Starter drags
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Starter drags
After I finished changing the plugs,wires, dist module,water sensor,coil,starter,starter relayand positive cable I still have a dragging starter that won't start the van. Oh and a thermostat. What the @### am I missing? The ignition switch? I did a compression test on the motor and decided to tune and fix it up while I was at it. I wish I hadn't done so much, its harder to track this down. Is there a test for the ignition switch? Ive tried several batteries that work fine in my car. I need a clue. Thanks for any responses. Ron
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From: Keweenaw Bay, MI
I don't know what year or engine you have but, on my 88, the ground cable was about 6' long and grounded on a starter bolt. It turned very slow but would start. I changed the ground cable to a larger #2 cable and grounded it to the alternator bracket and that solved the problem. The original ground cable was only about the size of a set of cheap K-Mart jumper cables and would get noticeably hot when cranking the engine.
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Did that. It acted more like it was gonna start, then I turned the key off and the starter kept going. So I figure its gotta be the switch. Ya think? The solenoid relay is new, unless I got it hooked up wrong, but I don't think so. I'm not really mentally challenged, I'm just acting that way. 
Thanks.
Thanks.
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From: Nashville
Wow... someone else just posted a similar problem. First thought is the solenoid, but you say it's new. Could be hooked up wrong but unlikely... could just have a dud. First check the connections against the markings on the solenoid, if that's OK disconnect the small wire going to the key switch and just run a jumper wire from the battery + terminal to the key switch terminal on the solenoid. If it's the switch the starter should not "stick" with your rigged switch, but this would have no bearing on the starter dragging.
Could also have a bum starter. When I replaced my starter after a "death by sticky solenoid" episode, the next two replacements [autozone rebuilds] died within a VERY short period. They looked good from the outside but were just worn out crap inside.
Could also have a bum starter. When I replaced my starter after a "death by sticky solenoid" episode, the next two replacements [autozone rebuilds] died within a VERY short period. They looked good from the outside but were just worn out crap inside.
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ok, this is an 88 econoline,300. The solenoid I bought has 2 small posts besides the two large ones. My original had only the one. Where do the wires go, they all go to the battery side of the solenoid, correct? And one small one to a post? If I connect the negative the starter turns over. Somethin ain't right.
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OK if you don't have a ground from the starter to the frame it shorts the solenoid somehow. My original negative cable grounds on the frame before it grounds on the bottom starter bolt so when I changed the route to the alternator bolt it caused the shorting problem. Now I'mm back to just the dragging starter and no start.
Man am I having fun! What caliber pistol do you use to shoot a ford anyway?
Man am I having fun! What caliber pistol do you use to shoot a ford anyway?
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From: Nashville
Ok... here goes:
The starter "solenoid" [the one by the battery, not on the starter] is just a high current switch [relay] triggered by a 12v signal. One big post goes to the battery +, the other goes to the starter itself. One of the two small terminals [marked "S" for start] connects to the ignition key switch. Turn the key and 12v goes to the small terminal and closes the switch, connecting the two large terminals and sending current to the starter.
As far as the two small terminals on your new part, older vehicles with the Duraspark I and earlier ignitions used the extra terminal [marked "I" for ignition] to pass a full 12v to the ignition coil for a hotter spark at startup while the starter is cranking [and dropping battery voltage]. With the key in the "run" position the ignition coil is fed power via a resistor so it only gets about 10v. During cranking battery voltage drops from the heavy load from the starter, so if fed thru the resistor at that time the coil might not have enough juice to fire properly. On Duraspark II and later ignitions the resistor "bypass" is handeled in the wiring of the key switch, so just ignore the second terminal and don't hook it to anything.
The starter "solenoid" [the one by the battery, not on the starter] is just a high current switch [relay] triggered by a 12v signal. One big post goes to the battery +, the other goes to the starter itself. One of the two small terminals [marked "S" for start] connects to the ignition key switch. Turn the key and 12v goes to the small terminal and closes the switch, connecting the two large terminals and sending current to the starter.
As far as the two small terminals on your new part, older vehicles with the Duraspark I and earlier ignitions used the extra terminal [marked "I" for ignition] to pass a full 12v to the ignition coil for a hotter spark at startup while the starter is cranking [and dropping battery voltage]. With the key in the "run" position the ignition coil is fed power via a resistor so it only gets about 10v. During cranking battery voltage drops from the heavy load from the starter, so if fed thru the resistor at that time the coil might not have enough juice to fire properly. On Duraspark II and later ignitions the resistor "bypass" is handeled in the wiring of the key switch, so just ignore the second terminal and don't hook it to anything.
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Thanks 83 thats what I wanted to know. Its connected correctly. I'm going to clean all my grounds in the morning and maybe replace the cable to the starter, the only one left. At this point I dunno whether to shoot the truck or the mechanic! Thanks to all who responded I do apprieciate it. Ron
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