Intake Question?
Will I have any problem using this on my '57 Mercury 312 which is going in my '56 F-350 wrecker and, if so, what carburetor do y'all recommed? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the info. The 312 I have was in a B-600 bus and presently has a two-barrell intake. So, it's good to know that the four-barrell one I obtained is correct for the engine.
Depending on your preferences and/or your tuning ability
, & the RPM range you want, here's what I'd look at (in no particular order).1) An Edelbrock 500 or 600 Performer w/electric choke. Basically an updated Carter AFB. Easy to tune & tend to stay set. Not too hard to find used, if that's what the budget wants. Edelbrock makes an optional metering rod/tuning kit which is a good idea; generally has to be ordered from a speed shop.
2) A Holley 390, 450, or 600 with electric choke & vacuum secondaries. Pretty easy to tune, with parts available most everywhere. A little messier though, because you have to remove the float bowls. Very easy to find 600s used, a little more difficult for 390s, very difficult to find 450s (in a vac. sec. version, that is.)
3) An Autolite 4100. Easy to find used dirt cheap (if the salvage yards locally have older stuff) & easy to rebuild. Should be like $20, hopefully much less. Unfortunately, there are almost no "tuning" parts available (I believe Pony Carburetion has some). That means that it's better to find one off a 289, 312, or 332 FE if you can, so it will be closer in jetting. The 4100 usually has a hot air choke which should be OK with that manifold. Be aware that 4100 parts generally are not stocked at local stores, but NAPA can get them, among others. Count on needing a secondary diaphagm, which does NOT come with most rebuild kits; neither does the top gasket.

Hopefully someone else will toss in their $.02.
Much thanks for the valuable info. By the way, I see on eBay that there are several Y-block intakes on there, but all have the last letter "A", plus the bolt pattern does not appear to be square. I'm assuming these are for the older 'teapot' four-barrells, correct?
Actually, the bolt pattern's not quite square on the late manifolds, either. They became known as "squarebore" after the introduction of the Rochester Q-Jet in '65, with its enlarged secondaries & smaller primaries & complex primary boosters. Those were called "spreadbores", & so std. Holleys, etc. got the "squarebore" name as a result. Prolly some magazine writers/"experts" who coined that one.
Profoundly exciting, huh?? I've got all sorts of crap like that stashed in my head. That's why I can't remember my name or where I live, most of the time.

BTW, Tim, (wildbunch) on this board has a great web site which covers Y block manifolds, with pics, along with other things. I think it covers just about all of the OE & aftermarket manifolds; I've not found one yet that wasn't listed there. http://m571.com/yblock/ Good stuff!
By the way, I see on eBay that there are several Y-block intakes on there, but all have the last letter "A", plus the bolt pattern does not appear to be square. I'm assuming these are for the older 'teapot' four-barrells, correct?
Dittos on the 4100 carburetor as it is easy to service and not as trouble prone as the HOLLEY/CARTER. Another consideration is the forgotten HOLLEY 4010 Series which is similiar in appearance and function to the AUTOLITE 4100.
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I really do appreciate all the valuable information. Please let me know if there's anything I can do for y'all, as far as cooling system stuff goes...
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Timmy's page says it works better on the older engines (which I have-56 272), but you can get an adapter to more modern carb. Are they expensive and not effective or something?
Ford ECZ 9425A
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This manifold is used on 55 and 56 Fords and Mercurys and uses the Holley “Teapot” Model 4000 carburetor. It can be recognized by the small 4v mounting flange. This manifold is best suited to the smaller ported 55 and 56 heads. An adapter must be used to mount a modern Holley or AFB 4v carburetor.
Just asking, since I don't have a clue.
The teapot has a, shall we say, evil reputation for bursting into flames at inconvenient moments. They can be made to work, & the reputation is somewhat exaggerated...but most people don't really trust them. Parts are a little difficult to get, but still available. Last I looked, NAPA listed some things (a year ago, maybe.) The T-Bird parts vendors carry kits. The WCFB (mostly GM & Mopar so far as I know)is a predecessor of the AFB, and later the E-brock. IIRC not everything interchanges, but I haven't messed with them since the early '80s.
As far as older engines, I believe he was referring to the smaller head ports of the '56-back engines matching to the older intake castings. After all these years, original may not be original anymore, so casting #s are your friend.

There are(or were) adapters to go from teapot to std. Hollley; depending on what you have & are trying to do, you may get some odd mixture distribution, or hesitation which will require a larger accelerator pump shot, or longer pump duration, or both.
My $.02, your mileage may vary.
Currently I have a holly 2100 on it. I just walked into the O'reilly store and picked up a kit for it. They had it on the shelf. Its reliable, but tiny.
Mine might be a 272 according to the VIN. The casting numbers on the block are basically worn off. I can't make them out to be much of anything.
Would the current 2 barrel intake casting numbers help me identify the engine in any way? If indeed I have the correct engine (56) would the later 57 intake fit (assuming I can ever find one)?
This is the engine (carb was rebuilt since then and new filter of course):
Check www.ford-y-block.com to aid in ID of motor and heads. The casting ID has to be there on your motor unless someone ground it off, which would be very strange.
If you do go with a model B manifold, I think the Holley 390 cfm 4V carb would be the most gas friendly. Next in line in my mind is an Autolite 4100 4V with 1.08 venturis, but they are becoming harder to find and more expensive.
I know I won't be able to get a "blue thunder" ($400!!!!)
As far as the block numbers....I cleaned the numbers off with a wire brush (upside down by generator). I sprayed them with white paint because I can't read them. They are rusted/worn away really badly (real bad!!).
The first letter was round at one point (I think---???) The second looks like it used to be an "E" or "C". The third is probably a "G". Thats not on the list as real numbers.....
I never looked at for the head casting numbers. The earlier ones are near the exhaust posts, but where is the second picture showing (that Y-block site).
Thank you for your help.
Teapot is the slang term for the older 4 bbl., the Holley 4000. It's called that because it sits very tall, relative to its base size, due to its design. If I can scrounge a picture, I'll post it. (So you'll know what to avoid.
)The block casting #s are usually back by the dizzy. I'm assuming that's what you meant, but ya know what happens when you assume. Possibly/probably an ECG. The head numbers are usually on the BOTTOM side of the intake ports (or close by, that is) on later heads. Certain 351C & 460 heads have the #s there as well and it's a big, fat pain in the backside.
I think I hijacked the thread though. Hopefully its all good information for everyone.
I will keep my eyes open for the "B" intake. I would assume a more modern carb would not be too hard to find once I get one. My dad can rebuild whatever carb I find.






