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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old May 29, 2006 | 09:54 PM
  #31  
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Piffery1
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1. I think the Ohmmeter battery is weak, it should get much closer to zero than that. With a Zero adjustment control and test leads shorted (connected together) on this type meter it ought to go to zero on the lowest Ohms range if the battery is good (assuming the test leads are in good condition). If the battery is weak the readings are not accurate. Also, you need to subtract the value the meter reads with the test leads shorted (ideally 0) from the value read from the circuit being tested.
2. I can't read the numbers on the Ohms scale very well, but it looks like the numbers are (from right to left) 0, 50, 100, 200, 300, etc.( I can't tell if there are any decimal points). If that's the case and the meter range select **** is on the R X 1 scale then the value is 175 - 25 =150 Ohms which is way, way off what it should be and probably a resistance that would be so high the coil wouldn't produce a spark. Could the range select **** be set to R X .01? If so, the reading would be 1.75 - 0.25 = 1.5 which would be reasonable and not too far out of tolerance. Or, is the scale actually numbered 0, .50, 1.00, 2.00, 3.00 etc.(which, by the way, is how most analog type Ohmmeters are numbered)? My suggestions are: A. New battery(s) in Ohmmeter. B. Check Ohmmeter test leads for loose or corroded connections, broken wires, etc. i.e., anything that could cause high resistance in meter test lead circuit itself. C. Then, retest vehicle circuit using lowest range scale on meter and post results.
 
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Old May 29, 2006 | 10:20 PM
  #32  
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I replaced 1 battery in it. The other is a paper wrapped 15v, that I have never even seen one before. Leads and all are good.

(from right to left) 0, 50, 100, 200, 300 is correct.

Range select is 1, 10, 100 and 1k there is no .1

The scale is 0, 50, 100, 200, 300, 500, 1k, 5k, 20k I see no decimals anywhere.

I'll try and find another ohm meter tomorrow.

To be continued...........

Thanks for your time.
 
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Old May 29, 2006 | 10:41 PM
  #33  
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Piffery1
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Try to find one with a lower Ohms range scale so you can read in increments of 0.1 Ohms between 0 and 2 Ohms. Most digital Ohmmeters will do this. The 15 Volt battery is the one for low Ohms ranges and it's likely the problem on the meter you have. Plus it would be very difficult to read 1 Ohm on scales like that.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 08:37 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Piffery1
Here's an easy way to check resistance (should be 1.1 +/-0.2 Ohms): 1. Ignition switch "Off". 2. Disconnect White/Light blue wire (unplug Ignition Module Connector). 3. Disconnect Red/Light Green wire (unplug coil connector). 4. Short Ohmmeter test leads and "Zero" Ohmmeter on lowest resistance scale. If your Ohmmeter doesn't have a "Zero Adjustment" (many digital Ohmmeters don't), short the test leads and write down the indicated resistance (usually a value of 0.1 to 0.6 Ohms). 5. Measure resistance between end of White/Light Blue wire and end of Red/Light Green Wire. If your meter wasn't "Zeroed" subtract the reading you got with the test leads shorted. If the resistance reading is ok, then suspect the coil or possibly the radio noise capacitor (at coil terminal). I.e., something is drawing too much current through the resistance wire. Also, check to see if any non-stock wiring has been attached to the ignition circuit.
Hint # 1, just because it is green at both ends, dont always assume its the same wire.

I did what you said, but when its unplugged from the coil, I get absolutely nothing. Its totally open. If I plug the coil in, then I get the 1.5 +/-
When its unplugged, I get 1.5 on the other coil wire. I think its brown.

Now what?
 
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 09:16 PM
  #35  
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Piffery1
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Opus,
Check your email for a message.
 
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