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so i noticed my coffee can is rusted out. if i remember correctly, i think it is the carbon cansiter. it has two vacuum lines running into it. either way, it is rusted and leaking. do i need to get a new one or is there another option like running one vacuum line straight into the other. thanks for all the help.
chris
As I drink my coffee, I think you title of this post said it all. Have you checked for new replacement part cost? Can you spring for the cost? I know from riding motorcycles that the cans can get filled with gas from a over heated motor with a full tank stuck in traffic and the motors will not run untill you get the extra gas out of the cans. Leaking and rusted? Hummm? Leaking gas? You smoke? I know someone will write back and say that you don't need any of the smog stuff. The motors don't need smog stuff, we do. If you don't think smog is a problem because you have never seen it because you have never been off the land claim, take a trip to LosAngles, Ca. Get there from the north going down the Grape Vine, the main hwy. It's a scarry site driving down into/thru that dark smog from a mountian pass that helps hold the smog inplace. Be careful playing with gas fumes and sparks and leaking coffee cans.
go to left column, find national parts depot, go to the web site, find pdf catalog and download, you will find which have plastic or steel "coffee cans".
The can you are referring to is on the fender apron on the passengers side is a vacuum (for lack of a better word) reservoir. It looks like a large fruit juice can, with two vac lines going in to it. IN FACT- you can use a metal FRUIT JUICE CAN, just find one at the market that is steel and looks the same(there are a few) I did and it works fine. Solder two brass tubes (from hobby shop) into the end of the can, after extracting the juice from the two holes you make that the tubes will go in, to match the vac line connection. Total cost --$1.19 for the juice. The gas vapor canister is on the passengers side under the battery and it is plastic. That applies to a 1990.
I've made several of these over the years for various vehicles. Just got a can of whatever was the right size, liquid [no chunks], and tasty. Poke your holes and drain the contents, rinse, repeat. I never soldered the hose connections; just used a plastic vacuum hose splicer fitting cut in half and secured into the can with JB weld or weatherstripping adhesive.
i am sorry i did not specify completely. it is leaking some vacuum pressure. if i spray a bit of starting fluid around the rusted hole, the rpm of the engine changes ever so slightly. i think i may give the homemade can a try. it is just an empty can, correct?
also, i will leave this system in tact and if i need to, i will buy one. does this, though, involve the smog stuff or is it just a vacuum res.? temporrarily, my egr is disabled. quicklook says it is an egr vacuum res. do these two work together? thanks for clearing this stuff up for me.
chris
it is fuel injected...so i assume it is pulled into the intake manifold after the throttle body?
chris
Yep... all your vacuum for spark advance, break boost, whatever is drawn from after the carb or throttle body. On carbed engines it's drawn off just below the carb, for EFI's usually in the large box of the intake plenum. Just follow your vacuum lines.
If the hole in your vacuum can is small you could just patch it up with some epoxy [JB Weld or such] instead of making a new one. The can is there to act as a buffer between the manifold vacuum and whatever switch/ valve it's controlling. It keeps the vacuum signal the EGR valve [or whatever] sees more constant so it's doesn't cycle on/off too quickly which can cause performance issues [surging, rough idle].
I got one out of a junk yard. The vacuum lines plug into some sort of check valve that is fitted into the can. After all that a friend told me that I could have bought one for $16. Oh well.... I'll be getting the new one after this one starts leaking. By the way the $ figure is unconfirmed but vacuum leaks sure make 'em run rough.