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The power wire is bolted to the positive side of the solenoid where the battery connects. The clicking noise occurs when the key is in the "on" position, but the motor is not running. When I turn the key off and remove it, there is no noise.
Undo the power wire from the solenoid and attach it directly to the battery. You say the noise is only there with the ignition on; then look at sources where ignition comes into play. Possible bad solenoid or a loose connection even. Another thing when you removed the stereo, is it possible you might have pulled on a wire a little too hard and damaged one of them or nicked one of the wires causing a short?
A capacitor doesn't really do anything but act as another battery pretty much. It holds power inside the cap so your amp is getting more constant power. All it will do is make your subs hit harder. You probably just don't have good enough power and ground cable. A capacitor is just a waste of money. But if you get one, make sure you follow the exact directions. Because if you don't charge it right before hooking your amp to it, your cap won't work and then you would have to get a new one.
A capacitor doesn't really do anything but act as another battery pretty much. It holds power inside the cap so your amp is getting more constant power. All it will do is make your subs hit harder. You probably just don't have good enough power and ground cable. A capacitor is just a waste of money. But if you get one, make sure you follow the exact directions. Because if you don't charge it right before hooking your amp to it, your cap won't work and then you would have to get a new one.
A capacitor at the AMP's power terminals, or as close as possible WILL filter a lot of clicking noise that is generated by other power drains. The high-frequency noise from the alternator, it might not do much for, you need an inductor/capacitor bridge to reduce that (noise filter).
I've never heard of pre-charging a capacitor before. DIScharging it so as not to create a fire hazard, OK, but pre-charging it? If you hook it up backwards, you'll have problems, but I've never heard of pre-charging a cap. And if you do hook it up wrong, watch out for the explosion/venting.
How are you switching the amp? What kind of head unit is the amp hooked to? It's possible that you've hooked the amp's remote wire to the wrong wire on the head unit. Also make sure that you have GOOD battery voltage and ground at the head unit.
I will try putting the power wire on the battery terminal. The head unit is a cheap Panasonic deal. It has an amp power wire, and the preouts for it. I didn't even have to remove the stereo to hook up the amp, it is placed low enough in the dash that I could reach the back of it by laying on the floor. I am not as worried about the clicking as my wife isn't the kind of person who listens to the radio with the car off. It's the whining that bothers me the most. I have some new 18 guage speaker wire to replace the regular wire thats on there, and I will get some better RCA cables today.
I'm starting to wonder if you have a bad diode or two in your alternator
That would explain excessive whine.
That clicking... the amp does or does not have a +12V full-time (to battery), and then a line from the radio to the amp that tells it to power up?
Maybe it's one of those that powers on only when it see something on the inputs? And background noise (head unit has volume down, power on or even off) is causing it to power up repeatedly over and over?
After re-reading your first, I just realized that you may have the amp input gain set wrong. What may be happening at low volume is you don't have enough input power on the RCA cables to make the amp work correctly. Try this. Turn the volume on the radio up until the speakers in the car start to distort, then turn it back down until they stop distorting. Then turn the gain up on the amp until the subs distort, then turn it down until they stop. If that doesn't correct it you may need to put an inline filter on the positive side. A 20 amp filter is more than enough. That amp shouldn't draw more than about 15 when at normal listening levels.
That clicking... the amp does or does not have a +12V full-time (to battery), and then a line from the radio to the amp that tells it to power up?
The amp does have both of those wires connected to it.
Maybe it's one of those that powers on only when it see something on the inputs? And background noise (head unit has volume down, power on or even off) is causing it to power up repeatedly over and over?
I don't know, the power LED on the amp stays continuously lit.
I have tried adjusting the gain as well. I am begining to think I am just one unlucky S.O.B. when it comes to electronics.
I don't know, the power LED on the amp stays continuously lit.
You mean even with the radio off? Does it go off when you turn off the key?
If so, it sounds like you picked up the wrong output from the radio. Matter of fact, you may have picked up the key-on input to the radio.
If you have a power antenna, you can always tap into that.
If you are absolutely sure you have the right output from the radio to turn on the amp, check it with a test-light and make sure it acts like you think it does.
A little update, I replaced the cheezy speaker wire I was using with some better 18 guage speaker wire, and now the whine is barely audible. I really have to concentrate to hear it. I had some better RCA cables, but I accidentally cut them so I will have to get some more.