Where to put Pyro sensor?
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Where to put Pyro sensor?
I finally broke down and had the stock downpipe replced with a nice 3" one that I must say really makes that turbo noticable! It's already spooling up before I hit 10 mph! Prior to the downpipe, I wouldn't ever hear the turbo until I got it to 70 mph with the pedal to the metal. Anyway, the new downpipe has a fitting on it for a Pyro sensor, but the mechanic advised that I have my manifold drilled and tapped instead. I heeded his advice and paid the extra 20 bucks. My question is: Was he correct? Should the sensor be pre turbo and so close to the exhaust ports? Wouldn't the sensor just be buried in flame most of the time? I can see the difference between pre and post turbo installs, but I figured it should be up closer to the turbo, not on the manifold.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 144
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From: LaFargeville, New York
Yup, drill the manifold. I tried using the welded in spot on the downpipe to try it out and it didn't even register. I thought the gauge was defective, then thought I would put it where I wanted to in the first place and bingo!!! Works like a charm!!! Don't waste your time, install it in the manifold.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Mount Juliet, TN
Very interesting. I was researching a Pyro and turbo boost gauges today and I called ISSPro for some information as it is a little confusing for someone new (like me) to this.
He stated that the difference versus pre vs post was mainly where the warning levels fell on the Pyro gauge. Pre had a higher rating before the warning/danger zones than the Post did, as the post was expected to be hotter.
Basically that if you set it up as post than the average temp was really around 200 degrees lower. The benefit to going post is that if the thermocoupler probe broke, no big deal (not that they have had any break), but if it broke pre-turbo, your going to do all kinds of damage.
So, now that I have regurgitated all that 1 ISSpro tech told me, whats the real scoop?
Is there a better gauge at better cost than ISSPro? Banks didn't show any analog gauges on their site, and since my PSD is a 5 speed manual, the digital Xmonitor wasn't as appealing.
He stated that the difference versus pre vs post was mainly where the warning levels fell on the Pyro gauge. Pre had a higher rating before the warning/danger zones than the Post did, as the post was expected to be hotter.
Basically that if you set it up as post than the average temp was really around 200 degrees lower. The benefit to going post is that if the thermocoupler probe broke, no big deal (not that they have had any break), but if it broke pre-turbo, your going to do all kinds of damage.
So, now that I have regurgitated all that 1 ISSpro tech told me, whats the real scoop?
Is there a better gauge at better cost than ISSPro? Banks didn't show any analog gauges on their site, and since my PSD is a 5 speed manual, the digital Xmonitor wasn't as appealing.
Last edited by andywe; Jun 13, 2006 at 03:07 AM. Reason: Im tired and my spelling was horrible.
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,302
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From: Southwest Georgia
Pre Turbo is the recommended install for accurate readings. The danger of high EGT is that it will melt the pistons (aluminum = approx 1400 deg.) if too high and sustained. Pre turbo gives you a true reading on the EGT as it exits the head (leaving the piston). For the post turbo install the key word is "AROUND" 200 deg. difference. Meaning just that "AROUND". The temp is going to very with different turbos, air temp, speed, etc. Either one will work and is safe, especially if you never let the EGT get close to the red line. I have never heard of a pyro probe breaking off, unless someone was messing with it.
ISSPRO makes gauges for heavey equipment, trucks, etc. Autometer also makes pyro's as do several other companies. Check with our sponsors, they carry several different brands and can help you out.
ISSPRO makes gauges for heavey equipment, trucks, etc. Autometer also makes pyro's as do several other companies. Check with our sponsors, they carry several different brands and can help you out.
Last edited by plowhand; Jun 13, 2006 at 09:38 AM.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: South Texas Coast
The reason the difference in the gauges is where the warning falls is because post turbo measurements always run cooler than pre turbo. The harder the engine is working the higher the egt and the bigger the discrepency between pre and post.
Each engine/turbo combination will be different but I have seen reports of discrepencies up to 400 degrees. The saftey point for pre turbo is 1200 degrees (you can exceed this for short term but dont allow it to stay there). Most folks will tell you that 900 degrees post turbo is safe but if your truck has a 400 degree spread you are over the safe limit.
Excessive EGT does nasty things like destroy turbos and burn holes in pistons.
