR brush assembly on ebay, for $13. Locally a new starter was $140, no brush kits available.
I brake cleanered the insides and regreased and it really turns good now.
Alan P





