HOT wire
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
Red/Green, is the run wire, although some systems just have this wire as Red only.
You should be able to get a new Coil horseshoe connector with new pigtails in it from some auto parts stores. At least I was able to in 1995 or 1996 thereabouts, but a lot can change in ten years.
It sounds like your resistor wire is going bad, if it's extremely hot. Some heat is normal but not hot enough to cause fires, or burn etc... I would replace the resistor wire with a new one of same quality and resistance. You have to replace it from junction to junction, and it has to be around the same length as the old one. You cannot just splice it in or you will, or could, have the wrong resistance, and start frying coils or ignition components etc...
Hope this helps,
You should be able to get a new Coil horseshoe connector with new pigtails in it from some auto parts stores. At least I was able to in 1995 or 1996 thereabouts, but a lot can change in ten years.
It sounds like your resistor wire is going bad, if it's extremely hot. Some heat is normal but not hot enough to cause fires, or burn etc... I would replace the resistor wire with a new one of same quality and resistance. You have to replace it from junction to junction, and it has to be around the same length as the old one. You cannot just splice it in or you will, or could, have the wrong resistance, and start frying coils or ignition components etc...
Hope this helps,
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Senior User
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
It sounds like your resistor wire is going bad, if it's extremely hot. Some heat is normal but not hot enough to cause fires, or burn etc... I would replace the resistor wire with a new one of same quality and resistance. You have to replace it from junction to junction, and it has to be around the same length as the old one. You cannot just splice it in or you will, or could, have the wrong resistance, and start frying coils or ignition components etc...
Hope this helps,
Hope this helps,
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Connecticut
Opus They are sent from my hotmail hope it helps.
The block is a jumper to add a wire in series. In the 1985 it would go to the noise filter on 1986 it goes to tach, according to the diagrams.
The block is a jumper to add a wire in series. In the 1985 it would go to the noise filter on 1986 it goes to tach, according to the diagrams.
Last edited by Dungeon_Master; May 27, 2006 at 04:04 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
Originally Posted by opus
What do I do about these rubber blocks? Can I just cut them open? What actually are they?
Those are are basicly the same as a butt connector, for splicing wires together.
Usually used anywhere three or more wires are joined, or welded together. Also used as a guide to replace fuse links, or resistor wires, with the correct length.
The extra rubber also helps prevent radio interferance, more insulation around the splice, or joint etc..
In your instance to replace the resistor wire, you will need to cut the blocks off of the wires, on each end. Then get a section of resistor wire that is the exact same resistance, size, and length of the old one. Reattach the new resistor wire, in the same manor at the same places with high quality butt connectors.
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Edit:
You can use some shrink tubing, to seal around the butt connectors, to make them water tight, as Bdox suggests.
I normally recomend using solder, and shrink tubing for any wire splice, but not when replacing Fuse links or resistor wire. The heat of the solder can affect the way the fuse link or resistor wire works, or cause them to fail.
Hope this helps,
Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; May 27, 2006 at 04:50 PM.
Posting Guru
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From: Niceville, FL.
The Red/Light Green Stripe that is getting hot is the 1.1 (+/-0.2) Ohm Resistance Wire (Ignition Ballast) to lower the coil voltage in "Run". You could read the resistance between the I1 and I2 terminals of the Ignition Switch in "Off". I think (but not sure) that the rubber "thingy" serves as a cover for the splice between the resistance wire and the standard wire (of same color code) as well as a protective grommet to prevent wire chaffing on the firewall.
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by Piffery1
The Red/Light Green Stripe that is getting hot is the 1.1 (+/-0.2) Ohm Resistance Wire (Ignition Ballast) to lower the coil voltage in "Run". You could read the resistance between the I1 and I2 terminals of the Ignition Switch in "Off".
I guess what I will do is try to find where to get resistor wire. I'll get the exact gauge and length. Then I will cut open the blocks and replace the wire. One of the blocks I dont even know if I can reach.
Are we thinking the resistor wire is on its way out? I never even knew they made resistor wire! What about putting a ceramic resistor in...like days of old? Some other type resistor work?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
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From: Northern California
Originally Posted by opus
I guess what I will do is try to find where to get resistor wire. I'll get the exact gauge and length. Then I will cut open the blocks and replace the wire. One of the blocks I dont even know if I can reach.
Are we thinking the resistor wire is on its way out? I never even knew they made resistor wire! What about putting a ceramic resistor in...like days of old? Some other type resistor work?