The question is do you want to KNOW what the EGT is or do you want to guess at it.
Pre Turbo placement is the only safe way to go, if you value your truck. BTW I have never herd of a probe breaking off.
Each engine/turbo combination will be different but I have seen reports of discrepencies up to 400 degrees. The saftey point for pre turbo is 1200 degrees (you can exceed this for short term but dont allow it to stay there). Most folks will tell you that 900 degrees post turbo is safe but if your truck has a 400 degree spread you are over the safe limit.
Excessive EGT does nasty things like destroy turbos and burn holes in pistons.
The question is do you want to KNOW what the EGT is or do you want to guess at it.
Pre Turbo placement is the only safe way to go, if you value your truck. BTW I have never herd of a probe breaking off.
Last edited by Phydeaux88; Jun 13, 2006 at 10:17 AM.
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if you want some more info on thermocouples you can check out omega.com I get some type "k"s that i use in a cooling process at the plant that are pipe threaded and i use some that have a "one shot" compression fitting, plus they have a good tutorial on selecting thermocouplings and thermowells. i have not used any on my powerstroke yet but i will.
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My 2 cents......$20 more to put it in the manifold????.....did he remove the manifold before drilling??...if not you get metal filings, pre-turbo.....VERY bad.
Most people chose to put it post-turbo because it is such a PIA to remove manifold (or expensive if you have it done).
However if you chose to put it pre-turbo (definatly the better place) make SURE that the manifold is removed before drilling it. May cost a little more now, but WILL save you thousands later.
Good luck.
Most people chose to put it post-turbo because it is such a PIA to remove manifold (or expensive if you have it done).
However if you chose to put it pre-turbo (definatly the better place) make SURE that the manifold is removed before drilling it. May cost a little more now, but WILL save you thousands later.
Good luck.
Posting Guru
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From: South Texas Coast
Originally Posted by dedhed
My 2 cents......$20 more to put it in the manifold????.....did he remove the manifold before drilling??...if not you get metal filings, pre-turbo.....VERY bad.
Most people chose to put it post-turbo because it is such a PIA to remove manifold (or expensive if you have it done).
However if you chose to put it pre-turbo (definatly the better place) make SURE that the manifold is removed before drilling it. May cost a little more now, but WILL save you thousands later.
Good luck.
Most people chose to put it post-turbo because it is such a PIA to remove manifold (or expensive if you have it done).
However if you chose to put it pre-turbo (definatly the better place) make SURE that the manifold is removed before drilling it. May cost a little more now, but WILL save you thousands later.
Good luck.
Hundreds maybe thousands done like this and I have not heard of any problems
Last edited by Phydeaux88; Jun 14, 2006 at 09:53 AM.
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Common sense approach!
That makes the most sense, I've never heard that one yet. But it guarantees no shavings will go into turbo. Jcab
Originally Posted by Phydeaux88
All you have to do is let the truck idle while drilling. The filings blow past the turbo while it's not moving and cause no problems.
Hundreds maybe thousands done like this and I have not heard of any problems
Hundreds maybe thousands done like this and I have not heard of any problems
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Originally Posted by dedhed
My 2 cents......$20 more to put it in the manifold????.....did he remove the manifold before drilling??...if not you get metal filings, pre-turbo.....VERY bad.
Most people chose to put it post-turbo because it is such a PIA to remove manifold (or expensive if you have it done).
However if you chose to put it pre-turbo (definatly the better place) make SURE that the manifold is removed before drilling it. May cost a little more now, but WILL save you thousands later.
Good luck.
Most people chose to put it post-turbo because it is such a PIA to remove manifold (or expensive if you have it done).
However if you chose to put it pre-turbo (definatly the better place) make SURE that the manifold is removed before drilling it. May cost a little more now, but WILL save you thousands later.
Good luck.
BTW, does anybody know what these sensors are made of? I would think they would have to be ceramic to withstand the heat, but I don't know. If ever one did break though, I can see where it could cause some serious issues with the turbo provided it could make it all the way uphill to the turbo. I wonder if the exhaust pressure would be enough to blow a heavy chunk of metal or ceramic up the exhaust pipe to the turbo. I would think it would just lay in the bottom of the manifold or pipe.
Last edited by BigRed350; Jun 16, 2006 at 05:35 PM.
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