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ok, i have been contemplating this one for awhile since it is expensive. can anyone tell me if it will tear the truck apart if i install 4.30 gears in the rear end of my truck, and wait a few weeks before i do the front to that ratio AS LONG AS I DONT ENGAGE 4WD? or do i have to pull the front driveshaft? i have the manual hubs on my 2000. anyone know the best place to buy some 4.30 gears for front and rear? thanks in advance guys. matt
I had to swap in a 3.73 3rd member into my FJ40 when I grenaded the 4.10 set.
I drove 500 miles home and didn't fix it until the winter. But I took the front drive shaft off to make absolutely sure that my wife never ran it in 4wd.
It won't hurt anything as long as 4wd isn't engaged.
But you will bust up your t-case if someone is able to engage 4wd on a high traction surface.
ok, i have been contemplating this one for awhile since it is expensive. can anyone tell me if it will tear the truck apart if i install 4.30 gears in the rear end of my truck, and wait a few weeks before i do the front to that ratio AS LONG AS I DONT ENGAGE 4WD? or do i have to pull the front driveshaft? i have the manual hubs on my 2000. anyone know the best place to buy some 4.30 gears for front and rear? thanks in advance guys. matt
Should have NO problems. Just do not engage 4x4 or lock your manual hubs.
I like Yukon brand...and think Randy's Ring and Pinion are a great place to purchase from...when it comes to axles, gears, lockers, etc. Very nice and friendly, plus knowledgeable.
I purchased a complete third member for my '76 F150 4x4 FORD 9 inch with a Detroit Truetrac installed. Great price...and solid build.
ok, i have been contemplating this one for awhile since it is expensive. can anyone tell me if it will tear the truck apart if i install 4.30 gears in the rear end of my truck, and wait a few weeks before i do the front to that ratio AS LONG AS I DONT ENGAGE 4WD? or do i have to pull the front driveshaft? i have the manual hubs on my 2000. anyone know the best place to buy some 4.30 gears for front and rear? thanks in advance guys. matt
this something i have done many a time. just don't engage the front till you do that end. and the 4:30's will for sure will tell how much of a beast you have under that bonnet.
randy's ring and pinion the only place for great prices
You got it right...in fact if you can assure that the front locking HUBs do not get engaged even if you put the transfer case in 4 HI there will be no problems
But if you have ESOF I would search for and remove the fuse for that little bit of convenience
The Electronic Shift ON the Fly (ESOF) system uses and electric motor to shift the transfer case from 2 HI to 4 HI and 4 LO and when it does that a vacuum signal goes to the front automatic hubs to actuate them to the locked position and of course when you set it all back to 2 HI then the front hubs are told to unlock
excellent, thanks charlie, fred, everyone for your answers. i have been listening to everyone on here praise the 4.30 gears so i gotta get em. funny thing is i have towed up to 7500-8000 lbs now many times and the 3.73 posi that i have does just fine. but if i am gonna gain some useable power with no sacrifice in mileage, i'm all for it. thanks again guys, matt
good luck matt. backs are the easy end , the front a royal pia to do. just make sure there is new seals installed when it's done as the axle seals are inside the front case by the carrier bearings .
When I do mine, I'll seriously be considering getting a junkyard housing, do it "on the bench" and then install the entire unit.
I've done the Dana 60 in the rear of my highboy three times on the ground. The front I rebuilt on the bench because I was switching to open-knuckle w/disc brakes anyway.
And no, no problems with running different gear ratios as long as you don't engage 4x4. Better late than never