Are we thinking the resistor wire is on its way out? I never even knew they made resistor wire! What about putting a ceramic resistor in...like days of old? Some other type resistor work?
Resistance causes heat. Should be warm, hot even normally but not... "Hot enough to catch Fire" etc... More resistance more heat. Think of a lightbulb burning it's brightest, just that millisecond, before it blows as example.
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I wouldn't use anything but the same type of resistance wire as a replacement. Ford still carries these "Coil Resistors" or "ballast resistors" last time I checked.
Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; May 28, 2006 at 12:25 AM.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Montana
Its obviously hotter than it should be.
What should the resistance be?
If I knew how to find the ignition switch and get to it, I would measure resistance. I assume its up high in the steering column?
What should the resistance be?
If I knew how to find the ignition switch and get to it, I would measure resistance. I assume its up high in the steering column?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
Originally Posted by opus
Its obviously hotter than it should be.
What should the resistance be?
If I knew how to find the ignition switch and get to it, I would measure resistance. I assume its up high in the steering column?
What should the resistance be?
If I knew how to find the ignition switch and get to it, I would measure resistance. I assume its up high in the steering column?
Take the shroud off of the steering column, remove instrument cluster bezel, and Instrument cluster for room, and you should be able to see it.
You should see the actuating rod that goes from the lock to the ignition switch once you remove the shroud on the column.
The amount of resistance should be written on the wire in ohms.
Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; May 28, 2006 at 12:27 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Niceville, FL.
Here's an easy way to check resistance (should be 1.1 +/-0.2 Ohms): 1. Ignition switch "Off". 2. Disconnect White/Light blue wire (unplug Ignition Module Connector). 3. Disconnect Red/Light Green wire (unplug coil connector). 4. Short Ohmmeter test leads and "Zero" Ohmmeter on lowest resistance scale. If your Ohmmeter doesn't have a "Zero Adjustment" (many digital Ohmmeters don't), short the test leads and write down the indicated resistance (usually a value of 0.1 to 0.6 Ohms). 5. Measure resistance between end of White/Light Blue wire and end of Red/Light Green Wire. If your meter wasn't "Zeroed" subtract the reading you got with the test leads shorted. If the resistance reading is ok, then suspect the coil or possibly the radio noise capacitor (at coil terminal). I.e., something is drawing too much current through the resistance wire. Also, check to see if any non-stock wiring has been attached to the ignition circuit.
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Senior User
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by Piffery1
Here's an easy way to check resistance (should be 1.1 +/-0.2 Ohms): 1. Ignition switch "Off". 2. Disconnect White/Light blue wire (unplug Ignition Module Connector). 3. Disconnect Red/Light Green wire (unplug coil connector).
Where is the Ignition Module Connector?
And the coil connector would be the plug that contains the +/- wires to the coil (the side that is giving me the issue)?
Posting Guru
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From: Niceville, FL.
Ignition Module is on drivers side fender well (roughly 4"X6"X1" box), has two connectors. The smaller connector has the White/Light Blue (wiring harness) wire. The Red/Light Green wire goes to the Batt (+) coil terminal. PS: Look at the coil itself and make sure the wiring to it is the proper polarity i.e., Red/Light Green to (+) terminal, Dark Green/Yellow Dots to (-) terminal.
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Senior User
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From: Montana
Dont have a ohm meter, so I borrowed on. It zeroed out at 25.
I took the light blue wire off the brain, and the postive wire off the coil.
The ohm meter switch was set to the "1" setting. It jumped up to 175, then if yiou add the 25 from not zeroing properly, you get 200. You were saying it should be 1.1. Does that literally me 1.1, just off of true zero? I am not sure exactly, so I took a pic with my cellphone.
[added] I just tried it with the **** turned to 100. It zeros at 20 and it read 130 + 20 = 150. Maybe that would equate to 1.5? [/added]
I took the light blue wire off the brain, and the postive wire off the coil.
The ohm meter switch was set to the "1" setting. It jumped up to 175, then if yiou add the 25 from not zeroing properly, you get 200. You were saying it should be 1.1. Does that literally me 1.1, just off of true zero? I am not sure exactly, so I took a pic with my cellphone.
[added] I just tried it with the **** turned to 100. It zeros at 20 and it read 130 + 20 = 150. Maybe that would equate to 1.5? [/added]
Last edited by opus; May 29, 2006 at 03:53 PM.