What did I do wrong? (AMP install)
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,377
Likes: 2
From: Elkhart IN
where do you have the amp at? you were talking about grounding at the dash and tranny tunnel, you want the ground as close as possible to the amp. what kinda of rca cables are you using? you might try a different set, with better sheilding. make sure all your connections are tight.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 16
From: Kuna ID
When I got this amp, I had it professionally installed and I am still using the components they put in. I have it mounted under the passenger seat, I ran the ground cable to one of the seat mounting bolts. I just ran a second 10 guage ground wire from the body of the amp to another seat mounting bolt, and cut the whining in half. Now I can only hear the whining with the volume real low. I may have switched RCA cables, the ones I am using may have been meant for a home audio system, I could try to find some better quality car audio cables.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 16
From: Kuna ID
Couldn't I just use better cable? The only other place I can mount the amp is in the back where everyone can see it through the huge rear window. I drove the car to work last night, and noticed the whining is louder when the amp is cold, after the car got warm inside, the whining got quieter. 
Freshman User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Bayville NJ
Besure the ground cable from the eng to battery is good and then make sure you have a ground strap going from the eng to the body. usally at the back of the eng going to the firewall you will find that does make a differce. by the way I never intalled a radio or amp in anything newer then a 1989
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Where did you get the +12V for the amp? It should be run straight to the battery, if it's not, you can get alternator noise. The other choice is to put a big electrolytic capacitor across the +12V at the amp and ground.
Is it still clicking with the key off? If so, there's something VERY wrong with your setup.
The whining noise got quiter because the alternator wasn't charging as much after a while.
Is it still clicking with the key off? If so, there's something VERY wrong with your setup.
The whining noise got quiter because the alternator wasn't charging as much after a while.
Last edited by krewat; May 30, 2006 at 09:10 AM. Reason: spelling
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Posting Guru
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Have you checked to where your RCA cable is routed to your amp? I remember in my old truck I had a simular problem to what you have and I found out my RCA was running close to my heater fan wire (it was also a cheap set), all I did was raplace the RCA with a good quality one and made sure that it did not go anywhere near a wire that had power to it, never had a problem since.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 16
From: Kuna ID
Originally Posted by krewat
Where did you get the +12V for the amp? It should be run straight to the battery, if it's not, you can get alternator noise. The other choice is to put a big electrolytic capacitor across the +12V at the amp and ground.
Is it still clicking with the key off? If so, there's something VERY wrong with your setup.
The whining noise got quiter because the alternator wasn't charging as much after a while.
Is it still clicking with the key off? If so, there's something VERY wrong with your setup.
The whining noise got quiter because the alternator wasn't charging as much after a while.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 5,491
Likes: 16
From: Kuna ID
Originally Posted by xtrford
Have you checked to where your RCA cable is routed to your amp? I remember in my old truck I had a simular problem to what you have and I found out my RCA was running close to my heater fan wire (it was also a cheap set), all I did was raplace the RCA with a good quality one and made sure that it did not go anywhere near a wire that had power to it, never had a problem since.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
Originally Posted by Sycostang67
The power wire is bolted to the positive side of the solenoid where the battery connects. The clicking noise occurs when the key is in the "on" position, but the motor is not running. When I turn the key off and remove it, there is no noise.
As to the alternator noise, make sure the battery connections are PERFECT. You might have some resistance at the battery terminals.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
That clicking may be something in the car drawing power.
I think you're only choice at this point would be a capacitor at the power inputs to the amp. A 1000uF 24volt cap would work wonders, your local audio place probably would have one.
I think you're only choice at this point would be a capacitor at the power inputs to the amp. A 1000uF 24volt cap would work wonders, your local audio place probably would have one.