First... I am a plumber<grin>. Not a mechanic. I do this for economical reasons and satisfaction.

Second... I tried the FAQ. Twice, so please forgive if I missed an earlier post with my questions.

Trying to get an '82 F250 w/ a 460 on the road again , I purchased it mostly assembled.

I set the distributor , got it started and the RPM was wacky and got a dry sound, guage says no oil press. I go to pull the distributor to re prime the pump and attatch a cordless drill foir a quick test and I cannot get that bad boy out for anything.

I do not want to do what I see people do all day when they call me to their homes, try and try and overlook something stupid that someone w/ experience could have explained in seconds, and end up breaking something bad.

I am high on mech inclination, and have a few ideas I want to try tomorrow, including rocking the crank a bit back and forth, but can anyone offer anything good in the way of " You might also check/do/try...."

Thanks in advance, ... I'd love to keep this motor rather than throw a 351 in it. But I am close.

 

From the bottom; oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, camshaft/distributor drive gear and distributor housing in the engine block. Couple of options, pull the pan and oil pump from the bottom and see whats up. Grab the distributor housing and yank that sob out like an impacted molar. Or beat on it, knowing you will need to replace the distributor when it finally comes out. There may be some interference between the oil pump drive and the distributor shaft or the oil pump drive is jammed. Either way the distributor must come out and you need to find the cause of no oil pressure. I'd come at this from the bottom, pump, pickup could be broken, leaking or clogged with silicone. The pump shaft could be jammed between the dist and the pump. Good luck andlet us know how this turns out.

 

Yup! That's what it is going to be, so I suppose that if I am to do it, may as well go big. I am just going to pull the intake and heads, then elevate the motor and pull the pan and drive out the remnants of the distributor. <grin> yes, I yanked on the thing and tried many angles, and much to it's credit, I actually pulled the top off the dist. shaft. So, whatever it is, it means it.

Oh well, was having what I percieved as a horrible vac leak anyway. And the stupid pan drips a wee small bit, so it'll all get taken care of at once.

Thanks HUGE for your reply, and I am sure to be around here for ages, maybe I can return the favor in the future.

 

If you can twist the dist. in the block, then yeah you might have to pull the pan. If you can't twist the dist. use channel locks to grab the dist. just above the block and rotate it. Once it moves it should come out. If it already rotates in the block then either a couple of big screw drivers to pry it up or even a couple of crowbars. Pry on both sides at the same time. If that doesn't work pull the pan.

 

Yeah the housing will turn, but the shaft would not. Unless the cam was turning it that is. I originally thought that perhaps the gears were gummed together, but after all the stress I put it thru today, I kind of doubt it. Would be great, but I am not holding my breath

 

RockAuto.com carries new oil pumps (about $28 by Sealed Power) and remanufactured distributors (about $53 by Cardone). Ford used cast iron gears on many of their distributors so hopefully that softer gear failed before the camshaft was damaged.

 

I had this problem with mine. I ended up getting a pry bar after that bad-boy and finally got it pryed out. What I found was the distributor gear had burs on it. This distributor was in the truck when I bought it 10 years ago so what it was like when installed I have no idea. I have changed out the distributor since and have found no problems. SO JUST PRY IT OUT.