It seems I have to replace the lifters on my 86-87 302 Ford engine. I know I need to soak them overnight. But then what? Some people I talk to say to compress them a few times while they're submerged in the oil and others say just soaking them overnight is enough. After installation some folks say feel for resistance against the pushrod as I tighten the rocker down, others say torque the rockers down and the hydraulics will do the rest. What is the torque supposed to be on the rockers? Still others say to compress the lifter with a special bleed down tool and check the gap between the rocker and the valve tip. Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of filling the lifters with oil before dropping them in? What is the gap supposed to be between the valve tip and the rocker? I've never done anything this complex with an engine but I'm very confident I can do it. I'm just not sure what the proper way to do it is. Anybody that knows what they're doing and lives close to Rockford, Illinois want to come help a fellow Ford nut out? I'm starting to dream about lifter noise. I think I'm going crazy.

 

Having just gone though this with my SBC I can probably offer a few tips. I found that tightening the rocker until you "feel resistance" and then going 1/4 additional turn did not work for me. The problem is that "feel resistance" can be very subjective. What was happening to me is that the lifter plunger was depressing even though I felt no resistance. What you want to do is take out all the slack in the pushrod WITHOUT depressing the lifter plunger and then tighten it 1/4 turn. At least that's what I did. I haven't restarted the engine yet so time will tell. I read all kinds of information about adjusting valves before I did it and saw anything from 1/4 to 3/4 turns being used. I went with 1/4 because I felt I could always tighten them down more later if need be but I definitely wanted to be sure I didn't screw anything up. You need to get the engine at TDC and you can adjust half of them and then turn the engine 360 degrees to get the rest. Only adjust the ones that are on the heel of the cam (lifter at it lowest position in the block). I also read where soaking does little as far as lubricating the lifter. Put them in a small container and submerge them with oil and pump them up with a pushrod. Be sure to use plenty of assembly lube on the bottoms of the lifters where they contact the cam.

Vern

 

If you intend to change lifters without changing your camshaft, don't worry about pre-lube. The old cam and new lifters will probably eat each other in a few thousand miles. Check Northern Auto Parts online. They have a bunch of cam/lifter kits. Call them for instructions on pre-lubing.

 

Sad but probably true. This would be great time to replace the cam and lifters as a set. And, since you have it down a new timing chain and gear set too.

Vern

 

SevenL4, The engine was rebuilt with new cam and lifters several years ago. It was never installed into anything and the lifters bled out. Now they make noise. I would assume that because I'm not replacing the lifters due to wear, the cam wouldn't need replacing. But I had already planned on checking the wear when I got into it. Thanks for the sarcasm... er advise. John

 

You shouldn't need to replace the lifters if they just leaked down. If you only have a couple hours on the engine, just keep track of which lifter goes on which valve, and soak them in light oil or even ATF, and exercise the plungers. If adjusted per GNW's method, shouldn't be any problems. (Although I would adjust each cylinder's lifters at TDC for that cylinder)

Unless the cam is a "hot" (high-lift, long duration aftermarket) cam, I wouldn't expect an old cam to tear up a new lifter provided the cam is showing a good wear pattern on the lobes.

 

How long has the engine run? If you are just talking about start-up clatter on a new engine, it's not uncommon. I use a pre-oiler to get pressure and complete circulation before starting a new engine. Even though I'm careful to pre-set the clearance, I still find myself readjusting the rocker arm clearance while the engine is running. Try a pre-oiler and proper cam break-in procedures. Follow that by adjusting while the engine is at operating temperature and running. My procedure with SBCs and SBFs is to back off the adjustment until the rocker arm starts to clatter, tighten slowly until the clatter stops, tighten 1/2 turn. ALBUQ is right about keeping track of which lifter goes on which lobe. Experience of many others, not just me, dictates that cam and lifters must break in together. Old/new is a recipe for short life.

 

I used a pre oiler before I started it. I guess I've let it run about an hour total now. To tell the truth I'm beginning to get sick of messing with it. I may leave it sit for a week or two and work on the brakes or the interior. Maybe I'll check the resistance on the pushrods without making the adjustments. Thanks for the help, John

 

One more stupid question. Would a stock ford 302 truck cam and lifter set for the same year work in a 302 out of a Mercury Marquis? I don't know these things. John

 

Black58, shouldn't be a problem...but there is in later models compared to earleir ones, the firing order changed..(same as 351) but if they are from the same time period you should be good

 

Same comment as before applies -- whoever took the cam/lifters out of the truck needs to have numbered them or otherwise kept them in their correct position so you know which lifter goes with which cam lobe. I always get a kick out of guys selling used cams/lifters at swap meets, who just put the lifters in a box. Might as well throw them away!

 

I would be buying a new cam and lifter kit if needed. Thanks though. Yeah I noticed a few guys on ebay selling the same type of stuff. Garbage. John