Oil Leaks
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Oil Leaks
Like any good Ford, my 88 F-150 leaks a little oil. I took it in and the guy I usually have work on my vehicles told me the oil was coming from the valve covers and the trans oil pan. He quoted me $500.00 to fix everything. Seemed a little high, but he says the upper intake manifold has to be removed to get to the right side valve cover. How big a job is that? I guess I need to buy a manual.
Thanks<O
Bill<O
Thanks<O
Bill<O
Junior User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 55
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From: NYC & Maine
I think the price sounds about right. Assuming you have an 8cyl with EFI, that valve cover on the right looks like a real pain because of all the stuff that has to be removed - I've never attempted it myself though. Also, from what I've been reading around here, the oil pan can be a pain to get to. Oh, wait, you said trans oil pan - I think that's a bit easier to do.
And there's my $.02 - but take what I say with a grain of salt, cuz I'm still a noob to Ford trucks.
And there's my $.02 - but take what I say with a grain of salt, cuz I'm still a noob to Ford trucks.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: Newark, Ohio
The top does have to come off to fix the valve cover gasket. The price doesn't seem too bad. The ford v8 is famous for leaks around the valve covers. I have propped the cover open as far as possible without removing the top end. I use blue goo and forego adding another gasket. If you don't want to spend the bucks just blue goo it as best as can be. It will help.
New User
Joined: Jun 2006
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maybe someone has some input on my oil leak, I just bought a 94 f-150 4x4 with a 5.0
v-8.I got some good advice on a tranny problem that saved me a bunch of cash and hoping I can get the same on this issue, I seem to have oil leaking arround my starter I
don't believe it can be a rear mail seal just wondering if this particular make or model is
noted for this type of oil leak,any input would help!
v-8.I got some good advice on a tranny problem that saved me a bunch of cash and hoping I can get the same on this issue, I seem to have oil leaking arround my starter I
don't believe it can be a rear mail seal just wondering if this particular make or model is
noted for this type of oil leak,any input would help!
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,420
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From: Langhorne, PA
BillH2...what engine is between the front wheels?
WARNING!!
Many unscrupulous shops will repair your leaks for you, the engine stays clean for about 2000 miles then everything opens up again. Be careful! What you must remember is that many shops will do the gasket repairs because it sounds alot better ( or cheaper) than a minor engine rebuild ( new rings, head etc.) These unscrupulous or maybe ignorant low-lives will take your 500 bucks, and then try and get you for another 1500 bucks later when the leak starts again. ( i know this for a fact..been there done that, )Many times the engine starts leaking out the valve cover, lifter cover and pan, because the rings and cylinder walls are shot and exhaust gases are getting past the combustion chamber and entering the oil crankcase.The gaskets can't take much pressure they aren't designed to.
Any engine work should only be performed after a good tech determines that the combustion chamber pressure is in spec, there is no combustion blow-by in the crankcase, and the engine is showing good vacuum readings, otherwise you'll waste your money.
WARNING!!
Many unscrupulous shops will repair your leaks for you, the engine stays clean for about 2000 miles then everything opens up again. Be careful! What you must remember is that many shops will do the gasket repairs because it sounds alot better ( or cheaper) than a minor engine rebuild ( new rings, head etc.) These unscrupulous or maybe ignorant low-lives will take your 500 bucks, and then try and get you for another 1500 bucks later when the leak starts again. ( i know this for a fact..been there done that, )Many times the engine starts leaking out the valve cover, lifter cover and pan, because the rings and cylinder walls are shot and exhaust gases are getting past the combustion chamber and entering the oil crankcase.The gaskets can't take much pressure they aren't designed to.
Any engine work should only be performed after a good tech determines that the combustion chamber pressure is in spec, there is no combustion blow-by in the crankcase, and the engine is showing good vacuum readings, otherwise you'll waste your money.
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Originally Posted by 924x2150
BillH2...what engine is between the front wheels?
WARNING!!
Many unscrupulous shops will repair your leaks for you, the engine stays clean for about 2000 miles then everything opens up again. Be careful! What you must remember is that many shops will do the gasket repairs because it sounds alot better ( or cheaper) than a minor engine rebuild ( new rings, head etc.) These unscrupulous or maybe ignorant low-lives will take your 500 bucks, and then try and get you for another 1500 bucks later when the leak starts again. ( i know this for a fact..been there done that, )Many times the engine starts leaking out the valve cover, lifter cover and pan, because the rings and cylinder walls are shot and exhaust gases are getting past the combustion chamber and entering the oil crankcase.The gaskets can't take much pressure they aren't designed to.
Any engine work should only be performed after a good tech determines that the combustion chamber pressure is in spec, there is no combustion blow-by in the crankcase, and the engine is showing good vacuum readings, otherwise you'll waste your money.
WARNING!!
Many unscrupulous shops will repair your leaks for you, the engine stays clean for about 2000 miles then everything opens up again. Be careful! What you must remember is that many shops will do the gasket repairs because it sounds alot better ( or cheaper) than a minor engine rebuild ( new rings, head etc.) These unscrupulous or maybe ignorant low-lives will take your 500 bucks, and then try and get you for another 1500 bucks later when the leak starts again. ( i know this for a fact..been there done that, )Many times the engine starts leaking out the valve cover, lifter cover and pan, because the rings and cylinder walls are shot and exhaust gases are getting past the combustion chamber and entering the oil crankcase.The gaskets can't take much pressure they aren't designed to.
Any engine work should only be performed after a good tech determines that the combustion chamber pressure is in spec, there is no combustion blow-by in the crankcase, and the engine is showing good vacuum readings, otherwise you'll waste your money.
Later
Bill
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
I have replaced valve cover gaskets on my 88 f150 a couple of times. There is a bunch of things to remove to get to them. As stated by other posts upper intake has to come off to do the passenger side.Not a real tough job but a little hard on the back from leaning over the engine for a few hours.Upper intake has a allen head style bolt in the middle which can frustrate you if you dont notice it right away.Be careful as not to drop anything in the lower intake during disassembly/assembly. Having a manual wouldnt hurt.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 31,930
Likes: 1,499
From: Ottawa, Ontario
This can be a DIY job. Do yourselves a favor an go to the FORD parts department and order the 1 piece metal core rubber coated valve cover gaskets. These are reusable, will take more torque than the cork gaskets, and generally don't leak. FMS part number M-6584-A50. There is also a 1 piece oil pan gasket, but you'll have to pull the motor to change that. There are 6 bolts holding the upper intake on, plus various hoses and cables... it's not as bad as it looks. The tranny oil pan is dumb simple to remove, but it'll make a hugh mess with 6 liters or so tranny fluid trying to escape from all sides. I put a drain plug in mine years ago.. now fluid changes are simple.
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When I took it in, I asked the tech if he had checked to see if the VC bolts were all tight. He said that he wouldn't do that because of the chance of splitting an oil soaked cork gasket and making the leak worse. When I changed plugs, I found a piece of old valve cover gasket laying on the engine. Like someone had changed gaskets before. Figuring I had nothing to lose, I tightened the valve cover bolts. To my surprise, a number of them took about 3/4 turn then seemed to bottom out. So far, it appears the leak has stopped. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Thanks
Bill
Thanks
Bill
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